Recommendation? Not your usual pm2 lockstick question.

darth_cholo

darth_cholo

Joined
Mar 29, 2010
Messages
392
Reposting from maintnence forum here for better expertise:

Read all threads about lockstick for pm2. Took apart to take a look. Are these pics of compression tab normal?

I know the blade had some stop ramps on the lock but this doesn't look normal. Looks like it has a bad chip/deformaty.
Q5AmyL3.jpg

eUz3qPA.jpg
 
Sorry you aren't getting a lot of info.
Pretty dead around here recently; every body out enjoying the warm weather.
Post again in winter and watch 'em go after it like a pack of rats.
I just looked down inside one of mine and I couldn't see that area well enough to tell if there was a big ding like that or not.

In this Vid by Nick Shabazz at the 6:41 minute mark you can see a ding like that.
So looks like uxo2 has it right !
I don't take mine apart but maybe this vid will do you some good.
 
Mine are like that. It gets "work hardened" like that and your lockup is more secure. Trying to be positive there... The lockstick can be alleviated by turning the stop pin on mine. I got lazy and don't care no more though.
 
I've done all the tricks except for buffing or sanding. If there was a guranteed way I'd do it. Prolly gonna live with it. Reassembled stick still there.
 
Looks like that dent is a ramp that allows tab to enter and lock I place easier. No such ramp in opposite direction for unlocking.
 
Another question. Maybe requires it's own thread.
After putting back together I created a new problem. Now it seems like when pressing down to unlock with a 3 finger grip my thumb and middle finger push with enough pressure to lock up the pivot so it won't shut. If I place my fingers on the pivot screws or the stop pin screws it closes smoothly. My other compressionick knives don't do this.

This is the grip that applies pressure to pivot washers via the scales.

Is the stop pin and rear standoff the same? Did I mix them up when reassembly?
4C2Hdsf.jpg
 
Last edited:
Wowbagger said:
Sorry you aren't getting a lot of info.
Pretty dead around here recently; every body out enjoying the warm weather.
Post again in winter and watch 'em go after it like a pack of rats.
I just looked down inside one of mine and I couldn't see that area well enough to tell if there was a big ding like that or not.

In this Vid by Nick Shabazz at the 6:41 minute mark you can see a ding like that.
So looks like uxo2 has it right !
I don't take mine apart but maybe this vid will do you some good.
Click to expand...

With abit of break in time the lockstick should go away. Also make sure you aren’t cleaning any black marks on the tang of the knife. That little black mark is steel particles that wore off the lockbar onto the tang they will help prevent lockstick.

Also counterintuitively any oil that gets on the surfaces of the lock that engage eachother tends to cause lockstick.

Never polish or buff the engaging surfaces of a lock. It can lead to lockslip which is way worse than lockstick.

I recommend you just keep using it and the lock will settle in and lockstick should stop eventually.
 
I can get my PM2’s to exhibit the same behavior if I use that grip when operating the compression lock. Not a big deal since my default grip is with thumb and index finger near the pivot / using my middle finger to press the compression lock. The smooth scales on the cruwear PM2 seem a little bit more flexible than normal which could exaggerate the issue.
 
I find using Nao-oil on the locking area will eliminate lock stick.
Mine have been very slight not as bad as some experience.
Only two out of 16 PM2's have shown very slight stick and that was quickly solved with Nano-oil.

Regards,
FK
 
Ricky Spanish said:
I can get my PM2’s to exhibit the same behavior if I use that grip when operating the compression lock. Not a big deal since my default grip is with thumb and index finger near the pivot / using my middle finger to press the compression lock. The smooth scales on the cruwear PM2 seem a little bit more flexible than normal which could exaggerate the issue.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I think you're right. Trying to work it the lockstick while fidgeting with it and surprised that a few times it wouldn't free drop. It seemed random until I anayzyed my grip. Never thought it could be the scale composition.
 
I can't remember where I heard this but I will put my thumb just above the pivot, my index finger on the lock and the rest of my fingers on the clip and the darned thing shuts by gravity.
 
colin.p said:
I can't remember where I heard this but I will put my thumb just above the pivot, my index finger on the lock and the rest of my fingers on the clip and the darned thing shuts by gravity.
Click to expand...

Funny thing is that on my carbon fiber m4 pm2 my grip does not impact the smoothness when closing. I actually don't think this pm2 did either until I dissasembled. That's why I think it's correctable.
 
Ok. Today I went crazy trying to reassemble and get back original opening and closing action and just live with lockstick.
A million micro adjustments to the four pivot and lock pin screws and it's just perfect again. Funny thing is the lickstick went away. Might of been Benchmade blue lube not sure.

Usually I do final micro adjustments with some medium threadlock in the screws. Wonder how long they'll stay in place with nothing. I'd hate to loose a screw.
 
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