Oak Handles

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Apr 20, 2016
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John and anyone else, how do you finish your oak Handles? I've read about them being very porous and needing a lot of work. Also, curious if you've ever done any flaming on oak handles?
 
Well, there's oak, and then there's oak!
I'll go with the oak.
As for flamers...maybe the wrong forum.
 
For the first year I made knives I only used oak. Used to cut up the pallets out coil stock came in on.
 
Do you just wipe on BLO until the oak won't take anymore? Or do you apply can and wet sand to let the slurry fill the pores before adding the BLO?
 
When I've used pecan, I've finished the scales to 800 then hand rubbing lite coats of TruOil. Once I get about 6 coats on I'll buff with 0000 steel wool after each coat has dried until I get up to 10-12 coats and no more will be absorbed.

I would think wet sanding with a slurry would muddy the grain, but that's an uneducated guess at best.
 
I wipe it on, let it sit a little while, wipe it off, sand, and repeat several times.
 
I would think wet sanding with a slurry would muddy the grain, but that's an uneducated guess at best.

My thoughts as well, but I've read that from numerous bladesmiths who mirror polish their handles. I'm not looking to go that route, I'm just planning on rehandling that parang I posted a while back so it's definitely just for a user and abuser.
 
PnPIH8W.jpg


Torched Oak Goodness. :)

Jeff
 
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Looks good! For those that have torched (not flamed) oak scales, do you do that before shaping them or after? Not sure how much time under the flame is needed and wouldn't want to loosen the glue holding the scales to the blade.
 
Looks good! For those that have torched (not flamed) oak scales, do you do that before shaping them or after? Not sure how much time under the flame is needed and wouldn't want to loosen the glue holding the scales to the blade.
greentrout greentrout
What's the difference between torched and flamed?
 
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