Old Grandsfors bruk

Chesterfieldfox

Chesterfieldfox

Joined
Oct 1, 2015
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484
After finding that old Iltis Ox Head axe (another thread) and rehanging it "twice" lol, i decided to hit up a couple antique stores in downtown Winnipeg and what did i find but this old Grandsfors axe head. It has the single crown with the GBA logo on one side and a 2-1/2 stamped on the other. It looks in descent shape. I think its an old boys axe? It has a diferent over all shape compared to my small forest axe. Anyone know anthing more about this old head?
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Yea it looks like you are right, cool not that old but still a good find. I think i will get Scandinavian forest axe handle to rehang it with. Thanks for the info
 
Steve Tall said:
That looks like what Gransfors called the "Chain Saw Pattern" in this document said to be from around 1980 (photo from wdmn):

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What do you think this axe's main use would be, judging from the shape i would guess a splitting axe? Maybe limbing axe? Anyone have idea? Thanks for the help
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Great, thanks Steve Tall. T'is what i will use it for. I just gave it a nice convex edge and look forward to hanging it.
 
Might just be the picture angle but is the grind is off a little on one side?

Easy fix if it is but that will make a nice axe. it might look nice on a straight handle as well.

I appreciate Steve dredging up the picture. I'd missed wdmn's posting of it until then.
 
It is off to one side, the last owner took off a bit much. I tried evening it out and will eventually. Its slow going with the small stone i have.
 
Cteve said:
It is off to one side, the last owner took off a bit much. I tried evening it out and will eventually. Its slow going with the small stone i have.
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It's not an "antique" by some standards but totally worth the effort. That era of GBA has a following out there. They don't have the cheeks guys look for but they are hard in return. The ones I've worked on would take a longer time with a stone than a file. I'd spend the time on it. Then again, I have a penchant for stuff that needs some love to be great.

If you want it to look new then buy new, right? :thumbsup:
 
Cteve said:
Anyone know anthing more about this old head?
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FWIW the ca 1980s Gransfors ad is a bit sketchy (pun intended) to make a positive id.



That page is also pretty lean on descriptions. IDK whether your axe is a Gransfors "chain saw pattern" or not, but it got me curious as to what they had in mind for that designation. They did say "Wide Maul". Would that have anything to do with driving wedges? I associate wedges with chainsaws. Wedges are useful and sometimes necessary with chainsaw work. If I take a tree down with a chainsaw, I just keep going with it for limbing and bucking. I looked for further information but alas, Google was not my friend.

I looked up the Garant CHS17526 shown earlier to see if they had anything to say about their "chain saw axe" that makes it different from another type axe. Not really:




In my internet wanderings I found an article comparing the Garant CHS17526 and a GB Scandinavian Forest Ax. I thought the top view comparison of the heads interesting:



Just found this:
300Six said:
. . . The current Ochsenkopf (Ox head!) listing for profile to the left is 'European model' and head on right as 'Chainsaw' model. . .

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Which led to this:




Bob
 
la hache à ébrancher you present has not the same pattern as the one named in the title, wich is more likely Montréal (note the accent) pattern
 
flexo said:
la hache à ébrancher you present has not the same pattern as the one named in the title, wich is more likely Montréal (note the accent) pattern
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It may be, either way I will be hanging it in a couple weeks when the store gets some GFB replacement handles in, luckily they had them on order already. I plan on using the Scandinavian Forrest axe handle, does anyone ave an opinion if I should go larger? Say to 31" instead of the Scandinavians 25" length?
I will likely be using it to limb and likely light chopping at camp.
 
flexo said:
la hache à ébrancher you present has not the same pattern as the one named in the title, wich is more likely Montréal (note the accent) pattern
Click to expand...

The "hache à ébrancher" (Garant's version of a "Chain Saw Axe") was shown above because it seems to give a clue about the intended purpose of what's called a "Chain Saw Axe", not because it looks similar to Gransfors version of a "Chain Saw Axe". I agree they don't look the same.

