Now Im Cool

Joined
Jul 3, 2015
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278
:cool: My new BK 9 arrived :thumbup:

Its true ! You cant not have a 9

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Now to etch the logo deeper and go out back and baton some fire wood into kindling :D


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Congrats :).

The 9 is easily my most used Becker knife, its amazingly useful for such a large blade.
 
That condor was getting nicks and rolling the edge easy, just from whittling spruce bark

This 1095 cro-van BK9 edge should hold up nice I hope

I likes the big knifes now that ive been buying playing with different sizes. Good for all this tree work on my property

Glamor shots

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That condor was getting nicks and rolling the edge easy, just from whittling spruce bark

This 1095 cro-van BK9 edge should hold up nice I hope

I likes the big knifes now that ive been buying playing with different sizes. Good for all this tree work on my property

Glamor shots

IMG_0595_zpsawa7mcu4.jpg


IMG_0596_zpsqg4yuure.jpg



.
The edge on the bk9 holds up remarkably well. Mine is 15dps with a 17dps micro bevel and has held it's razor edge during chopping and batoning.
 
Got the logo DC etched deeper with my battery charger, and AC blackened. Now Ready to do some batoning

What is "15dps with a 17dps" ?
 
Got the logo DC etched deeper with my battery charger, and AC blackened. Now Ready to do some batoning

What is "15dps with a 17dps" ?
My edge has been thinned down to 15° per side or 30° inclusive, with a micro bevel of 17° per side. Instead of the 20°+ per side it comes with.
Z2cRIN4.jpg
 
She's a beaut! Congrats, it is a *lovely* piece of steel.

And thank you for confirming my Hudson bay wasn't the only one. Chops amazingly, but I delimbed a stick with maybe a dozen <.3" branches, and discovered the edge *destroyed*. Rolled 180 degrees in some spots, the dents reaching up to 1/8". I chalked it up to the scandi, brought it home, took a file to it for a (less than) microbevel, and haven't used it again yet. Hoping it isn't just uselessly soft.

However, I bought it for the sheath, which fits the 9 nicely :)
 
My edge has been thinned down to 15° per side or 30° inclusive, with a micro bevel of 17° per side. Instead of the 20°+ per side it comes with.
Z2cRIN4.jpg

Bobby,

Did you use one of the Jig type sharpeners on that long BK9? Or just free hand with a stone

I have a 1000 grit ceramic and then a large 240 grit stone.

What grit stone do guys like for touch-up and finish grit on these big wood working knives?


I need to get a large stone maybe a 600 grit? ? ? ?

Maybe one of these Norton stones I can use water with, that arent super expensive ?
 
Bobby,

Did you use one of the Jig type sharpeners on that long BK9? Or just free hand with a stone

I have a 1000 grit ceramic and then a large 240 grit stone.

What grit stone do guys like for touch-up and finish grit on these big wood working knives?


I need to get a large stone maybe a 600 grit? ? ? ?

Maybe one of these Norton stones I can use water with, that arent super expensive ?
I use the work sharp blade grinding attachment to sharpen and touch it up when it needs it.
 
Yup that's what I have, it'll get a knife insanely sharp and give it a nice mirror polish.

I just got finished thinning out the edge on my 16, made a world of difference in cutting performance.

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Here's an example of the finish it puts on a blade. I haven't gotten the leather belt with compound yet but I think when I do it'll get knives over the top sharp and polished.
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I use wet/dry sandpaper for right now.

I usually by it in a variety pack for like $4, with grits from ~400-1500 or so. Then I have some compound I rub on some copy paper that is really "high grit" that I use to finish it off. I don't recall exactly what grit it is at the moment, but I recall doing the micron-grit conversion a while ago, and finding out it was "many thousands" of grit.

I can get my blades to look just like the ones above, and all have whittled hair at some point, so don't think you "have" to get a nice system like that to get good results. By hand can work just fine as well :).
 
I use wet/dry sandpaper for right now.

I usually by it in a variety pack for like $4, with grits from ~400-1500 or so. Then I have some compound I rub on some copy paper that is really "high grit" that I use to finish it off. I don't recall exactly what grit it is at the moment, but I recall doing the micron-grit conversion a while ago, and finding out it was "many thousands" of grit.

I can get my blades to look just like the ones above, and all have whittled hair at some point, so don't think you "have" to get a nice system like that to get good results. By hand can work just fine as well :).
Yup sand paper works great as well, that's what I use for sharpening when traveling for work...I have 120-2500 grit, some glued to paint stirring sticks and on convex blades I use it with a mouse pad.

A machine just cuts the time in half.
 
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