Recommendation? O-1 Tool Steel Heat treatment

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Way-Barney

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Jun 4, 2023
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I want to heat treat some 3mm O-1 pen knife blades in tool wrap to prevent oxidation on holes etc.
Will the steel harden if left in the foil for quench?
If I use fast oil instead of medium oil will it harden?
I see on TTT diagram that 8-9 seconds should beat the nose to less than 800f, how much drag will the foil have on the time?

By my calculations, if considered that foil adds 2mm to thickness still equates to only 5mm thick, am I missing something?
 
10 minute soak at austenitizing temperature won't cause decarb, just watched a video where Larrin Thomas talked about exactly this. Don't be afraid to soak at temp. 01 does need 10 minutes in soak, do not use foil. Might check out Larrins page on how to heat treat 01 over at knife steel nerds.
 
Foil won't work in the quench. As Joe pointed out the decarb in the holes won't be significant. You should be reaming the holes to size after HT anyway.

If you are really worried, use an anti-oxidation coating like Turco, NcClayer, or ATP. Even a wash coat of satanite will help.

I have read of folks who do the HT on small blades and parts in a foil bag and upon taking the bag out of the oven cut the end off and dump the whole lot into a wide quench tank with a screen basket in the bottom (like a fryer basket).
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Foil won't work in the quench. As Joe pointed out the decarb in the holes won't be significant. You should be reaming the holes to size after HT anyway.

If you are really worried, use an anti-oxidation coating like Turco, NcClayer, or ATP. Even a wash coat of satanite will help.

I have read of folks who do the HT on small blades and parts in a foil bag and upon taking the bag out of the oven cut the end off and dump the whole lot into a wide quench tank with a screen basket in the bottom (like a fryer basket).
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Off topic for the thread. But im guessing if its standard practice to ream after hardening people are using carbide reamers? If so any recommendations for those?

I still have a 10v slipjoint i started working on a few months back, but ive been too busy doing kitchen knives to start up on it again. I have the blade drilled reamed and hardened, just sitting on the shelf right now.
 
Blankblank said:
Off topic for the thread. But im guessing if its standard practice to ream after hardening people are using carbide reamers? If so any recommendations for those?
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Don't go cheap. There is a difference in carbide size and Co amount in cheap vs expensive. One good one can work longer than 50 cheap ones.
 
JoeBusic said:
Don't go cheap. There is a difference in carbide size and Co amount in cheap vs expensive. One good one can work longer than 50 cheap ones.
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Good to know.

Yeah, if i remember from larrins article, counterintuitively the larger the carbide size in cemented carbide the tougher it is. I have no idea what size stops being ideal for cutting tools like reamers. But ok. Yeah, ill make sure i get something decent.
 
Blankblank said:
Good to know.

Yeah, if i remember from larrins article, counterintuitively the larger the carbide size in cemented carbide the tougher it is. I have no idea what size stops being ideal for cutting tools like reamers. But ok. Yeah, ill make sure i get something decent.
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With carbides, you don't want tough, you want strong. The smaller they are, the stronger they get. Good ones are at 0.8 microns and the best are at 0.6 microns or less. Cheepos get to several microns or higher with more Co, making them prone to breakage and chipping.
 
Way-Barney said:
what Brand Joe?
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I'm in Eu so I'm using an Italian Burzoni drill bit. It works up to 70HRC and has a grain size of 0.6 microns. 40€ for a 5mm one. I don't use it a lot but it always performs. It's for M398 hardened and titanium hardened.
 
JoeBusic said:
I'm in Eu so I'm using an Italian Burzoni drill bit. It works up to 70HRC and has a grain size of 0.6 microns. 40€ for a 5mm one. I don't use it a lot but it always performs. It's for M398 hardened and titanium hardened.
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I don't want to be a prophet, but one day you will drill the most expensive pin hole :)
Why you don t use cheap masonry drill bits ? Just sharpen them and they will drill hole in any steel ?
 
Natlek said:
I don't want to be a prophet, but one day you will drill the most expensive pin hole :)
Why you don t use cheap masonry drill bits ? Just sharpen them and they will drill hole in any steel ?
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I can't afford cheap. Machines are already giving me a headache. Bits and saws has to be top notch so the cheap machines can work. High carbide hardened steel and hardened titanium is a nightmare to work with. Cheap breaks fast.
 
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