Oil or water?

H

Hytekrednek

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Jun 8, 2017
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I have some new Arkansas stones, black, translucent, and hard, and am looking for opinions on their use. I know they are traditionally used with a light oil "oil stone", but I use water on nearly all of my other sharpening stones. Can water be used with these super fine Arkansas stones and still get the same result? Or, is it best to only use oil on these?

Thanks for your time and advise.
 
Use soapy water. You may find the loading characteristic of the stones to be acceptable. I dislike using oil. Have to clean up after splatter, degrease the bench, wash your hands and consume a half roll of paper towels in the process.
 
The one possible downside to using water or soapy water, is that the water evaporates. If you're in a dry climate like I am, it'll evaporate pretty fast (or very fast at times, in under a minute). When that happens, the stone will load up & clog very quickly as well. That clogging happens faster on the finer Ark stones, like the black hard and translucent hard. For this reason primarily, I've chosen to use oil on such stones. A lighter, thinner grade of mineral oil is best for that, and it'll also clean up the easiest as well.

If you're OK with frequent reapplication of water to keep the surface wet, that's fine. But for me, I've preferred to minimize the interruption to my rhythm in sharpening, once I get going with it. Still need to add a little oil periodically and/or wipe the dirty oil off the stone, but that doesn't happen near as frequently as if I were using water in my arid environment. And secondarily, because my environment is so dry, using the mineral oil won't leave my hands nearly as dried out either, which is always an issue with my hands anyway, and more so if it also includes dish soap, which strips all the oils out of the skin. Sharpening isn't as much fun with splits & cracks in my fingertips, and I have to work and do everything I can, to keep them at bay.

Use what works for you. ;)


David
 
My vote is oil all the way.

In my experience water will work, soapy water is better, but the stone will glaze over time and the surface will not cut as nicely and require lapping to restore it.

With oil it might glaze over time but will work longer with less chance of loading or glazing. A thin film is all you need.

When I'm using my Arkansas stones I start off with my India or Crystalon stones, so the entire process is oil based. I don't like going back and forth water to oil.
 
I use oil on mine and I don't find it a Big mess to clean up. Its nothing. I think oil gives the better edge. DM
 
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I'm not sure everyone distinguishes the difference between "olistones" like Norton India, etc., and Arkansas stones. I've tried water, soapy water, Simple Green, Mineral Oil, and a lighter oil (Baby Oil, or Honing Oil) on "oilstones"... but not Arkansas stones. The lighter oil works best IME. But, like adamlau said, can be messier than the others, so there's a tradeoff... but I think the difference in the edge is noticeable enough to stick with the light oil. Simple Green worked pretty well, as did the soapy water, but there was a difference... (basically, if you can, try both and see if you like the outcome). I would avoid the heavier mineral oil (the kind found in most drugstores)... it reduces the cutting ability of the stone, and doesn't really help keeping the stone clean.

All that being said, (and I bring it up because not everyone distinguishes between "oilstones" and Arkansas stones), there's a guy on YT that uses Arkansas stones quite a bit, and he switched from oil to soapy water, and in his experience, soapy water gives a better result... so probably there's a difference between them and other oilstones. Here's where he talks about it...


... (he takes a bit to get used to watching, but he actually does a good job). Bottom line, if you can, try both, and see what works best for you... I'm not sure there's a "right" answer.
 
I have no Arkansas stones, so no experience. I use oil now on my diamonds stones too - the "Norton sharpening stone oil" brand. Recently I came across this video:
. This is about a special diamond stone lapping fluid (just a thinner mineral oil version maybe?). It is not cheap. Anybody experience with this?
 
Haven't used it, but in looking at the MSDS for the Trend lapping fluid, they classify it as combination of a couple varieties of 'isoparaffinic hydrocarbon', with other info suggesting something like a petroleum solvent. Flashpoint at 144°F, for example, and warnings to avoid breathing the vapors or fumes. I'd previously assumed maybe it was detergent-based (like dish soap, etc), but apparently not.

Maybe not as 'oily' as mineral oil, and likely thinner/lighter in consistency. Maybe less likely to accumulate in the stone over the long run. But if it is something like a petroleum solvent, with the associated risks/hazards of such (fumes, flammability/volatility/etc), I'd personally stick with just plain old mineral oil.


