Older 112 flick open question

[johnwaynesandw]

I have read on here that the older knives (110's and 112's) could be modified to flick open with a snap of the wrist, but the newer knives were changed so they could not be flicked open.

What was done to those knives to enable them to flick open? Was part of the tang ground for less friction? Did this hurt the knife as far as structure goes?

The reason I ask is because I got a Buck 112 with one dot on each side. It is pretty well used. There is still a lot of blade left and it is solid, but it has plenty of ding and scratches on the brass. This one will become my EDC so I don't mess up my other 112's.

BTW this 440C Steel takes a keen edge (which I am sure most of you all know).


Thanks,
John

 

[chickentrax]

What was done to those knives to enable them to flick open? Was part of the tang ground for less friction?

As I understand it, the older tangs had a constant radius, which allowed them to snap open if you decreased the backspring pressure, either permanently (grind or bend backspring) or just by finger pressure while snapping.

The "newer" tangs had/have an increasing radius tang, so you were kinda "going uphill" when you tried to snap it...

The tang engagement notch and tab on backspring were also modified at some point, but I don't know if that was to eliminate snapping open or not...

I hope this is incomprehensible...

We used to modify stilettos to snap open, too...and used radiator clamps to hold them just a little bit open...Oh, the joys of a mis-spent youth...

 

[Scott Hartman]

Along the lines Trax has pointed out, the dots were added to each side of the 110 & 112, to denote an internal change in the shape of the blade tang. This took place about the time that there were issues with other makers gravity knives.

 

[johnwaynesandw]

Thanks guys for the help. I don't know if I will try it, but I would like to know how it was done in case I ever have the urge to modify it.


Thanks again,
John

 

[chickentrax]

IIRC, Joe mentioned there [was/may have been] a change in the backspring geometry...so that if you held it with the spring depressed, the blade wouldn't swing free...

I have an old 2-pin 110 here, lemme try it...

Yep, it's definitely been fixed...If you hold it blade down/horizontally, and depress the blade lock, the older blades will swing free, back and forth, like a pendulum...A newer 3-pin 110 blade won't swing no matter how far down you squeeze the blade lock...it "sticks" in place...

The more I think about it...I'm pretty sure several members have reported that old knives sent in for repair were returned with new blades AND new backsprings...

 

[jb4570]

Hi John,

When I was a kid one of my older brothers was a rolling stone...if you know what I mean. He would stop by a visit when he would get set free again!!! I always felt sorry for him and would give him one of my new Buck's. This was 1970- 1973 time frame. He would take the knife out to Dad's shop and take a quarter; open the blade put the quarter into the knife against the back spring and hit the quarter with a hammer...then flip the blade out...he repeated that until the blade flipped out with little effort. I was 10 years old at the time and had to work hard for the knives I gave him from my collection back then...it made me sick to see him do that to a NIB Buck. However, he was my brother and I couldn't have him go around empty handed living like he did. I'm not the knife smith's that these other guys are...so I don't know why that worked for my brother...But I saw him do it to new knives back then at least three times and it worked every time.

jb4570

 

[chickentrax]

...open the blade put the quarter into the knife against the back spring and hit the quarter with a hammer...

Yeah, that sounds right...bending the backspring...but then how do you keep the blade closed???

I can recall jamming a small screwdriver under the end of the backspring tab and bending it back...then filing the protruding excess off...same thing...

Basically, it's ruining a perfectly good knife...

 

[johnwaynesandw]

Thanks for all the help. I think this is one I will be passing on. I may try it with a Buck 110 knock off (Klien tool). I son't see how bending the spring on a perfectly good working 112. I spent some time polishing the brass with my dremal (it looked like it has never been polished) and it is looking better. I am having trouble getting close to the locking bar where it is curved out to unlock. Any suggestions?


Thanks,
John

 

[IH8U]

Ohh you know you want to make it flip open John. The funny thing about that Buck is that the condition you got it in was the same as when I got it years ago and it was sitting in my closet ever since. Im sure it will clean up to decent condition. You might want to try the buffing wheel on the dremel with some compound to get into that finger groove. At least with the cloth wheel it has some flexibility and no additional damage will occur. You should post some before and after pictures, I'd love to see what you have done to that beast.

 

[johnwaynesandw]

I will get some pics as soon as the sun comes out. It cloudy all day with light showers. I did not think to take pics of it before, but now I wish I would have. I can see myself in the brass now.:thumbup:

Now I can carry one of these older 112 and not feel bad about using it. IMHO the 112 is the best EDC in its size. I like the finger guard at the tang on the 112's, They need to put them on the 110's.


John