Old Hickory handle rework advice

Z

Zorobabel

Joined
Nov 6, 2019
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27
I'm not happy with the lack of finger guard on my newly aquired Old Hickory boning knife. So I drilled the rivets and removed the scales today.
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I want to use a hacksaw on the black marker lines, followed by some filing. Optionally I'd like to reduce weight (pink lines).
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The new scales would extend beyond the tang forming a finger guard. Extending the scales beyond the tang in the middle section is optional.
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What do you think? How else would you do it? I want the finger guard for potential stabbing and for securing the knife to the sheath.

If I go this route, I'd like to use epoxy to keep moisture from the tang. Would forcing a patina on the tang make sense?
 
I sometimes wonder by myself in mountains where mountain lions and black bears are present. If my maneuvering would fail and I get attacked, I want the newspapers to say: "he died with a capable knife in his hand".
Otherwise I bone pork and chicken :).
 
Unfortunately I can't turn up any photos at the moment, but an alternative kind of guard is a piece of bent steel, aluminum, brass, etc. under the scale on one side, with one of the rivets passing through it. It creates a guard "tab" coming off the knife sort of like the "nagel" guard on medieval German "Bauernwehr" knives. Like below, except instead of a bolster with the guard coming out of it, imagine an L-shaped metal tab affixed by the rivet under the scale and projecting out above the top of it. Of course, the scale has to have the underside that is mated against the guard carved away somewhat to fit.

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FortyTwoBlades said:
Unfortunately I can't turn up any photos at the moment, but an alternative kind of guard is a piece of bent steel, aluminum, brass, etc. under the scale on one side, with one of the rivets passing through it. It creates a guard "tab" coming off the knife sort of like the "nagel" guard on medieval German "Bauernwehr" knives. Like below, except instead of a bolster with the guard coming out of it, imagine an L-shaped metal tab affixed by the rivet under the scale and projecting out above the top of it. Of course, the scale has to have the underside that is mated against the guard carved away somewhat to fit.

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Click to expand...
Thank you! I had a similar idea where the tab would not project above the scale, but extend bellow it.
 
You can use a file to shape it. It's a kitchen knife and the file should be hard enough to cut it. DM
 
Heck yeah. I'm lovin' it! The thing I especially like about side guards like that is they don't interfere with using the base of the blade.
 
Instead of hex nuts you might consider using self-clinching fasteners. They provide a round look while still having an anti-rotation feature to them. Not a lot of hardware stores have 'em, but they're easy to find online in various sizes and shank lengths.
 
Thanks, I'm not planning on using the hardware in the photos. I will epoxy everything, and use some kind of fastener/rivet that will not undermine the epoxy seal. Open to ideas, as I haven't done this before.
Not sure if I should take advantage of the third hole in the tang or not.
 
If using epoxy then something like corby bolts would be a good choice, then, since that'd be a permanent mounting option. I like using self-clinching fasteners and machine screws since it allows me to disassemble the knife easily, and if any loosening ever occurs I can just tighten 'em back down without issue.
 
Not really. And if you're at all concerned you can just spray the tang with a layer or two of clear lacquer before installing the scales.
 
I've been working on the tang with the hacksaw, drilling and filing; not easy with the only power tool being a handheld drill. The hardened portion of the tang is problematic (I've read about masonry bits and spot annealing with a nail-no luck so far with the nail). Wondering if I should remove that little bit in the upper right corner (with the arrow).
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Anneal the section of the tang that you are cutting out.

Here's how I did it:

Suspended the section of blade and tang that i didn't want annealed in a 5 gallon bucket of water.
Using a MAPP gas torch, I heated it till it glowed red (or as hot as I could get it).
Let it cool on its own. When cool to touch, I repeated the heating and cooling.

I was then able to easily drill holes in the tang for the scales.

The blade i did this on was on Ontario Field knife, same company that makes Old Hickory.
 
Alternatively you can buy a solid carbide bit and a little cutting fluid and you'll be able to get through it without affecting the heat treatment. Just be careful when using solid carbide to make sure you don't put lateral pressure on the bit and go slow so you don't snap the bit.
 
I thought I'd share my progress:
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Amazingly, I didn't crack the wood on my first ever peening endeavor; I used a brake rotor as an anvil. Epoxied and peened:
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After initial sanding (may become final :))
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For sealing the wood slabs, I've got mineral oil, lip balm, candles, superglue. I'm thinking mineral oil soak, then superglue (especially near the blade).
 
Wood doesn't contain mineral oil naturally. It will soften the wood.
If using an oil, use a polymerizing oil like boiled linseed oil. I would just spray it with clear lacquer, or wax it with paste wax or neutral shoe polish.
Why is there epoxy between the scales? Aren't those the original handles? I don't see that you ground the handle profile down.
 
Mineral oil is a non-drying oil and will remain oily-feeling after application. I'd just finish sanding it down and then give it a light paste wax buff.
 
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