Old vs. New Bucks and New Member Greetings

C

CCK

Joined
Feb 25, 2015
Messages
29
Hello,
this is my first post. I found this forum after doing many internet searches on Buck knives, and the best info kept coming from this forum. So I am happy to be here and I am sure that I will learn a lot from all of you fine folks.

I have a question:
I am looking to buy a Buck 110 and a 119. The 110 for EDC and the 119 as a general purpose cutting knife for camp, work, household.
I know both current versions are USA, 420HC, and economical from a retailer like Big 5. I have checked out a 110 at Big 5, and it seemed nice, but the opening blade tension and blade release pressure seemed way higher than I recall when I had these knives as a kid many years ago.
I have looked on Ebay, and there is a seller who specializes in knives who has some unused vintage versions of these knives for not too much more than new. Of course I am weary of Ebay fakes, but this seller has many high ratings and a huge variety of older knives. I don't want to post his Ebay ID here as I do not know if that would be an appropriate thing to do. But assuming that he and his knives are light, would you pay a bit more for unused vintage over new? I know that I might be able to get a blade in 440C that way, and I have read a lot of the opinions on 440C vs. 420HC already on this forum. Also, I don't know how collectors work, but would it be considered bad form to take an unused vintage garden variety (not a custom job) Buck 110 or 119 and put to everyday use? Are the older ones really consider valuable collectables, considering how many were made?

Looking forward to your responses.
Thanks for having me here!

Cheers,
Cliff
 
Welcome to the forum, Cliff. After using the same 112 for 42 years, a few months ago, I purchased my first 110. Being so happy with the performance of the 440C blade on my 112, I purposely tracked down a 110 (2 dot) from the 70s. It was in almost new condition, but the blade had a few scratches, so I sent it back to Buck for a touched up. I have been continuously using it (not abusing it) ever since and have no intention to stop.
 
Cliff, I like 440 just as much as 420... I think either knife is great vintage or newer... I collect knives so I would leave my vintage ones alone especially new in the box... They made a lot of them but still hard to find in there original box... But I did find some new older ones with no boxes and will use those for my everyday carry or camping and hunting knives... But again it's all up to you... There are a lot of guys on forum that use all their knives old or new... Good luck on finding the ones your looking for... And welcome to the blade form... fill out your profile and tell us more about you... Like where you're from... ITE... :)
 
Thanks, guys. Appreciate the input. That's great that Buck will refurbish their old knives. I know that they're a huge company. Is the blade and lock tension on the 110's tighter now than it used to be?
 
Welcome Cliff!

IMHO there are no two Buck knives exactly alike. I have older 110's and brand new 110's and for the most part they all have a slightly different feel to them. There is no guarantee that the older 110 you buy will feel the same as what you recall your old one felt like nor is there a guarantee if will be different from a brand new one in that regard. Also your knife will breakin over time with use and the feel will change.

Nothing wrong with purchasing an older 110 with 440C steel but you'll probably get just as good of service from a new one at less cost. That being said, you'll probably fall into the same trap that has ensnared so many of us here and end up with a bunch of them to enjoy. ;)
 
CCK said:
Hello,
this is my first post. I found this forum after doing many internet searches on Buck knives, and the best info kept coming from this forum. So I am happy to be here and I am sure that I will learn a lot from all of you fine folks.

I have a question:
I am looking to buy a Buck 110 and a 119. The 110 for EDC and the 119 as a general purpose cutting knife for camp, work, household.
I know both current versions are USA, 420HC, and economical from a retailer like Big 5. I have checked out a 110 at Big 5, and it seemed nice, but the opening blade tension and blade release pressure seemed way higher than I recall when I had these knives as a kid many years ago.
I have looked on Ebay, and there is a seller who specializes in knives who has some unused vintage versions of these knives for not too much more than new. Of course I am weary of Ebay fakes, but this seller has many high ratings and a huge variety of older knives. I don't want to post his Ebay ID here as I do not know if that would be an appropriate thing to do. But assuming that he and his knives are light, would you pay a bit more for unused vintage over new? I know that I might be able to get a blade in 440C that way, and I have read a lot of the opinions on 440C vs. 420HC already on this forum. Also, I don't know how collectors work, but would it be considered bad form to take an unused vintage garden variety (not a custom job) Buck 110 or 119 and put to everyday use? Are the older ones really consider valuable collectables, considering how many were made?

