OCD Knife Nerd Needs Bevel Advice.

H

HoosierQ

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Feb 9, 2010
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So my question is: Is 1095 a good steel to take down to 30 degrees inclusive?

I have reprofiled an ESEE-3 in 1095 which is advertised at 58 Rockwell to 30 degrees inclusive. They come 40 degrees from ESEE. I am very pleased with how it turned out. I have DMT Diasharps in all the grits. I used X-Course to reshape, then jumped to Fine, then to X-Fine, and finished it all up on a green compound bench strop. Scary sharp.

So I have other ESEE-3s and 4s. I won't bother with the 5 or any bigger knives I may get from them.

I ask now for a couple of reasons. I know I can do it well. I would want all of the smaller ones 3s and 4s to have the same high performance edge...if it is tough enough. I know ESEE steel is very good and I am sure it'll be fine but...that's where the OCD kicks in.

Now I will say that unlike most of the "ESEE/RAT guys", I am not a hard core batoner...'cause, you know, I got an ax...I got about 10 axes in fact. Nor would I reprofile a big brute of a knife like the 5 or a camp knife like the 6 or their Junglas.

So at any rate, what do you all think about good quality, well heat treated 1095 taken down to 30 degrees inclusive? I am not posting this over on ESEE cause, bless their hearts, they'd all think I was a big old sissy for not using my ESEE-3 to baton through a Buick and then use it as a steak knife and then shave with it and then dig a bomb shelter with it....:D (just kiddding guys).
 
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I see no reason why you couldn't take it that thin. Especially, as you said, if you're not so much interested in 'batoning through a Buick' with it.

I like my edges thinner too. So long as you use it as a true slicer, and not as an axe, pry bar, screwdriver, etc., you should be pleased with an acute bevel on it.
 
Dave

Thanks a lot. Yep, slicing is the thing for me. I suppose whittling too but I am pretty spoiled with my scandis for that. I whittled some white oak with a very sharp Mora (the traditional laminated kind) and I was astonished at how well that geometry cuts wood.

I have a couple of Spydercos in S30V that I want to thin out as well but I am going to practice on the 1095 first before I tackle that stuff. Also those Spyrdcos are so pointy that the continuous change in the distance from spine to stone will be a little challenging.

I've come up with a way to calculate how far to hold the spine over and that worked pretty well with my ESEE-3...and will for my ESEE-4 where about 3 inches of the blade is straight and spine and edge are parallel. Ain't nothing parallel on a Spyderco!

Anyway, thanks Dave. Just needed a little confirmation that I'm not out in left field here.

Quentin
 
Rowen 1095 at 30? Depends on the user and the uses.

Generally speaking 30 degrees on an ESEE-3 is something I would recommend...and even if the edge does not hold up, you can begin beveling at something wider and leave the 30 degree back bevel for better performance.

I took my ESEE-5 down to 20 degrees inclusive and found that it held up pretty well for everything that I would do with a 3. When I started chopping and batoning it became immediately apparent that a small 40 edge bevel with the 20 degree back bevel was a great common ground for everything I do.

I include this example to illustrate how I generally arrive at my edge bevel (through trial and error).

Experiment and figure out your own personal answer to the perfect edge bevel on that knife. That 1095 is EASY to grind/profile/sharpen, and there is enough of it that you will never miss what you grind away in search of your perfect edge.
 
ive got an izula that a machinist at work checked with a digital micrometer and said im down to about 30. because i sharpen most of the guys hunting knives for them and he wanted to see why they were so sharp. all i know is when im done with a knife it will slice, and if i wanna split wood i use an ax. imho batoning is a last ditch emergency use of a knife. and if youre worried about the edge.... i never ruined a razor blade while slicing garlic for the pasta gravy. lol
 
I have an Izula made by Rowen and a RTAK II made by Ontario, both in 1095. I convexed both knives edges and thinned the edges down considerably, and I feel it was a great improvement. I really have been pleased with the edge retention after doing so. I couldn't imagine 30 degrees being an issue. Go for it, and if you do have a problem add a mico bevel. Good Luck.
 
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