Okay Maybe I need one of these

K

kanochris

Joined
Nov 3, 2002
Messages
66
Man after looking around at cold steels and a few others .....Maybe I need one of these....I am gonna be in the bush in S.E.A. for a while .Got bowies .but they are not the best choppers.and Axs don't really work to well in that place.Of course a cane knive was devloped for this kind of use. But these can be kinda long.
and ya really cain't do much eles with a cane knive but..... well CUT Cane...lol
I will be doing some camp duty type of stuff .and if I have to skining .I will be doing alot of climbing and some repeling .and it might have to be deployed for self defence . As well as bush wacking .
couple of questions .Handles ? how hard are they to change? are these full tang?
Type of steels ? hardness on the c scale?I will be doing some prying and opening up cases.if the need arises .
So is this the blade for me ???? I know it is a tuff question .Kinda like asking if a set of speakers sound good LOL.And what models would you all recommend. Have anybody seen these in a combat unit other than the Gurks? With this type of blade it seems that it would take a while to ""master it"" after useing a more Western/American type of blade
in closeing FMS forgive my spelling lol
Thanks to eveyone
Regards
Chris
 
Haven't been to S.E.A. Have done a three year tour on Guam though. Have seen a little jungle. Would imagine a khuk would do quite well in that environment. If size (too large) is a consideration you might want to try a BAS(British Army Service) model. About 15" in length and not too heavy. Mine chops real well and can be used for kitchen chores and would work as a skinner/boning knife. May not do all jobs well but it will work.
As far as handles go, you can have a full tang model if you want or the standard hidden tang. Either one is plenty strong. The handles on a BAS are typically Water Buffalo Horn. This might be the better material in a jungle environment as opposed to wood. Different properties to each and different feel. Like them both. This model as most others includes a Karda(small knife) and a Chakmak which is a blunt karda like tool which can be used as a burnisher for sharpening the blade edge or as a striker for starting a fire. Actually many of the blades are too hard in the sweet spot to sharpen with the chakmak. Can be around 60 RC! These blades are differentially tempered to provide toughness and hold a good edge.
 
Ang Khola. Prybar, hammer, hatchet, chopper, Draw knife, wire cutter, digging tool. the 15 incher is more compact and slightly lighter than the 18" AK which weighs in at about two pounds. They can take the abuse.

Keith
 
Either a 15" BAS or a 16.5" WWII would work quite well. My WWII is one of my favorite blades. If you'll be in a wet environment you may want to consider bluing the blade, it won't stop rust but it will keep it from getting too bad. You can get a bottle of the stuff at Wal-Mart for $4 or so, it's very easy to do. Let's see, your other questions:

Handles: They aren't difficult to change if you're handy, but I doubt it'll be necessary. I've bought several as blems that already have cracks started and they've held up fine. The horn handles can be sanded for a better grip. Wood is usually fairly grippy as is, and different handle treatments can improve that further.

Tang: They are what's called a rat-tail or through-tang. They're very strong, and hold up to even heavy duty prying well. The full tang models are called chiruwa style khukuris and they're nearly indestructible. I honestly don't think it could be done without the help of power equipment or a hacksaw. If you click on the 'HI 18" Ang Khola review' link in my signature line you can see some pics and commentary I have on some very abusive testing.

Steel: They are forged from truck springs, usually from a Mercedes Benz. I believe this is 5160. They're differentially hardened with the spine and tang left dead soft. This allows them to be amazingly tough. Prying is a non-issue, unless you're using a 20' pipe or a hydraulic press.

As for mastering the blade, I don't find there's any trick to it. They balance well, better than their large size would indicate. Kumar's blades especially just feel right in my hands. If you have any other questions you may want to check out the HI site or the khukuri FAQ. They're both linked in Bill Martino's signature. Also, welcome to the Cantina!
 
Just being picky here:

All H.I.'s are full tang except for some of the carved handles ( dragon, snow lion, monkey - that kind is partial tang, but even they are solid enough for hard use if drilled and pinned through the tang about an inch behind the bolster ).

Some are full tang, with exposed tang - upper and lower straps like on a handgun grip are visible with handle slabs riveted on ( "panna butta" is what the H.I. kamis call a khukuri that is "riveted through" ).

Some are full tang but hidden tang. Rat-tail is what this type is referred to by some. It's really more akin to the tang on a large file, just longer but about as thick. It is quite sturdy. The tang continues under the handle and out through the brass buttcap, the smaller eye-shaped keeper, and it is then peened over to hold it in place. Some have referred to the H.I. hidden tang as being a "kangaroo tail" or a "Gator/Crocodile tail".

Either way,it's one whale of a tale!

Must be time for my medication.
 
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