Off to a good start

John Katt

John Katt

Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
7,863
Well this is my great idea sure hope it turns out ok LOL

Drilling the hole for the brass rod wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be, I figured drilling close to the surface like I did, would make the drill bit work its way out, so I put a 2nd piece of metal in the vice on the side I was drilling, and it turned out fine

sanding the pieces into a wedge shape was a little tricky, every time I was just a little off, the exposed brass rod would look a little thicker on one end, all the bevels are hollow ground, i'm hoping that starts to pop after I get to the finer grits....

hollow grind tomorrow and HT


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That's an interesting idea. I bet it looks good when finished. Just be sure not to grind too much off or there won't be any stainless to hold the steel in place. How do you plan to keep the brass from sliding out? Epoxy only or peen?
 
Im going to drill 2 small holes on the back of the bolster and grind two flat spots on the brass that lines up with the holes and push a little epoxy in the holes, im hoping it works like a set screw,

Im also planing to put a very very small chamfer on all the edges, brass and steel to give it a little more contrast
 
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Since you are going to grind two small holes, why not put in two 1/16" hidden pins. They shouldn't have to go too far into the brass to keep it in place.
 
Just use hard silver solder. Do it before installing the bolsters, then clean them up for installation. That way there will be no gaps or spaces at all.....and nothing will ever move.

Also, On your bolsters, after installing and peening the rivets, solder them in place with low temp silver solder ( eg. - Stay-Brite).
 
bladsmth said:
Just use hard silver solder. Do it before installing the bolsters, then clean them up for installation
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I just watched a video were bob loveless silver soldered a knuckle guard onto one of his knives, so last Sunday I did a little practice soldering and it turned out really well, however I'm still undecided whether or not if I am going to grind off the round part of the brass rod or leave it sticking up, if the solder flows up onto the round part im not sure how I would get it off with out damaging the brass

If there is a method for removing the solder and preserving the brass....I'm game
 
I think you will not be happy leaving the bulge exposed. Grinding it flush will make a nice inlaid brass feature.
 
I agree with Stacy that you should grind it flush all around. Otherwise the bulge/bump would get in the way when you're trying to use the knife and may be uncomfortable. From a purely aesthetics angle, I think it would just look better all around.
 
Another day on this knife and every thing went smooth as glass, I was really sweating during the HT, I figured one of the bolsters was going to crack at the thin spot when I threw it into the quench, but they held up, grinding the blade also went great, so great in fact that I am starting to get a little worried...knock on wood ;0)

I decided to take Stacy's advice on the silver solder thing, and I am glad I did, that couldn't have gone better


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That is turning out nice so far. I think the grinding flat idea was the right choice. Can't wait to see the finished product.
 
Next step is to sand the tang/ricasso dead flat and the bolsters flat on the bottom. Taper the rivet holes a tiny amount if you have a 2-3° tapered reamer, or just leave them as is. Rivet the bolsters on solidly, using rivet stock of the same metal as the bolsters ( or brass to match the inlay). Before cleaning up the extra rivet material, flux and soft silver solder the bolster/tang joint all the way around. Clean up the excess solder, file the rivets flush, sand and shape the knife as planned..........This will give you a knife without the gaps and dark lines showing at the bolsters and ricasso ( as well as prevent moisture and dirt from getting in those places).

What metal are the bolsters?
 
Glad to see you venturing outside the box. Not many of us out here, but boy do we have fun. ;)
Keep it up! :thumbup:
 
Stacy

The knife and bolsters are made from 1978 chevy motor home springs, 5160 I hope, they are 7/16 thick and I pound them down to .250 and finish them out at around .225 to .200, the dark lines around the last two knives were intentional, after sanding completely flat, I then went around the edges with 600 grit and very slightly chamfered the edges, I was looking for the same effect as body lines on a car

Patrice

I will surely try and shake things up a bit LOL
 
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OK, but while body lines might have a function on a car, they don't have a good function at the bolster junction on a knife.
I would also not use tail fins on the handle scales:)

Anything that channels moisture under the bolster....like a chamfered groove, can be a source of problems later.

A method of getting a line at the bolster/tang junction would be to put a liner of contrasting metal there. If you put .030 to .060 brass between the two, it will match the other brass, and provide the lines you want. The joint can still be soft soldered and the line will be flawless when sanded out.
 
bladsmth said:
OK, but while body lines might have a function on a car, they don't have a good function at the bolster junction on a knife. I would also not use tail fins on the handle scales:)
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That tail fin idea of yours might be a good one, show up with a pocket full of these to a cadillac swap meet and I just might leave with a pocket full of cash....or I just might simply be asked to leave LOL

bolsters and scales are epoxied on, probably wont be anything getting under there anytime soon ;0)

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I really like the brass rod concept and you executed it very well. Came out much better than I was visualizing from your description in the other thread. You might have made only a few knives but you OBVIOUSLY have ample shop time in other disciplines. It shows in your work. I vote for even more contrast on that bolster. How about copper pins? If you're gonna be a bear might as well be a grizzly.........
 
Horsewright said:
If you're gonna be a bear might as well be a grizzly.........
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I don't know if I will ever make it to grizzly status....probably more like that annoying little squirrel setting in the tree next to you during deer season, that just wont shut up ;0)


I decided to go with steel pins, I want the brass to be the only thing you look at when looking at the knife, i'm also thinking about a translucent black finish on the oak handle, that should set off the brass pins nicely
 
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