? on why full tangs have so many holes drilled in them?

dadarrow

dadarrow

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Sep 10, 2007
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OK, with the threat of showing my newbie colors, I assume that multiple holes are drilled/machined into the full tang on some knives to reduce weight of the overall piece. is that correct? Do multiple holes allow for a different bonding process when attaching scales? I am just curious as to why so many of the tangs I see in process have multiple holes. I understand that some are for pinning the scales but just thought I would ask.
 
In a word, yes. :D In a few more words, the holes cut down weight and improve balance of the finished knife - the trick is to put in enough holes to lighten the tang enough to largely counteract the added weight of the scales also. The holes also allow bonding scale to scale and give something more than just the surface bonding effect that you'd get without them.
 
Drilling numerous holes in a full tang is usually done to reduce weight
in the tang........and because it's much easier than tapering...!!
 
The Bark River Bravo 1 has both holes for the pins, and some hollowed out (skeltonized) sections in the tang. It is to lighten up the knife, and give balance.
I also have a TOPS Mountain Lion. It has G-10 scales with 3 screws. When I took off the handles I realized that there were other holes, but it's still a strong and balanced knife. This particular knife's handles are not bonded to the tang, just held by the screws.
Some knives are just pinned or bolted, and the tang is solid otherwise. Just depends on what the knife maker wants to do.
 
I love the look, but have yet to get a knife with a tapered tang.
 
On my full-tang knives
  • Tang tapering is for balance and because it looks cool.
  • Extra holes (skeletonization) is mostly for epoxy bonding… sometimes called epoxy pins/rivets.
 
SBuzek said:
But tapering is cooler.
Stan
Click to expand...

:thumbup: Tapering is WAY cooler* and not as hard as it may seem. Just takes practice.

But yeah, drilling holes can accomplish all the things mentioned above.

*why, you ask? Because it lends a pleasing visual flow to the knife and shows a dedication to craftsmanship.
 
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Like everyone has already said it's for weight reduction and additional bonding between the scales. I like to use larger holes and make internal epoxy rivets which adds mechanical strength to the bond.
 
Now I am a real beginner in making knifes, but I like to counter sink the handle material around the hole so the epoxy forms on each side of the hole to form maybe an H type pattern on either side of the metal... an epoxy pin.

An I bevel each side of the hole to prevent heat cracking.
 
MT Borg you are correct. Counter-sinking the holes only takes seconds and adds peace of mind. :Thumbup:
 
I saw a picture of a broken full tang knife that broke where a large wight reduction hole weakened the tang under the handle material. I've never made swiss cheese out of my tangs but if I were to do so I would be careful at the ricasso end of the handle area and try to take more from the pommel end. Just my personal, unfounded opinion.

LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
Any hole in a blade is a stress raiser. We test a lot of 'tatical knives' most of them break through a hole, be it for a thumb stud or - . The influence is much less when the steel is soft.
 
The weight reduction has more effect on balance if the holes are closer to the pommel anyway. Any weight-reducing holes should be sized and located so as not to create any acute stress risers or weak/ unusually flex prone points on the tang. The forward pin hole is usually the biggest stress riser in a properly-designed full tang, and if any additional lightening holes are drilled, they should be kept away from this area and a fairly consistent flex pattern should be maintained throughout.
 
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