Old 110 Sheath

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Mar 3, 2006
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I have a couple of vintage sheaths for my two dot 110's and I am curious what others use to restore them. Some of the black has worn down to the tan leather base, otherwise the sheaths are in good condition. On a similar note, what sort of leather treatment (if any) should I apply to prevent cracking. All suggestions gratefully welcomed.
 
I use a leather conditioner, I find it in the auto care section of any auto parts store. Works great!
 
A collector of vintage military leather introduced me to Pecard's Leather Dressing many years ago. This buddy has passed away now, but he traded items with the British Pattern Room, the Smithsonian, USMC Museum, NRA collection, etc. He knew his military leather (and rifles) - everything I've used the Pecard's on, some years ago, are in mint condition. Pecards makes several products, I have a couple of tubs which the product is thick and wax like; the liquid in the tin bottles is for baseball gloves. OH
 
Use leather boot touch up in black to cover up the tan leather spots,then a good coating of sno seal ,and put it in the oven for 25 minutes on low heat,that will allow the leather to open up and draw the sealant into the poures.
 
I have a Buck leather 110 sheath from my first 110 I got when they first came out.I just found it....forgot about it long ago.It was in rough shape....I just spryed it real well with ballistall(you can probably p/u a cannister at a gun show! Works real well !I'm going to show it to Joe at the Blade 2015 Show!
Jim
 
I have a Buck leather 110 sheath from my first 110 I got when they first came out.I just found it....forgot about it long ago.It was in rough shape....I just spryed it real well with ballistall(you can probably p/u a cannister at a gun show! Works real well !I'm going to show it to Joe at the Blade 2015 Show!
Jim

Stop me if I am wrong, but didn't Buck use Ballistall for factory lube?
 
Stop me if I am wrong, but didn't Buck use Ballistall for factory lube?

No, Use Hoppes Weathergaurd for a good waterproof lube on a lock back knife. If you need something heavier, use tenpoints rail/trigger lube. A tiny dot will do it. This is a great lube to use on folding knives. I apply barely a bead onto the pivot area with a couple drops of Hoppes Weathergaurd. This will provide a clean lube that doesn't collect lint. Some people use this to lubricate the frames of 1911's. It is a durable heavy oil that works wonders.
http://www.basspro.com/TenPoint-Rail/Trigger-Lube/product/39416/

To fix old leather, you need a wax product called Atsko Sno-Seal. It is a beeswax product, and is good for all leather. It will absorb into the pores of the leather, both plumping it up as well as waterproofing the leather. It will slightly darken the leather, but it is well worth treating the leather at least once. You can also use this product to plump up and restore old leather washers on hidden tang knives such as the Kabar 1217, or Cattaraugus 225Q (etc.). It works to waterproof the tang. This product costs 8$ plus shipping off of their website:
http://www.atsko.com/sno-seal-wax-8-oz-jar/
To apply, smear the product liberally and as evenly onto the leather as you can with a clean sock or lint free rag. Use a blow drier on medium-high heat and heat the product until it liquefies to a workable state. Spread the product evenly and work it into the leather. Then, allow the product to solidify for fifteen-twenty seconds and wipe/buff away excess with your sock or rag. You may need two or three applications for the desired result. This product will slightly darken the leather you use it on. It is a great product and I have used it for some time now.
Hope this helps. I know my stuff. ;)
 
Thanks everyone for the excellent advice! I am leaning toward the Atsko wax as it does get wet on the coast here. I'll try some of the suggestions on covering the bald spots too. :)
 
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