Not to start a fight, but....

T

TARFU'D

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Mar 10, 2013
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I went to a Habitat for Humanity Restart store and picked up a no name double bit...nearly the same pattern as a True Temper/Kelly Works Flint Edge 3.5 lb'er...pulled the handle because it was loose and it came out in pieces...no good for this axe but have plans for the handle on other projects :)...so if I can ask a couple of fightin' questions with out startin' the fight here goes...( i apologize in advance if they have been asked before in this forum)

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1) I know hickory is the preferred stock for a new handle, but what else can be used...this axe will not get the use that say an 1880's logger would put it through..I have some teak, rock maple, oak, walnut and cherry in stock I can use...

2) Wedges...this axe came with both a wooden wedge and this steel wedge...should i plan on using the steel wedge also...or just a wooden wedge...and what material would you make the wood wedge out of...see the above listed woods...(the steel wedge is flat on one side and stepped on the other)

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3) A general question...I noticed that when sharpening the axe the steel appeared to be very grainy...with lots of SHARP!!! spurs coming off when using 80 grit belt sander and a very pronounced burr, and filing very quickly with a bastard file...but smoothing quite well when a stone was put to it...is this a steel that has any quality or just a wall hanger?

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Tar

From the photos, the steel looks ok. It's hard to tell if you have a hardened bit. Hard spots in the bit can indicate work hardening from impacts with rock or other hard surfaces. You should be able to tell if you have a hardened bit by filing near the eye and comparing the hardness to the bit steel.

As far as handles go, Osage Orange, Ash, Hickory. Hickory is the easiest and least expensive to find. All make excellent handles when profiled properly.n
 
1) I know hickory is the preferred stock for a new handle, but what else can be used...this axe will not get the use that say an 1880's logger would put it through..I have some teak, rock maple, oak, walnut and cherry in stock I can use...


The cherry I have worked with would not be my first choice. You can pretty much judge the strength of the wood by its weight, so the possibilities are many.
 
I stopped at a mill yesterday to see if they had any hickory for a broad axe I have. They didn't have any but they did have a bunch of walnut, was thinking what a pretty haft it would make
 
I've found a few handmade maple and oak handles around here over the years. Hickory doesn't grow here.
 
Walnut shatters on impact, we broke quite a few rifle stocks in the day playing with them in ROTC. The reason you see hickory is that its tightly grained and doesn't easily split, same for osage orange. Hickory is pretty cheap, it's the most used for mass production.

You don't see the other woods mentioned because they don't put up with the work stress or impact. All the work shaping and finishing, and it's gone pretty quick on the job. As a wall hanger, ok. It's a dress wood, tho, for show, furniture grade doesn't make it work grade. That's why you don't see end use items for sale with it. Can't take the load. Avoid them.
 
I believe the wedges I get from House Handles are poplar. If you leave about 1/4" of the handle sticking out of the top of the eye, you won't need a metal wedge. When you wedge it that little bit sticking out is forced over the top of the eye and you're good to go. Put a good coat of boiled linseed oil on everything wood, wedge included, just before you wedge it and it will be tight. Make the kerf about 2/3rds the depth of the eye.
 
Good to know tirod3, I didn't buy any but was tempted. They had little stick right up to big beautiful live edge slabs, really got the wheels spinning
 
I have read about people using hard maple with good results, take that for what it's worth. I know it is a pain to split when laying up the winter supply. If you get good grain, I think it would be a reasonable alternative. Cherry would be my last choice, it splits like a dream. Good for the fireplace, not for a handle. Fit the handle well, and forget the metal wedge.

In an old axe book I have somewhere, it advised driving the top of the wedge below the top of the handle. The wood of the handle is slightly compressed when the wedge is forced in and will re-expand in the area above wedge, thereby locking it in place. I have done this and IMO it works quite well. Leaving the handle about 1/4" proud above the bit will do the same thing, helping to lock the bit down, just in the other direction.
 
Rock Maple (aka Sugar Maple) should work. I've heard that it's the usual material for locally-made axe handles in Maine and nearby Canada. G-pig makes handles from it.
 
Thanks to all for your insight...in looking at pictures of completed projects i saw many that did not include metal wedges...and just now noticed (after your comments) quite a few being a 1/4" proud of the head...I like the info about the maple...i think either that or teak...one follow up question regarding wedges--is the idea to have a compressable wood for a wedge to ensure a constant pressure from the wedge? If that's the case then a "hard" brittle wood would not be a good idea?

Also i put a file to the socket portion of the head and it appears to a lot harder than the blade edge....

Thanks again for your help...will post pics in the future
 
TARFU'D said:
Also i put a file to the socket portion of the head and it appears to a lot harder than the blade edge....
Click to expand...

If true then that's bass ackwards. The eye should be softer than the bit. Brittle eyes can crack from wedging.

Wrap the bit with a wet rag and heat the eye with a blow torch to anneal it.
 
I used a Dogwood sapling for a maul handle once- ugly as could be but VERY tough.

Interesting to know what different kinds of woods work well. I will have to watch for some shaping tools to try a few from splits.

We have some thorn trees locally- I have yet to identify species but dense and tough for sure but diameter is small at not more that 8" across stump, might work for a hatchet handle.

Bill
 
The kinds of woods used in martial arts weapons should work reasonably well. They are chosen for their strength and impact resistance
 
So I got up this morning had a cup of coffee and started to make a handle for the no name double bit...started with a 30 year old piece of South American Teak that was sitting around a buddy's shop for 20 years before I got it 10 years ago...I've been waiting for a suitable project for this piece of lumber....it started out 2 1/8" x 3" x 46" with some checking evident, but nothing looked too hazardous...considering it's illegal to chop old growth redwoods in my area :) this won't see any hard use...

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Cut it down to size using a table saw and jig saw...don't mind old school...but I'm too old for hewing ALL of it by hand...

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Got out the spokeshave and block plane to rough it out... 1 1/2 hours later...half way there...I was truely amazed at how easily the old wood cut and shaped...love the smell of teak sawdust...:D

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But as the handle is starting to take shape two flaws became readily apparent...one nail hole in the middle of the handle and a deep check in what will be the tenon (?) of the handle...the end that goes into the eye of the head...but as I said in the beginning this won't be a heavily used axe...more of a beginning lesson in handle making...

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have a football game to go to so will take it back up tomorrow....
 
I don't think that the nail hole or the little check will make any difference. Great project. Keep us updated.
 
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