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O-1 vs. A-2 vs D-2

Joined
Nov 26, 2006
Messages
42,898
I'm probably putting WAY too much thought into this decision...but was looking at my next semi-custom and having a hard time choosing between the three.

I've had O-1 and A-2 knives before and both were great. I don't think I've ever used D-2 before but always hear good things about it as well.

I need some opinions here guys. Which would be better and why.
 
These are all based on personal use, not a textbook.

O-1 = least corrosion resistant

A-2 = least edge holding ability

D-2 = most brittle

I believe O-1 to be mid-toughness and edge holding between A2 and D2, A2 to take the keenest edge, and D2 to be the best edge retention.
 
With the D2 you are going to get enough Chromium to actually make it stainless. You probably already know this. A-2 runs around 5 percent if I remember correctly. With D2 I feel that I cannot get it quite as sharp, however I would say the difference is fairly small - 10 to 20 percent. 01 is scary sharp in the ones I have. The D2 is going to be more difficult to sharpen but will hold it's edge longer. Since you have 0-1 and A-2, I would try the D-2, what the hell, you only live once. And, if you dont like it, you can sell or trade it.
 
Hey guys, just a friendly reminder. Try and keep this discussion WS&S related. IE: why do you like D2 for edge retention, A2 for rust prevention, etc and how it pertains to use outdoors.
 
Heat treatment and edge geometry will make a huge difference in any steels performance.



Big Mike
 
The large carbides that form during heat treatment in D2 steel make it somewhat more prone to chipping than the other two steels you mention--especially with a thin edge. If you don't drop below 30 degrees (included) on your edge, this behavior will not show up as much. For a utility knife this geometry is absolutely fine, although thicker than my preference, but this isn't the ideal steel to make a straight razor out of.

D2 does have higher edge retention than O1 and A2 (assuming good heat treat on all) at the same hardness levels, so long as you are talking about edge wear through abrasion or resisting deformation like blunting. However, under impact, its edge retention lags behind these others, as D2's lack of ductility will make it more likely to chip instead of roll. Much like straight razors, you don't tend to see hatchets made out of D2.

The other area where its edge retention will exceed either O1 or A2 has to do with corrosion. While not technically stainless (falls just a little short of the chromium levels to be called such) it seldom rusts if even the barest care is given to it, and this also means that your edge isn't corroding. An O1 knife that will whittle hairs can be left on a desk for a month in non-desert climates and will dull somewhat just do to the oxidation that's taking place. A few swipes will bring it back quickly, though. Where you really see dulling from corrosion is in kitchen applications where lots of acidic cutting mediums are being gone through. All steels suffer from it somewhat, as no steel is truly stainless/rust proof, but D2 would stand well above the other two in such use.

As to O1 versus A2, in my experience most of the difference is in people's heads. I've had excellent and less-than-excellent knives made out of both steels. The quality of the heat treatment and geometry of the blade are always the principle elements that will determine how well a knife performs whatever task you're giving it.

So, in semi-short, don't make D2 your go-to chopper steel, and don't try to take it down to ten-degree-per-side edges, and I think you'll be very happy with it. Oh yes, and diamond/ceramic sharpeners are a good investment if you don't have them already. D2's abrasion resistance makes sharpening on traditional stones a bit of chore.
 
Hey guys, just a friendly reminder. Try and keep this discussion WS&S related. IE: why do you like D2 for edge retention, A2 for rust prevention, etc and how it pertains to use outdoors.

Good point Joe! The knife I have in mind will be a bushcrafter style with a scandi edge.


t1mpani-thanks for that info. It looks like D-2 wouldn't be the best choice for a scandi.
 
No, I wouldn't think so. If you want the stain resistance, S30V would serve just fine in that application---similar "toughness" levels to D2 and will handle finer edge geometry better. Many will shy from it in a woods knife as it's significantly harder to sharpen than O1 for instance in the "I'm lost in the woods and don't have a sharpener but somehow miraculously have my favorite woods knife" scenario, but then so is D2.

For anything other than the corrosion resistance--which I don't mean to imply is a non-issue--you wouldn't notice significant benefits over A2 or O1 I don't think.
 
D2 done right is pretty hard to beat, as in Knives of Alaska and Dozier. These excel for outdoor use knives.
 
Yes they're great knives, but what I said about geometry still holds true. KOA tends to put out really thick edges, and Bob's edges aren't as acute as people think they are. Now his primary grinds are thin thin thin and that's why his knives cut so effortlessly, but he still sticks to edge geometries that suit D2. I have several Dozier skinners and all of them float between 25 and 30 degrees, and his utility or "combat" knives are more robust than that. Actually, a primary grind that drops the edge shoulder down really thin coupled with a hearty edge geometry of even 40 degrees can produce a combination that still slices very well and is extremely durable and long lasting.

Edit to add:
Now that I think of it, my Pro Guide's skinner (think that was the name?) from Bob did actually come to me at about 22 degrees included. That's fine, so long as skinning is absolutely the only thing it does. Again, that kind of geometry, with D2, would not be satisfactory on a bushcrafter that will be used on wood---lateral stresses and torque will just tear the hell out of it.
 
Ive never had any problems with A2s edge retention. Performs like O1 with more corrosion resistance. Ive seen A2 hold an edge longer then some O1 knives.... Usually they are too close to tell, realisticly. A2 is a bit more corrosion resistant though...

Its all in the heat treat. All of those are superb steels when done right. I prefer A2 with O1 being a close second...D2 is good too, but I dont use it much.
 
I really like 01. My Breeden in 01 is great, holds an edge fine (not as well as Queen D2 or Buck s30v, a bit more than 1095), and is very easy to sharpen. Some CrO and a strop, and all good!
 
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