On a butterfly type pouch sheath...

O

Omega Leather Works

Joined
Jun 13, 2007
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Does the welt go all the way around to the split? I made my welt so that it hooks around the bottom point and goes up the other side about a third of the way up. I planned to skive the welt very thin at the point then taper to zero on the non-welt side.

Does that sound right, or do you run the welt all the way up to the bend?

Also, I gouged the bend like normal. What keeps the bend from tearing? It seems to me that the bend is fairly weakened by the fact that it has been gouged and has the two cuts that meet up right there in the center like on a "V" (when the pattern is layed flat. I guess the stitching will strengthen the area, but there is a lot of tension on the area when it's folded over. That's mainly why I'm wondering about the welt. I guess I could reduce the thickness on the gouged bend a little (8-9oz) by skiving it?
 
Figure some pics might help.

Here's the welt. Ignore the gouge job. It's ugly, but works. I need to sharpen my adjustable gouge blade. Came dull. Thanks Tandy.

Pfrl2Li.jpg


Here's the bend area that I was talking about.

eDXIP3K.jpg


Seems a bit stressed right there where the cuts meet. I'd hate to see it rip. The way I figure it, I can cut a new welt that goes all the way around to the bend there, or I can thin down the bend a little by skiving. Either should take some pressure off the area I'd think.



I didn't make the welt go all the way around because I haven't done a sheath like this. I got great fit/retention on the last one without having to rely on wet forming too much.

You should be able to see where I've drawn the wharncliffe blade. Any ideas on things I should change, or does it look good?
 
Don't know why I didn't think of it before, but I used my rotary punch at the end of the bend. That should help to keep it from tearing.

I'm gonna do another welt. One that goes all the way around. Hopefully fit will be okay, meaning, won't be too loose with the full welt.
 
Yep! You have it. The welt should go all the way around, and yes, you also have it right to use your hole punch to make the point rounded where the cuts meet. Its a relief of sorts. That is the way I do it. Well done! I look forward to seeing more. :)
 
Thanks brother, I appreciate the feedback! Good to know when you get back on track.

Here's the new welt.

f7Qqjmt.jpg


I can't bring myself to use my good leather for welts. I have a hide of this black stuff. It's dyed on the outsides, which I think I'll sand. Either way I'm dyeing the edges black so it should be fine.

I also bought some belts, to use with leather only, for my 4"x48" sander. Sure does better work than my narrow belt grinder that I use for knives.

I've decided to basket weave this one with a shader border and groove lines. Just seems like it would be too boring without something. The outside border will be black with a green center. I think. Wish I had some exotic skin for an inlay, but that'll have to wait.
 
Thanks Paul! That actually answers questions that I haven't asked yet. The knife going into the sheath has a ridiculously thin tip. I did this by accident as it was my first knife. I'm definitely concerned about it punching a hole in the end, especially since I didn't put a guard on it at all.

I know this pic tells you almost nothing, but I don't have any decent ones atm.

0wgOHws.jpg


Have you ever had a problem with the jb weld damaging the tip?

I actually thought about lining this one. I have a piece of leather that would be perfect. It's super thin and malleable. Only thing is that I cannot remember what it is, or how it was tanned. I suppose I could just line the loop and throat to keep it off the carbon steel. Sure would look nice though. Not sure I have the guts yet either...
 
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