o-1 steel stock for forging question

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vannmann

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Feb 19, 2011
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I have run out of scrap stock and for the first time I am looking to purchase 0-1 flat stock online to continue making some larger bowie size knifes...my question is how do you go about determining which size thickness and width stock to purchase? it seems the guys who just cut out and grind a blade have it made when selecting...but I forge my blades and I am getting a headache trying to determine which stock to buy...
So, my hypothetical next few forged blades will be a 6 inch long blade, approximately 2 inch wide blade, with usual bowie knife thickness...what stock would you get?
 
Hi Vannmann,
I use 1/4" x 1.5" stock to pull down a 2" tall Bowie blade. When you reduce the height of the recosso down to around 1.25" tall the 1/4" thickness fattens up a little. The length takes a little playing with but most of the time a hidden tang with a 6" blade might take up to 7" length of stock. But I do not cut the blade off the stock until after I put the pinch in where the tang begins.
Takes time, practice and patients.
Good Luck!!!
 
Hey Vannmann,
I'm not sure where your skill level is, so forgive me if I have mistaken you for a noobie. Is there a reason why you are choosing O1 for forging? What is your HT method? O1 flatbar is usually precision ground and a bit more expensive than the more common forging steels. You can get CR or HR steel bar at 1/4" thick that comes rough mill finish and .030-.050 oversized.... great for forging. I would also suggest anything from 1060 to 1084 and maybe 5160. O1 needs a special attention to take advantage of its full potential. If you are heat treating with a simple forge, 1084 would respond the best. Oh yeah.... the answer to your question... lol...

Like Dave, I would use 1/4" x 1 1/2" stock for a bowie. With the blade length you suggest, I'd start with a 8" long piece (that is for stick/hidden tang, of course)

Welcome to Bladeforums... if you fill out your profile we may be able to find suppliers close to your location, bud.

Rick
 
I have about 500lbs of O1 in larger sizes, 5/8 thick and up to 1.5 varying widths. I posted on the for sale site when I first got it. If you are interested drop me a PM. It is much cheaper than the PG stuff.
 
Oh and O-1 forges really nice. I have made a half dozen blades out of it and I was very happy with it. Though I prefer W-2 for my plain carbon and 1084/15n20 for Damascus.
 
Thanks guys, I have been forging for a few years but recently started knives about a year ago using scrap steel from a local junk yard, and I use a two burner gas forge for most of my work. I am somewhat nieve on the steel to use so using O-1 is not mandatory!
So, I guess I should back up a minute and ask which steel SHOULD I be using for the larger knives I have been forging? I have been making a few very large knives, keeping the hammered steel look.
And thanks for the help.
 
Please don't misunderstand, you can make a good knife with O1 and a two burner forge. You just wouldn't be able to use the steel to its fullest. Without stable soak times and accurate temperatures, it would be like running a Lamborghini(O1) with only 6 of 10 cylinders firing... you would still get from point A to B and nobody would know any different (aside from the sound..lol) but it would not perform like it should. On the otherhand, tweek out a 4-cylinder Mitsubishi(1084) for good performance and it will take on your underpowered Lamborghini. Does that make sense?

The steel should be chosen based on the process you are most comfortable with. You can expand your bubble once you have a good base. If you are just starting out with heat treating in a forge, I urge you to use the steel that best compliments that method. Please read Working the three steel types.
 
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What steel should you be using?? That is a loaded question. I say use the one YOU are most comfortable with. I would rather you become proficient using 1050 than do mediocre work with 10 different steels. Choose a steel, do all the research you can (never ending) then work up a recipe that gives you the best performance for the steel. This can be a quest that could last a lifetime. There are so many great choices out there. You need to decide what you are looking for. There are some aesthetic values to some of the steel, W-2, W-1, and 1095 and 1050 also will give Killer hamons and great performance too. 5160, L6 and 52100 have a proven track record of performance esp for big choppers. O1 is a great steel that requires a bit of careful attention to achieve its full potential. But then again so do some of the others mentioned. There are many others that are just a good as the ones I mentioned so choose the one you can get your hands on the easiest and get good at using that steel. Good luck and let us know if we can help out.
 
There is only so much information I can get from the five or six books I have on the subject, and this was great information you guys gave me. Coming from being a moderator/senior member on an autobody forum, to being a noobie here on the bladeforum was an easy transition...with help like this.
Thanks again.
 
I was looking to order from Kelly Cupples since he has catered to bladesmiths over the years...He doesnt have 1050, but has 1065 through 1095. For the transition from leaf spring steel to one of the above, any recommendations? My hardening process was in the gas forge, triple quench in transmission oil. Temper by torch or coal pit, blues and golden hay as needed for the type of work the blade will do.
Or, should I seek another vendor for one of the other grade steel mentioned?
 
Thanks for the link to Aldo's site. I have also been looking for a japanese/cutler style hammer like the one he is using in his profile pic over on his site..if anyone knows of any members who make them??
 
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