Nothin' like resetting a bevel!

S

Shawn7656

Joined
Feb 15, 2012
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I decided while I'm waiting for my girl to get ready to go to the conservation district later that I'd put a nice 18-ishº bevel on one of my knives to pass the time. The Sharpie tells me I have awhile to go before I'll be done.

I noticed that I get an even stroke on almost the whole blade, but the very start of the sharpened edge next to the serrations is barely getting touched. Does anyone have some tips for me on how to combat this?
Thanks in advance!


EDIT: Is it possible that the metal is just thicker farther on down the knife and it's just going to take longer to sharpen it or something? I tried running it on the stone to the point where I'm passed the serrations a bit and it's still barely doing anything :confused:
 
Can't believe I didn't see that thread on my search :o
Thanks OWE, yet again. I noticed that one side is thicker than the other on this knife as well, I assume because of the serrations (it's thicker on the sharpened side, thinner on the other).

While you're here I've an off topic question. I was using my diafold fine and thought "why not?" and put a drop of Hoppes 9 on it. It seemed to make a "slurry" of sorts and made my edge look pretty nice. Is this going to effect the stone in any way though? It seems to have washed off with soap and water fine, but I just want to make sure
 
Shawn7656 said:
Can't believe I didn't see that thread on my search :o
Thanks OWE, yet again. I noticed that one side is thicker than the other on this knife as well, I assume because of the serrations (it's thicker on the sharpened side, thinner on the other).

While you're here I've an off topic question. I was using my diafold fine and thought "why not?" and put a drop of Hoppes 9 on it. It seemed to make a "slurry" of sorts and made my edge look pretty nice. Is this going to effect the stone in any way though? It seems to have washed off with soap and water fine, but I just want to make sure
Click to expand...

Hopefully, that 'slurry' is just the steel swarf from the blade itself. Is it dark/black? If so, that's just the steel swarf; no big deal. Slurry is something you don't want, if it's comprised of diamond abrasive coming off the hone. That won't happen unless pressure is way too heavy, which rips the diamond out of the nickel substrate. So make sure to keep it light.
 
Lol swarf! That's the word I meant. Yes, it's swarf haha. What color would it be if the diamond was coming off? (just for future reference)
 
Unless the diamond is really coming off, you'll likely not see it at all. I'm assuming, being diamond, it's essentially a lot like glass (basically no color). It does come off in tiny amounts, which is expected with use, especially when new. The 'break-in' period of a diamond hone is essentially all about excess diamond scrubbing off. But that's just the stuff that wasn't firmly embedded in the nickel substrate, from the factory. Beyond that, they should hold up for a long time, if used properly.

If you're curious about how much diamond is sloughing off the hone, you might just wipe the surface with a tissue or rag. Then use that to rub against a piece of hardened steel or glass. If it leaves noticeable scratches, chances are it's diamond. Again, I wouldn't worry as long as it's fairly light. Don't panic if the dust does leave some scratches.
 
Well I'm not really pushing too hard, so I should be okay. Thanks for the idea though. I'll use it in the future if needed :)
 
I thought I had heard that. Do you know the reasons behind this? I'm kinda curious as to what it does to it haha
 
I wouldn't imagine that it has any negative effects... It's just a mess and probably unnecessary.
 
You can get essentially the same swarf-suspension effect on the DMT hones, using dish soap & water, as opposed to using oil. Oil is harder to clean up, so there's some risk it'll trap steel particles on the surface (which might eventually rust). It can also trap moisture, salts and anything else on the surface, all of which increase likelihood of rust forming. Very similar to the risks of oiling a dirty blade. The dish soap & water is doubly good, in suspending the swarf, and then in cleaning up afterwards. After cleaning up, I also wipe my DMT hones down with some isopropyl alcohol, to dry up any moisture that might remain after cleaning.
 
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