And yes, perhaps it is Gransfors "Montreal" pattern, instead. To me, the Gransfors Montreal pattern looked like it had a more-flared toe and heel than the OP's axe, but I could be wrong. Also, the "wide maul" feature of Gransfors "Chain Saw Axe" doesn't seem to be present in the later profile photo of the OP's axe, which could tip the scales in favor of it being a Montreal pattern. (The photo of the OxHead "chain-saw axe" looks like it could have a wider poll.)
 
Chainsaw axe is the current Canuck description for American Boys Axe or the older Canadian term; Pulpwood Axe. They're often in around 2 lb these days and meant to clear brush and branches and drive hard plastic or aluminum wedges for smooth operation of a chainsaw.
 
Cteve said:
Got the new handle today, she swings just fine.
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Looks good! I like the pattern especially - it seems to have a fair amount of sharp bit and and a decent sized poll. Your handle choice seems stylistically appropriate to it as well.

Before you use it too much, that space there in the pollward section of the shoulder can be filled by shaping a piece of hickory to it.
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Carefully tamp it in there and trim from the outside with a sharp knife/coping saw. Cut it off a couple of millimeters shy of flush and then judiciously file it down. If you use a sander to shape the hickory wedge, then use a file or knife to groove it up a little before your install.

Wrap the eraser end of a pencil with a piece of fine sandpaper and smooth. I think the technical term is use "A Graphite Scribbly" to get it "Right Skookum" ;)

I'm sure your wedge was well driven and seated soundly - a little filler of the same/similar hardness as the handle material knocked into the back might keep it from working itself towards the space during use - because it will if there is nothing to stop it. You can also feed it BLO through the end grain there.

My apologies for unsolicited advice Chesterfieldfox Chesterfieldfox - it really is a good looking axe! :thumbsup:
 
Agent_H said:
Looks good! I like the pattern especially - it seems to have a fair amount of sharp bit and and a decent sized poll. Your handle choice seems stylistically appropriate to it as well.

Before you use it too much, that space there in the pollward section of the shoulder can be filled by shaping a piece of hickory to it.
aPPlrwf.jpg

Carefully tamp it in there and trim from the outside with a sharp knife/coping saw. Cut it off a couple of millimeters shy of flush and then judiciously file it down. If you use a sander to shape the hickory wedge, then use a file or knife to groove it up a little before your install.

Wrap the eraser end of a pencil with a piece of fine sandpaper and smooth. I think the technical term is use "A Graphite Scribbly" to get it "Right Skookum" ;)

I'm sure your wedge was well driven and seated soundly - a little filler of the same/similar hardness as the handle material knocked into the back might keep it from working itself towards the space during use - because it will if there is nothing to stop it. You can also feed it BLO through the end grain there.

My apologies for unsolicited advice Chesterfieldfox Chesterfieldfox - it really is a good looking axe! :thumbsup:
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Hey thanks for the advise, i will defiantly take it. This is only my second time re hafting so any advise is welcome.
 
Cteve said:
Hey thanks for the advise, i will defiantly take it. This is only my second time re hafting so any advise is welcome.
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I did what I described on a Made in West Germany boy's axe. The eyes on those are a little larger than the American standard you can buy - like some of the Made in Sweden heads. That one got used until my brother took a shine to it. So, on your axe, that space looks small enough that you can cut/fold down tight a couple piece of paper to create a template of sorts. I have dead handles so it makes it easy to cannibalize them for material.

If you are reasonably careful, you can run a pick down there, remove any of your softer wedge to clear it out before you start the "shim" and match it pretty close to the space. Removing the wedge outside of the harder wood in the eye will keep you from knocking up or loosening your wedge job. Also gives your hardwood wedge a similar surface to press against. Blunt the end of it fairly flat/rounded before you drive it in.

I gave my father a full-size Craftsman 36" rehang with that rear shim also. Two elk camps and numerous "adult boys" having fun later, it only needs edge work and BLO. Cteve, you don't have to do anything just because I am thinking aloud about your axe.

Montreal style patterns look pretty nice on straight handles too :thumbsup:
 
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