Okay...this is tempting...

Harbor Freight sells a 110 lb Russian made anvil for $79 and they even stock them here in Lubbock. If there is a store near you, it would save you a bunch on shipping.

Matt
 
I hadn't seen a decent anvil over there, though...

The thing that caught my eye on this one is that it specifically states that it's cast steel. I was led to believe that the ones that Harbor Freight stocks are iron, and not hardened for diddly.

Has that been your experience, or had you just noticed that they had them? I have no qualms in going to HF, would love to, but I have to think that there might be an advantage to steel vs. iron.

??
 
Actually, I just hit the website, and they list a 110 Cast Steel from Central Forge for $99.99.

Has anybody taken a look at this one? How's the face?
 
I wish I had seen this post a coupla hours ago. I just went by HF today, and was even right over there. Picked up my first sander(yes, it's a 1"x30", and YES, I already know this isnt' gonna cut it very long if I'm serious about knives. I don't need this speech again). But anyways, I was right over there, and even glanced at the 110, but didn't give the face a good look. Was looking at the 6# one for doing fine/jewelry work out of curiousity. That one seemed it'd definitely do what I wanted, but I didn't really look at the 110. Sorry. I might make it down there agian sometime in next week, but someone else will probalby have posted an answer by then.
 
Had a cast steel 'el cheapo' and it was just that. It rang fine but was softer than a RR track. A 1" ball bearing dropped on its top was like dropping it onto a soft bed, it even dented the anvil.

If you have a decent heavy piece of RR rail, they can be made into really serviceable anvils for bladesmithing by welding a cut piece of road grader blade to the top. Welding it on doesn't seem to bother the hardness. The bottom portion of grader blade is replaced when worn, can be found in junk yards and is pretty hard steel, maybe 4140 or similar. An anvil with a hard top is a pleasure to work on.
 
For knife making I never really understood the point in using a regular anvil. The way they're built, with a large portion having nothing under it, like the part where the hardy hole is, it seems like most of the hammer's impact would be wasted. Wouldn't a big solid chunk of steel thats heat treatable be better for knife forging? I know thats not as easy to come by as anvils but it just looks like it would be alot more efficient. Just some babble from a future steel pounder.
 
I have a 60# HF cast job. The face is not smooth and is way too forgiving. RR track might serve you better unless you are ready to step up. The difference is kinda spendy, but how serious are we? Think I have a line on a 150#Peter Wright, will know more next week. Guess it just depends on how much pounding a fella has in mind. LOL Terry
 
Blackie and L6,

In answer to your questions, I'll offer my personal thoughts on why an "Anvil-Shaped Anvil" is slightly more attractive to me than a solid chunk of steel.

First off, Blackboogers, I'm not certain of the specific properties of 4140, but it seems to me that anything that can be ground flat, and then face-hardened, should work as an anvil. This is to say, it works in the same way that anything reasonably heavy that you can tie a rope around, will work as a boat anchor. You can use it, but it may not be the best design for the job.

Bridging to L6Steel's question, the anvil has developed that shape because it incorporates a lot of surfaces and functionality that a blacksmith or bladesmith might need while forging a blade. The face is wide, but not so wide that it just sucks all of the heat out of the work before you can get in a bit of work. The horn allows you to work on curves and rounds, without having to worry about moving to another anvil. The hardy and pritchel holes serve both to allow for punching and the use of attachments--which, again, add to the functionality of the anvil without necessitating having a half-dozen clunky hunks of steel around your forge (the same logic led to the evolution of the swageblock, I would guess).

Certainly, I've seen other types of anvils, and I'm told by such experts as Don Fogg (via his website, of course--I should be SO LUCKY as to be "tight" with Mr. Fogg) that they work as well or better for their purposes as anything Peter Wright or MouseHole ever dreamt of. Me, I do other blacksmithing than just bladework, so I think it would be useful to have all of the various shapes right there. If you have access to big ole' chunk of something with a flat surface, and you think it'll work for you, then by all means, forge ahead (pun intended). I have a railroad track, which has served me well enough thusfar, but I find that it's a pain that it's not wider, it has no good curved horn, and lacks a hole to do piercing work on. Thus, my desire for something else.

My main concern was to see if anyone had experienced anything untoward, such as hitting a piece, and cracking the anvil face or some similar misadventure. I think I may swing by HF tomorrow, and see what they have to offer. I need to pick up a table saw, anyway...

:D
 
Blackboogers:

There are people here in the Blacksmith Guild using 4140 for dies on their power hammers. They last for years.

If you have access to a big chunk, and its hardened, it should make a pretty fair anvil for knives. Give it a try.

For Bladesmithing, a regular shaped anvil isn't really needed.
 
Hey guys, this is just my two cents worth. The japanese have been making swords for hundreds of years on basically blocks of hardened steel. SO yes a block of hardenable steel would work fine. I aquired a Peter Wright 121 lb from my father in law and it is great. The hardie and pritchel holes do come in handy, for fullering and other fun things, and the horn works real well for drawing out tangs after you get the initial shoulders started. Previously I used a railroad track, but the old anvil is a real pleasure to use. In my opinion a good anvil is hard to beat. ( sorry for the pun)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top