Norton Econo stone revisited (vid)

HeavyHanded

HeavyHanded

Joined
Jun 4, 2010
Messages
6,642
Hello, finally got around to doing some work with one of the newer mfg Econo stones. Also wanted to show the method for reclaiming grit from these silicon carbide stones that I often recommend, makes for a great minimalist kit. With some careful work a hair whittling edge can be eked out with this method - the norm is a bit less but still capable of tree-topping performance. For EDU is very difficult to beat for the money and time.

Demo'd with a Washboard, can also be done using the coarse side of the stone for an improvised stropping underlayer.

No matter how fast I try to go, can't seem to get it done in under 20 minutes...

Thanks for watching!

[video=youtube_share;DF2Y7Hha0MQ]http://youtu.be/DF2Y7Hha0MQ[/video]
 
It's awfully hard to beat Norton stones for value for the dollar when it comes to sharpening. It's almost all I use anymore if I'm at home. A quick strop on the back of a belt and you're good to go.
 
A good video. Right^^. I keep a twin grit in my truck, a twin grit puck in my pack, one in my shop and a JUM-3 in the house. DM
 
David Martin said:
A good video. Right^^. I keep a twin grit in my truck, a twin grit puck in my pack, one in my shop and a JUM-3 in the house. DM
Click to expand...

I've finally started making wooden boxes for these stones (the paperboard boxes are disintegrating and the coarse side of my Crystalon stone got a chip knocked out of it - the last straw!). Nothing fancy, a few rabbet joints and a lid, should have done that a long time ago.
 
Nice video!

Especially revealing is the rubbing off larger grit & leaving smaller grit stuck on paper. It basically reminds me that a macro operation (sharpening/stropping) has it's limitation to influence micro environment (edge apex). The choice of stones, grits, combined with steel type, hardness & dynamics of the pessure, speed, movement will affect the apex differently.

Thank you for sharing!
 
Chris "Anagarika";14020792 said:
Nice video!

Especially revealing is the rubbing off larger grit & leaving smaller grit stuck on paper. It basically reminds me that a macro operation (sharpening/stropping) has it's limitation to influence micro environment (edge apex). The choice of stones, grits, combined with steel type, hardness & dynamics of the pessure, speed, movement will affect the apex differently.

Thank you for sharing!
Click to expand...


Thanks for watching!

I'm constantly reminded of how seemingly slight details can have large impact.

Working with paper and over a WB, I can see pretty clearly which changes have an effect by observing the swarf deposition on the high points. Over a smooth surface, these changes are nowhere near so visibly apparent, especially if the abrasive is already a darker color.

I've been using this method on paper over the stone, and on a WB for quite some time now, but only recently did I apply the two step process as I use on my Washboard compound. I've always been impressed with how well it worked for a stepped up utility edge, how much more aggressive the reclaimed grit is from the lapidary shop materials. Taking it to another level by removing the larger grit (in combination with a relatively unyielding strop surface) is producing very fine edges - up to and including hair whittling if sufficiently stropped on paper or plain leather after being worked with the abrasive.

It just dawned on me that there had to be fines and maybe they would be left behind the same as a multi-grit compound. I have also used this method on the grit from my diamond jointer stone (manufactured with multiple grades), Flexcut Gold, etc. Nearly all graded and probably 100% of improvised "honing" compounds will have fines to some extent, this method is worth trying on just about any material one has on hand - if it doesn't work it cost nothing to find out.

I cannot vouch for this method on leather or on all papers, but on regular uncoated copy paper or lined writing paper it works very well. It takes an already very useful stone and makes it extremely versatile.
 
With that method I can see improvement on a 'freshly sharpened edge' after about 50 strokes. But on a edge in need of some sharpening it requires 200 strokes or more to bring it back. DM
 
David Martin said:
With that method I can see improvement on a 'freshly sharpened edge' after about 50 strokes. But on a edge in need of some sharpening it requires 200 strokes or more to bring it back. DM
Click to expand...

There are definitely limits. On leather or on paper over the stone is a bit more limiting than on a Washboard as well. If a few minutes are taken to really whip up some grit, careful not to use too much oil when mopping it all up (or wait till the oil migrates into the paper and is not pooled - paper should not have a shine to it), a fairly heavy dose of abrasives can be claimed that will last many, many reconditionings. The paper almost has a light sandy sound when working it.

At that point the biggest limiting factor is how much the paper (or whatever else you're working with) compresses when some force is applied. If you can apply more force without the paper (leather etc) totally collapsing into a rounded profile as the edge passes over, the grit can do a lot more work toward light restoration and actual sharpening, especially within a reasonable number of passes.

On my Washboard I'm using more force initially than I would on the stone or on any other type of strop - that is what allows it to make the larger jumps to a more refined edge or make better repair to a worn edge. After a few passes I settle down to a lower amount of applied force and that keeps the abrasive from biting as deep as it can - a bit more refinement. When I reduce the grit size by wiping it down, I'm finishing with a lighter pass.

On paper over the coarse side of a stone one can still use this method and it works, but one cannot apply quite as much force and not have the paper round up - still far more than one might reasonably use on leather. So a bit less effective and one will have to use lighter pressure and more passes, also the abrasives will not bite as pronounced and the sticky edge will smooth over more rapidly. Still it makes a good scheme as long as one understands what is happening and why. One can also apply this grit to balsa or any of a number of "strop" stand-ins and it works very well. The minerals busted off are very sharp edged and stay that way for quite some time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top