Not another sharpening video 2.0!

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Jun 4, 2010
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Was slow at work and found one more lost soul kicking around the bottom of my gear bag (no wonder its so heavy). I gotta empty this thing out some day!

In place of a stone (salute to J D Wijbenga), I'm using some hardwood with compound and oil (two grades) to re-establish the bevel and refine a bit - knife is a Mora classic 3". Chock full of my usual ramblings. As always, all comments welcome.

Thanks for watching!

[video=youtube;1nxmn-aJwQY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nxmn-aJwQY&feature=youtu.be[/video]

[video=youtube;gfblDsTy-FY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfblDsTy-FY&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
Thanks HH! Why oh why you didn't make this video 6 months ago, a drop of oil was what I missed. Eventually I gave up woodboard because blades kept getting mysterious deep scratches, 5x larger in size than the loaded abrasive. Now, I wondered - maybe the exposed (lapped by abrasive) wood grain with abrasive tip, impaled the blade?
 
Thanks HH! Why oh why you didn't make this video 6 months ago, a drop of oil was what I missed. Eventually I gave up woodboard because blades kept getting mysterious deep scratches, 5x larger in size than the loaded abrasive. Now, I wondered - maybe the exposed (lapped by abrasive) wood grain with abrasive tip, impaled the blade?

This happened to me initially as well. The scribed grooves in the board do a bunch of things - one of which is to allow larger particles somewhere to go. Any time stropping/backhoning on very hard backing, a piece of grit can carve deep groove in bevel, or even create inverted V ding in apex as it passes by. I always wipe or dust off my stones before wrapping with paper, or backhoning on a board, and then the first few passes are very light. Any grit needs to be removed ASAP.

Thanks for watching!
 
w00t! New sharpening vid. That's a very clean edge you ended up with there, HH. While you're sharpening the Mora, how much are you concentrating on laying the bevel flat?
 
w00t! New sharpening vid. That's a very clean edge you ended up with there, HH. While you're sharpening the Mora, how much are you concentrating on laying the bevel flat?

There's probably one or one and a half degrees of convex from the shoulder to the apex. I lay it flat but then concentrate pressure from the shoulder to the apex, shifting as I go. When I'm working on the corners of the board I'm concentrating on the shoulder region - the slurry reaches the apex but doesn't really build up much on the opposite side and I'm working metal off to maintain the geometry. Once I've beat on that for a few I'll shift pressure to the apex region to finish it off/remove the burr. Its a pretty subtle shift but makes it much easier to deal with an acute Scandi grind and not have to use a microbevel. This is how I do it on a hard stone as well. For all intents and purposes its as flat as I can get it with a very small margin.
 
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