oil finish added to stabilized wood?

NickWheeler

NickWheeler

Joined
Dec 3, 1999
Messages
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I know I know, I'm one of the guys always raving about having Mike at WSSI stabilize my wood, but none of that has changed.

I am wondering though, of your take on adding some kind of finish to it (after the knife is done, other than said finish). I had never tried, and have always been happy with the results of just hand-rubbing or buffing.

BUT, a gun-smith suggested I rub in some concoction. It's Tongue oil, a tad bit of Linseed oil, and just a dab of Paint Thinner.

I sanded down a knife handled in some stabilized spalted maple burl (to 320) and have for the last 3 days added aggressively rubbed in coats of this gunk (drying a day between coats). I rub it down with 0000 steel wool between coats, and then a quick going over with a clean cotton rag before really rubbing this stuff into the wood.

It seems to be accepting the finish, and adding a lot of depth to the figure in the wood.

Thoughts? Suggestions? I'm curious what to do with it after I get about 10 coats of this stuff built up like he suggested.

I'm going to have Terrill take a digital photo of this piece of junk as soon as it's done, so you guys can see what I'm talking about soon.

Thanks
smile.gif
,
Nick

[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 03-25-2001).]
 
Nick, I use Tru oil from Birch wood Casey on stabilized woods from WSSI. It adds extra lustre and seals better. One of my test knives belongs to my wife. It is WSSI stabil Spalted Maple and sees the dish washer once in a while. Until I tru-oiled it shrinkage was taking its toll. Just a couple coats helped alot. Looking forward to seeing your so called peice of junk with the 10 coat shiny handle. Bruce B
 
Nick,I usually wipe on a couple of coats of Watco Danish oil treatment at the end,as like you, I find that it seems to add depth and luster.

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MIKE
 
Hmmm...does anything soak into the stabilized woods? I would think that this is not what you would want to use since it is a polymerizing oil finish. It will leave a glossy top coat. Does it actually stick well to the stabilized wood? I would think that what george said would be better...buff it out. If you wanted it to look deeper, perhaps apply a hard wax that would not leave finger prints.

Jeff Jenness
 
Jeff,on Watco,if you choose to go by the instructions,I do,you apply a coat,leave on for 45 min.,and wipe off,apply 2nd coat,leave for 30 min.,wipe off.I polish after the last step.

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MIKE
 
The reason that Watco Danish oil tells you that is because it is a varnish-oil blend and cannot be applied in thick coats, otherwise you will get a very clouded finish (this does not happen with a wiping varnish). So you must wipe off the excess that does not soak into the wood...in your case stabilized wood. That is why I wondered if stabilized wood soaks up anything.

I thought the process of stabilization fills all the cellulose channels with resins (acrylic)...and this looks to be true from the samples I have. They are more like a block of plastic than wood and smell like acrylic when cut on a band saw. If that's the case, wouldn't wax do the same job with a lot less work since it would seem that this is a very thin top coat...but I could be wrong, that is why I was asking. As a follow up to my other questions: How durable have you found this to be?

If you try the wax, use one that has carnauba wax which will give a very hard, fingerprint resistant finish. Usually a good floor wax is sufficient.

Jeff Jenness
 
Nick, I play with rifle stocks a good bit and often use an oil finish. It will fill the pores and then form a coating over the wood. The bad part is that it can be marred from use. The good part is that you just add a little more and it is back to new.

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It's never too late to have a happy childhood!
Terrill Hoffman Knife Photography photpoint
 
jeff,yes,stabilized wood can absorb liquids,you can stand a block in some ,lets say water and the level will drop.The thing is,it wont retain the water,remove the block and set it on a dry surface and it will form a small puddle around it as the water drains back out.As to how much does Watco penetrate? I dont know,I only use it to enhance the grain,etc.Sorry I cant be of more help.

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MIKE
 
Thanks Mike!

I've gotta try that. Have you ever heard what caused the shrinkage that Bruce was experiencing? If Tru oil stopped it, it seems it had to be the water, since the heat would still be present, sealed or not.

Sorry for being so curious, I like learning as much as I can and BF has many, many folks with more experience than I have. The more I learn the better I can control the processes.

Thanks again, I learned something good today.

Jeff
 
Jeff,I am not sure of the exact reason for the shrinkage,your best bet would be to call WSSI and ask Mike,1-800=301-9774,he would be able to tell you for sure.Hope this helps.
 
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