Important to use a steel with a hardening response for standard blades. This means that if heated to non-magnetic and rapidly cooled the internal structure will change. Low carbon steels will not harden enough from quenching, this includes most common stainless steels. A simple solution for high quality blades is to buy a quality known steel, shape and send out for heat treat, 440c is a standard stainless, 1085, 5160 are good carbon steels to start on.
For purposes of using unknown/junkyard/backyard steel a forge really helps. You can use a torch to heat up a sample past magnetic, quench, and see if the steel has become brittle enough to snap. If the steel hardens, you can make a blade but there will be many unknown factors and heat treat will be based off of experimentation and testing.
Another issue is that most smaller size modern leafspring is nitrogen steel of some type, very tough stuff but does not attain hardness in a traditional manner. I am rambling, look up junkyard steel if recycling is of interest, for a "perfect as it can be" type of blade, buy steel and pay a heat treater. Good luck