Old vs New 110 for blade upgrade.

Pack Rat

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Have any of you seen any differences such as a loose blade or maybe a wide gap between blade and the back spring after a blade upgrade? Or any other weirdness.

Just got in a no dot 110 and the blade sux for a collectable (price was right).. So was thinking about it for a blade upgrade versus a new one.

But if there are enough major differences in old versus new, I would rather send a newer one that would more match current tooling, or whatever...
 
Just a suggestion...I've seen older blades for sale and at auction...get an older blade to match the frame's age and send it to Leroy for the work. Good luck, Preston
 
...Rodent...If the bolsters and scales are in good shape but , as you say, the blade is "toast"...I'd send it in for an upgrade. If there might be some small difference in the thickness between the old blade and the new blade...that will be taken up with the fitting of the new blade. I put a newer 110 blade on an old 2 rivet job that one of my kids-in-law brought over last week and it fits like it was made for it...no wobble, spaces or other icky's at all...LOL...He loves it so I'm happy too...Like preston said though...If ya want it to look like it did you can find an older knife and salvage the blade if it's in good shape too .:D
 
Pack Rat:

The older 110s such as yours have ever so slightly thinner blades than do more current production 110s. This being the case, the rocker bar is also slightly thinner; as is the rear bolster spacer/spring holder. Also, there was no blade pivot bushing before 1980(.110..). This being said, the blade pivot pin may or may not have the same O.D. as current production. This will depend on wheter the I.D. of the bushing has the same I.D. as the hole in the blade without the bushing.
...The diameters are the same Buck_110...The thickness difference in the blades amounts to about .0025 on a side which gets taken up when the blade is fitted to the handle and the pivot pin is compressed to fit...All together it works out pretty well...:)
 
DarrylS:

What about the pivot pin/blade bushing diameters? Out to ten thous:eek: ! Your mic is better than mine. I want to get a new digital job myself, but they aint exactly cheap.

With the new blade being a tad thicker, can you see light beaming through where the rocker bar engages the blade in the open and locked position?


...I saw virtually no light at all between the bolster/liners and the lockbar and the blade. You actually do need some clearance for smooth operation of the knife. I've found that most of the lockbars I've looked closely at are actually a few thousandths thinner. Might be due to being made of different stock and the tolerances of that stock. The diameter of the bushing didn't matter at all because the blade I replaced didn't have one. The newer one I put on had a bushing. The hole diameter of the old blade was approximately .002 larger than the bushing I.D. and I attribute that to wear. Steel being a whole lot harder than brass and 440C at that, it wears hard and that sure wasn't a lot of wear. Looking at the hole diameter in the bolsters themselves the hole was approx. .131 after pressing the old pin out....I used .125 brass and compressing the new one in completely filled the voids and made a super nice fit and appearance after buffing. As to the measurements...I have an old Starrett digital 12 inch X&Y axis optical comparator that one of my sons-in-law seems to believe has become his ( he actually uses it more than I would down here )...LOL...He moved it down from Wisconsin and it's been in his garage ever since...Sometimes he even lets me use it...:o
 
DarrlyS:

I was actually thinking about just pressing the pivot pin out and getting a Chicago pin and screw setup and replacing it with that. I was going to slightly countersink the front bolsters so they sit perfectly flush. In this manner, the knife can be taken apart to the point that the frame remains in tact, but the rocker bar could be swung completely around on its rivet to allow a thorough cleaning. And with the rocker bar swung up, spring replacement would be a breeze as well. Of course this would require a flat head Chicago pin and screw set up.

...You could sure do that Buck_110...I believe some of the auto conversions actually have that feature in their method of conversion. I play with mods just to get them back to what they were...or in the case of a few that I've done...to make 'em what I like. The limit to what you can do is your imagination and equipment. I don't have much equipment so I borrow or use what neighbors have...LOL...My imagination is all mine though. The man with THE imagination here now is Trax...It may be a bit warped at times but it's also what motivated me to play with Bucks...He has neat equipment and great picture capturing techniques to boot.:thumbup:
 
I think this has given me a headache. Maybe I will just go buy half a dozen 420HC and just keep em sharpened... Oh,,, Uh,,, never mind,,, I already did that back in the 110 Christmas price wars.

I was just curious... so when or if I decide on an upgrade, I'll just send a new one. I always wonder about what a knife has been through.. This one has about as good a frame and bolsters as any non mint no dot. But the blade is sirusly pitted and looks like an attempt was made to sharpen the false edge. If knives could talk.....

Wouldn't it be cool if we had a Buck sell/trade exchange thing we could list all our weird ones on... :rolleyes:

Thanks guys,,,I gotta go find an asprin......
 
I think this has given me a headache. Maybe I will just go buy half a dozen 420HC and just keep em sharpened... Oh,,, Uh,,, never mind,,, I already did that back in the 110 Christmas price wars.


Wouldn't it be cool if we had a Buck sell/trade exchange thing we could list all our weird ones on... :rolleyes:

Thanks guys,,,I gotta go find an asprin......
...That would be a fantastic idea there ratsky...I wonder if we're gonna see a buncha new Bucks in Boxes again this year...It's never a bad time to "stock up" when there's a sale goin' on...LOL...I heard Mr Daniel's son Jack has come up with a terrific aspirin substitute....:D
 
Just a suggestion...I've seen older blades for sale and at auction...get an older blade to match the frame's age and send it to Leroy for the work. Good luck, Preston

Thats interesting Preston....I have never seen just a 110 blade for sale anywhere.. Then again I am blind in one eye and cant see out the other...

so now I am down in the floor digging out all the old dots and no dots to see if there is a good blade deserving of a nice frame...

ignore the headache....it will go away
 
I think Jim has an extra "Duke" blade hanging around:D; sans bushing though. The bushing I understand, can be had for three pounds of meat.:D

That may be a bit pricey for a blade or bushing... I did some weird calculations on what our meat cost was based on price we paid for the place... Seems like it started out around $1,700 a pound,,,, but may be down around $750 a pound now. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: who ever said hunting was cheap....
 
I only wish all the meat on a deer was backstrap! I would rather it be more expensive than hunt on state land though. Too many sound shooters on public land. Blaze orange on state land might as well be camo.
We used to hunt in the local national forest. Thats why We bought our own land. I recommend it... not making any more of it. Makes my net worth on paper look impressive..:rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
In Texas at least you guys got "real" whitetails there...brow tines and all. B&C and P&Y size deer too. I would buy my own land if there was that kind of "fruit" to be had where I am.

Unfortunately we are more West central. All the big ones are mostly farther down south and in deep east Texas.... But we have a lot of them.
 
I would talk to Leroy Remer on the blade improvement. He keeps a supply of older knife parts for repair purposes. He can swap the rocker if it needs it assuming he has the blade in stock. The plant is not set up to handle these types of repairs and often sends them to Leroy when they get them anyway.
 
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