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Haven't used it, but in looking at the MSDS for the Trend lapping fluid, they classify it as combination of a couple varieties of 'isoparaffinic hydrocarbon', with other info suggesting something like a petroleum solvent. Flashpoint at 144°F, for example, and warnings to avoid breathing the vapors or fumes. I'd previously assumed maybe it was detergent-based (like dish soap, etc), but apparently not.

Maybe not as 'oily' as mineral oil, and likely thinner/lighter in consistency. Maybe less likely to accumulate in the stone over the long run. But if it is something like a petroleum solvent, with the associated risks/hazards of such (fumes, flammability/volatility/etc), I'd personally stick with just plain old mineral oil.


David
Click to expand...

I agree David - I think the Norton oil I use is already a bit thinner/lighter than regular mineral oil?! I have to try that Baby oil that Martin likes!
 
I use an additive in the water I use to sharpen called Hone Rite Gold. I have seen the Trend blue stuff, but it is expensive, plus, what I am using works great.
Thanks for the help and advise guys. Keep it coming. I used my black arkansas stone with water once, and it shows light signs of loading or glossing over, that is why I am here asking. I do not want to ruin this nice and pricey stone.
 
awestib said:
I agree David - I think the Norton oil I use is already a bit thinner/lighter than regular mineral oil?! I have to try that Baby oil that Martin likes!
Click to expand...

The Norton oil is my favorite thus far. Seems to be lighter than anything else I've used. I've tried baby oil, and it was OK in terms of the viscosity; the scent of it makes my sinuses crazy though, and I smell it for HOURS after I'm done using it. I've also got some mineral oil I picked up at a restaurant supply store, intended for lube use in food service equipment (it's obviously food-safe). It's also pretty good and clean and completely odorless; maybe not quite as light as the Norton oil. And lately, I've been relying on the inexpensive pharmacy-grade (laxative) stuff when I want to really soak a stone with oil, such as for my SiC and aluminum oxide hardware store stones (Norton Economy, Sears, ACE, etc). They drink the stuff like crazy, so they get the less-expensive grade. The heavier viscosity of the laxative stuff also helps in minimizing the 'drainage' out of these very porous stones (and 'minimizing drainage' is ironic, when you consider what this oil is made for... :D ).

I save the 'best stuff' (Norton oil) for use on my diamond hones and hard Ark stones (black hard & translucent), as I don't have to dump a lot of it on the hone, instead using just a few drops at a time. A little goes a long way, in that case, and the small and somewhat pricey can of it lasts a lot longer this way. ;)


David
 
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My grandpa used to used diesel fuel on his oil stones. Had a mason jar of it on his work bench and would dip a rag in it and wipe it on his oil stones. I have always used honing oil or wd 40
 
Experimented with several fluids, it's mineral oil by a mile with Arkansas stones.
 
I like the thicker mineral oil. As it doesn't dissipate quickly off the stone. Baby oil is fine as well but it leaves a girlie odor on a knife. DM
 
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I have been using glycerin and I'm very happy with the results. Sometimes I'll add a few drops of water to thin it a bit. It keeps fine Arkansas and even ceramic stones from loading, and lubricates diamond stones nicely, too.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Haven't used it, but in looking at the MSDS for the Trend lapping fluid, they classify it as combination of a couple varieties of 'isoparaffinic hydrocarbon', with other info suggesting something like a petroleum solvent.
Click to expand...

3. COMPOSITION / INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Chemical family: Petroleum Distillate.
Ingredient Name CAS No. REACH
(EINECS)
Reg. No.
Wt (%) Health
(Class)
Risk Phrase
(R. No.)
Isoparaffinic
Hydrocarbon
64742-47-8 265-149-8 40% - 70% Xn R65
Isoparaffinic
Hydrocarbon
64742-48-9 265-150-3 20% - 50% Xn R65


ICP solvent
  • 1 Product Result

  • | Match Criteria: CAS Number, Related Cas Number



  • Synonym: Hydrotreated light distillate (petroleum)

    • CAS Number: 64742-47-8

    • Kerosene
    • WD-40 strikes again...:thumbsup:
 
I have only tried baby oil on my DMT as I can't find any normal mineral oil spoken of, down here.
My knives do smell girlie :D
 
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I use Norton Honing oil on my Arkansas stones. I have tried other mineral oils, but Norton seems to give the best results for me. Almost as though it was intended for that purpose. Imagine that.
 
what do you guys prefer to use with diamond sharpeners? I have used them dry and with water that has the HoneRite additive in it. I much prefer the water mixture. I have not used oil with diamond sharpeners before. What do you use and why?
 
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