nubatama 24 grit tips

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Jun 11, 2012
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I recently acquired one of these water stones and was curious if those more experienced with these could offer any advice on using these. Wet or dry, pressure, dishing, etc.

I will be regrinding primary grinds mainly, along with tip and belly profiles a bit.....
 
If you are not accustom to these VERY coarse stones I would recommend going slow and doing little tip repairs or flattening out an edge before you attempt anything major. You are going to leave deep scratches that will be difficult to remove and not always the best choice for some tasks.

It would be best used to lap and texture other coarse waterstones along with tip repair. Bevels or bevel faces might not be the best choice.
 
At one time I was REALLY interested in the 24 grit XXC Aratae. I could find very little information about it. Ken's video was one source. A little discussion about it here and there. Jason has given his opinion once or twice. His opinion seems to be mostly not very positive.

I managed to find one video other than Ken's. It's from someone who's rather controversial, so I won't even name names because I don't want to encourage off topic discussion. I'll just post the video so you can watch it.

[video]https://youtu.be/5At3NtNKHFA[/video]

I'll be curious to hear what you think of the Nubatama 24 after you've used it on a few blades.

Brian.
 
I had the 60 grit and was not very happy with it, the 24 however looks like it might have some uses for lapping coarse waterstones. I would never use either one for bevel setting though, they tend to do more damage than good. I used my 60 grit to regrind a heavily damaged Japanese machete then spent an hour grinding out the 60 grit scratches with the 150. It almost destroyed the knife too, put huge scratches through the Shinogi line that luckily came out with the 150 stone but not without some nervous sweating and skilled grinding.
 
So it was the stones fault? Don't you think thats a bit of a stretch........
 
So it was the stones fault? Don't you think thats a bit of a stretch........


Yes, the 60 grit stone put extra large scratches in the blade that took excessive time to remove. I spent extra time using the stone and extra time removing the scratches.

So, in the end I had a very coarse stone that did nothing but cause me extra work.
 
They are extremely coarse. And as you wear them down need lapping to texturize them again. A small piece of another 24 or 60 grit stone works well.

Use little pressure initially. It will seem slow and as you learn the stone you can bear down on it some more until you find the sweet spot where its working but not dishing. Deburr on the stone with some extremely light edge leading strokes, or better yet don't form a big honking burr down that coarse.

Use it WET, running water preferred if you can. On my EP I use lots of soap to help the water cling to the stone.
 
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