Old Hickory knives for the Outdoors

SpookyPistolero

SpookyPistolero

Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
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Does anyone here use an Old Hickory blade for the outdoors? I've seen some talk about how easily take an edge, but it's been many years since I've even handled one. I've also seen some folks on another board mention them as a good general purpose blade for the outdoors.

So who's got one that they use outside the kitchen? Are the blades too thin to be worth much in the way of heavy use?

Specifically to Fiddleback, I found your old posts about turning the Old Hickory skinner into a Nessmuck type blade, but the pictures were all expired. I was wondering if you would mind reposting a pic, and giving a little review of how well you felt it would do in the woods in general? The idea was very appealing.

It's not like I don't already have enough blades around for this purpose, but I thought they would be fun, or at least something new to try with the Nessmuk conversion project.

Thanks much-
 
Also, anyone got a good source on the skinner model? I'm not necessarily looking for the cheapest price down to the penny, but something less expensive and reliable.
 
Not 1 minute before re-checking this thread I was right on that website adding one to my cart! Thanks for the link!
 
Old Hickory knives are great, I used to carry one of their bigger ones as an outdoors knife, cleaned a LOT of catfish with that knife!
 
Cheapest price I've found for OH Skinners:

http://www.bladematrix.tv/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=33231

(I'm not affiliated with BM what so ever, if the link is innapropriate, I apologize.)

I've done a good many of these now. I buy either the skinner, or one of the butcher knives. The butcher knives are thin, being ~0.050" thick. GREAT slicing machines those are!! But the skinner is more appropriate for a Nessmuk IMO. Its ~0.090" thick, perfect for a Nessmuk. They're 1095 steel, so you can't do much better than that! I fully convex mine with the edge coming right down to the handle (no ricasso) so you can get a LOT of leverage when carving wood. This design is a favorite of mine, and I think its perfectly suited for what a belt knife should be used for in the wilderness. I get rid of that god awful burnt hickory handle, and put on something that is more appealing to the knife lover in me.

Pics, you say.

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http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=435373

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=456679
 

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Thanks a lot Fiddleback! I haven't been a huge fan of the Nessmuk style in the past, but I really enjoy the looks of those. I am going to order a couple and try my hand at the conversion, one for me and one for my stepdad. A have very few real tools to work with, but I'm hoping a dremel will be enough. This will also be my first attempt at metal work on a blade, or handle work. Looks like a good place to get started though!
 
SpookyPistolero said:
Thanks a lot Fiddleback! I haven't been a huge fan of the Nessmuk style in the past, but I really enjoy the looks of those. I am going to order a couple and try my hand at the conversion, one for me and one for my stepdad. A have very few real tools to work with, but I'm hoping a dremel will be enough. This will also be my first attempt at metal work on a blade, or handle work. Looks like a good place to get started though!
Click to expand...

Fantastic. What tools do you have? Are you into natural or synthetic handle material. Making your own knife is richly rewarding. If you have questions e-mail me at aproy@charter.net. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Remember, you're gonna want a sheath too! A loner knife's only home is the kitchen drawyer, and you'll want a complete rig. (I use a OH nessie I made with walnut and solid brass pins ALL the time. They're powerful cutters.)
 
Other than the dremel, I really just have the 'standard' tools a person accumulates over time. Some files laying around, etc. I might go to harbor freight and see if there is a really cheap grinder though, that I might be able to keep and use at my parents house. I'd like something for smoothing/grinding out new blades.

I'd really be upset if I had to put a synthetic handle on something in the Nessmuk style, so I'll be trying wood out. I know squat about making handles, and haven't even read much on it. That will be the more 'involved' part for me. I'll be doing lots of searches around here!

I actually just finished a couple of sheaths last week, my firsts! One was for my mora and the other a hatchet sheath. I was fairly happy with them, but very excited to try again. This will give me a good opportunity to do so, and I've found a good leather shop where I can get the materials.

Where do you get your wood for the handles at? Do you just cut some blocks that are approximately of the right size, then slowly carve it out/check size/carve again, etc? How they heck do you work the rivets or pins to hold the handles in? Do they screw? Is that work fairly do-able with a dremel (instead of a press)?

Oh, with the metal work, how do you put the convex edge on it? Can you take the blade after a normal sharpening, then use the same sharpening technique but with the sandpaper on a mousepad? (I read that somehwere here).

Sorry for the barrage of questions! I really appreciate your offer to be open for help!

Oh, PS - Have you ever seen/used the little 3.5" Old Hickory paring knife? I saw one when hunting for the skinner model and wondered if it was worth picking up for $5. I'd rather not spend the cash, though, if the blade is too flimsy.
 
cool :) a while ago I found an old hickory butchers knife at a garage sale, maybe I'll try reshaping it :) I need to get a grinder now too.

this is cool because many knives used outdoors were in fact modified kitchen knives a long time ago .
 
SpookyPistolero said:
Other than the dremel, I really just have the 'standard' tools a person accumulates over time. Some files laying around, etc. I might go to harbor freight and see if there is a really cheap grinder though, that I might be able to keep and use at my parents house. I'd like something for smoothing/grinding out new blades.

I'd really be upset if I had to put a synthetic handle on something in the Nessmuk style, so I'll be trying wood out. I know squat about making handles, and haven't even read much on it. That will be the more 'involved' part for me. I'll be doing lots of searches around here!

I actually just finished a couple of sheaths last week, my firsts! One was for my mora and the other a hatchet sheath. I was fairly happy with them, but very excited to try again. This will give me a good opportunity to do so, and I've found a good leather shop where I can get the materials.

Where do you get your wood for the handles at? Do you just cut some blocks that are approximately of the right size, then slowly carve it out/check size/carve again, etc? How they heck do you work the rivets or pins to hold the handles in? Do they screw? Is that work fairly do-able with a dremel (instead of a press)?

Oh, with the metal work, how do you put the convex edge on it? Can you take the blade after a normal sharpening, then use the same sharpening technique but with the sandpaper on a mousepad? (I read that somehwere here).

Sorry for the barrage of questions! I really appreciate your offer to be open for help!

Oh, PS - Have you ever seen/used the little 3.5" Old Hickory paring knife? I saw one when hunting for the skinner model and wondered if it was worth picking up for $5. I'd rather not spend the cash, though, if the blade is too flimsy.
Click to expand...

Check out oupa's tutorial. Its a goodun. Talks you through the whole process!

Honestly, you may need a drill press, or at least access to one. A true verticle hole is critical for attaching scales. I'm sure its possible without one, but I don't know how to do a perfect verticle hole without one. There is the possibility that you could leave on the original scales and just mod (reshape) that area. Get a drill press. At HF you can get them for ~40 bucks. I'd try to save up a little more and get one a little better.
 
Might not be appropriate here. e-mail me.
 
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