OK, this is NOT easy

Joined
Dec 5, 2000
Messages
1,361
Well, I got the Midway metal magic cloth. Now, as best I can figure, i either got a cloth that isn't very "juicy", or the Black T on my commander is extra thick, because this stuff is a BITCH to get off! I dunno, Sarah... I spent the better part of an hour rubbing the logo side of the blade, bearing down, and I've only gotten about 90% of it "acceptible". I've even used a buffer wheel (attached to a drill press, so I get a nice fast spin), which helps, but the blade gets damn hot if you hold it against the wheel for too long (damn friction!)

Sooooo, I guess I'm kinda locked into it now, as most of one side is gray (which DOES look pretty cool), but it sure isn't as easy as I thought it was gonna be.
 
Chris:

Let me add some motivational value to your project. Let's just pretend that once you complete this project, you get to pick any of EE's latest custom run. ;) Let's say a new 8 or six with blk bolsters or whatever.

Get rubbing brother, there's a new custom waiting in the wings!:D
Seriously, I hope it turns out and can't wait to see the final results.
 
I'll rub til my fingers hurt! It'll be worth it when it's done - no pain no gain, right? I just hope I don't cut the tips of my fingers off as I'm rubbing down near the edge... that'd suck, and I'd feel too stupid to go to the hospital...
 
Chris,
From one MA. resident to another all I can say is: I feel your pain Bro:D But seriously let us know how it works out because I have a badly abused CQC-7B i would like to try it on
 
OK, well, it's probably about as done as it's going to get, unless I try to polish it. Took about two hours, total. My fingers are SORE. The buffer did more work than I did. I got the removal started with the cloth, then took it over to the buffer for the rest. It's interesting, because you can see the grain of the blade's metal now, which is a bit accentuated, because I couldn't get all the black off. So, as an experiment, it worked OK - I was just hoping for total removal of the black T, you know - the gunmetal coloring IS very nice.

I'll send a scan or two to John - could you post 'em for me, bro?

I'm thinking I got a dried out cloth from Midway. But, since I've never gotten one before, I don't know, for sure. Sarah just said it was so easy to do - must have been the damn cloth...
 
Here are Chris' pictures:

7818687-16ce-01F400BB-.jpg

7818710-ba54-01F400C2-.jpg


Not bad looking at all. :D
 
Thanks, John! LOL - the scans make it look a bit like the knife has Strider's tigerstripe pattern...

Ray - yep, 'ol #29 gets a face lift.
 
On production knives like Emersons and Microtechs, when they mass produce the blades, there will be grind marks left from the process. Whether they coat it with black ti, stonewash, etc, all these things do are hide the grind marks. Thats why a custom made knife shouldnt have that on it.

Not trying to drum up business, but if anyone wants their coating off and a nice sating or high polish blade, or even bead blast, please feel free to contact me.

david
 
Actually, Bandit - I kinda like the grind marks. :D I was talking about what's left of the black T - it looks almost like tigerstripes (it's more noticable on the scans. "Live", the blade just looks a little dirty).
 
Chris,
great job on the commander, Once your fingers get better and you want more practice I'll send you a Mach1 to work on :)
Seriously Though it does look good

Wolfmann601,
Great Job on yours also, I tried the dremel on a BM CQC-7 and now I know why I don't do that for a living :D
 
Thanks, JB! :D I'm considering getting mugged for another Midway cloth, just to see if, now that 99.9% of the black is gone, I can get the rest with a "fresh" cloth...

I'm too anal-compulsive. It looks fine as it is, but I need it to be as perfect as possible, ya know?
 
It has given me utter respect for Knife Makers. Besides the obvious dangers of using a Dremel on a BLADE, the patience and attention to detail is so far beyond my ability that I would be a BROKEN Man before I ever finished my first knife. It has taken me three weeks to restore the hi-polish finish on my 98 SPECWAR. I have removed every scratch, and restored it to the way it must have looked when it left Ernie's shop. I will NEVER try that again!!!!:( :eek: ;)
 
VERMONSTER, the original owner of my 98 SPECWAR was kind enough to tell me that when he purchased it, he talked with Derek. The very Hi-polished blade was one of only just a few Specwar production pieces that Ernie put a hi-polish to. Matt says this was one of the very first Production 98 Specwar's and maybe one of a very low number (4?). I have spent hours using a DREMEL to remove the light scratches and a Rubber polishing wheel/point, Jeweler's rouge, Metal polish and felt to bring the Blade back to "like new". the finish is amazing!!!!
Thanks for the help, and I was gonna trade this????????wolf
 
Hey Guys:

I've been following your post regarding the polishing of you EKI blades. I originally started with Eric Blair's sandpaper method:

Satin Commander Project

Once I had taken off all the scratched satin finish, I moved onto the Dremel polishing kit. By using the polishing wax and pin wheels included, the job was a snap. Now my 2000 Commander sports a high polished 154 CM blade.The whole project took about 2 hrs.I only wish I had a digital camera to show you the end product. I think you guys would be proud. Thanx for all the help.

Chris: Go invest in a polishing kit. You'd be surprised how easy it is. All this from a guy who can't hammer a nail straight.;)
 
:D

OK - I'll go look into one. But, I DO like the gunmetal finish the blade has now... just wish it wasn't so "dirty" looking. And, I think I should invest in a sharpener before I get the polishing kit. I dulled my commander pretty good this weekend, so now I have the fun job of figuring out how to sharpen a recurve... :(
 
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