Looking forward to your responses.
Thanks for having me here!

Cheers,
Cliff
Click to expand...

Cliff, welcome to this forum. You will find people here to be very helpful and welcoming. I am familiar with the eBay knife which you are referring to and I don't think he claims that most are unused, but some appear to be unused and others are in really good condition and if not, he will say so. I personally like the old Versions, for one thing they are slightly thinner and I do like the old 440C blade steel. I do know, from the ebay listings, that if you are not happy with the knife, you can return it for a full refund of your purchase price. Better ebay sellers do this. Good luck with whichever you choose, old or new. You will find many here in each camp. Welcome aboard.
 
Cliff, there is no way you can go and hold the knife before you purchase? Being picky about this item you'll have to try many before you find one that
suits you. Welcome and good hunting. DM
 
Cliff, I know this is a lame cop out, but I would recommend getting both. If funds are scarce, secure an older one first (if it's in good condition).

I love the wood scales on the older ones but I like the newer knives for EDC use a lot more. I'm more comfortable with 420HC for EDC - I don't know why - easier to touch up maybe - not good enough with stones maybe. I really love the beveled edges of the newer knives. Much easier in the pocket and in the hand for me. And I really like the rake of the newer clip better than the old one. It's wider and (for me) I find it more versatile.

I've had my 2 dot 110 since... 1977. I just got this newer one about month ago and it's barely left my pocket since. I just can't believe how much more friendly it feels to me. But, these things are hugely personal. Sort of like picking out shoes or a beer.
 
Hey guys,
thanks again for your help. Just to give you an update:
I went to my local Big 5 and bought a new 110. They had three in stock, and out of the three only one had the blade centered when closed. Everything else seemed good with it, so that's the one I bought. It was the display knife, and they couldn't find the box, but it does have the leather sheath, so they sold it to me for $35. Another thing, it has the tang stamp of the anvil with 50, USA, but no BUCK, and it's a plain handle without the medallion, and I believe that's a little rare. The others had the anvil with the 50, USA, and also BUCK, no handle medallion. One more thing is I think it was on display for a while because the brass is a bit tarnished, and there is some black gunk in the the lock bar channel and on the edge of the lock bar when the blade is in half open position. How do you guys clean this knife? I was thinking of douching it with NAPTHA or lighter fluid and then re-lubing with 3-in-1 oil or TriLube.....what is the preferred method of cleaning and lubing? It will mostly ride in it's sheath on my belt, as opposed to in my lint filled pockets.
Anyway, I am very please with this knife.
Thanks!
 
I am going to answer only because it is late in the day and the 110 guys might not answer and you might try to clean it tonight. Generally, when the 110 experts answer this question they quickly shy away from liquids such as lighter fluid.
Many of them use hot tap water, dish soap and give it a real soap and water treatment, even using Q-tip or pipe cleaner to get in blade well. Dry it off with paper towels and then use a hair dryer on it to get all the water from the cracks. When I have used the hair dryer on mine I get it pretty hot to the touch. Then let it cool and go in with your oil of choice. Some of those guys use a good gun oil some favor ole 3 in 1. (I use tuff-glide on knives and CLP on guns) Lube up the spring, and pivot and work it several times. If you need proof your cleaning out the factory grit, wash it over a white bowl or plate to see the black stuff (polishing compound) coming out.
I think some of them would have likely said most of that. I just did not want to recommend any light petro. type dissolving fluids, I am certain most would say don't do that.

300Bucks
 
Thank you very much, 300Bucks, for posting that info. That's just what I needed to know.

Cheers
 
I keep the brass nicely polished with Mothers Mag Wheel polish. On the wood, I use Liquid Gold. It stays looking brand new.
 
On the wood, I use medical grade mineral oil and Tuff-Glide on the blade and the blade pivots. Also, it is important, if your knife is dirty, to clean it thoroughly with hot water and dishwasher soap, rinse it good, and get it completely dry. I use good mineral oil on wood, bone and antler. Tuff-Glide is just an amazing product.
 
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