Codger_64
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- Joined
- Oct 8, 2004
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Once in a blue moon I get the urge to retreat to my old stomping grounds for some peace and relaxation, and quite a bit of solitude. With a bit of planning and packing, I make my exodus to the wilderness and get away from the pressures of work, family, bills, radio and television and all of the wonders of modern life and social commitments. It has been nearly ten years now since Ive indulged myself. I figure Im about due. And I have a suspicion that this may well be my last such journey before I go spinning off this mortal coil, to steal words from Thornton Wilder. I would fill this thread with actual photos of my adventures, but alas, they are in the posession of my ex. If she hasn't burned them yet. She's had ten years and three boyfriends to decide.
Ive done this off and on since I became enamored with the river in the late 1960s, years before the big fight that defeated the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers plan to erect a dam and turn the river into an enormous lake. I had t-shirts, bumper stickers and hats emblazoned Dam the Corps, not the river. Finally, with the cooperation of some State politicians, notably Sen. J. William Fulbright, the Arkansas State Governor Orval Faubus (after years of no official position on the Buffalo River, notified the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers that he was opposed to any dam on the stream and, instead, favored a national park.) and nationally respected voices like U.S. Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas ( during a canoe trip in April, 1962. "You cannot let this river die," Douglas said. "The Buffalo River is a national treasure worth fighting to the death to preserve."), Congress approved Public Law 92-237 and on March 1, 1972, President Nixon approved the creation of the Buffalo National River. It came 100 years to the day after the establishment of America's first national park at Yellowstone.
This is a spring/summer picture. In my past experience it was rare to see another human during a two week voyage.
The BNR, as it is now called in the style currently popular, is the Buffalo National River and now covers some 95,000 acres and some 135 to 150 miles of free flowing river ( river length depends upon the listing source). It passes by a 209 foot tall waterfall and impressive sandstone and limestone bluffs as high as 440 feet over the river.
Being situated in a steep valley of the Boston Mountains of the Ozarks, the river gradient drops quite a few feet in its 135 miles. The steepest portion is near the headwaters with an average of 14 per mile. By the time the lower wilderness area is reached, the river has become broader and the increased flow moves at a more leisurely 3 per mile. The portion I choose for my floats is approximately 54 miles long and, with the exception on one highway bridge overhead, it is pretty well devoid of signs of civilization. The only real hazards on this section are the river rises near its confluence with the White River caused by the large power generating dam upstream on Lake Norfork, the few black bears encountered since the restoration program in the 1980s, and of course protracted rain, sleet snow or ice storms. The small village of Gilbert, located just off the river, is also known for setting State record low temperatures in the winter, seven degrees being set in 2002, though Ive recorded much colder temps just downstream of Clabber Shoal on the river.
The Lower Wilderness section is my choice for a one week float, usually when I managed to connive someone into accompanying me, but the next section upstream is included in my more epic two week adventures with the Gilbert General Store (circa 1906) as a resupply point about halfway. This section moves at a little bit faster pace with several easily negotiated rapids and shoals. This section adds about fifty more miles to the trip.
I think Ill start planning a trip for late December or early January. Im about due and theres plenty of time to plan.
First to find is an appropriate tent. I have four assorted tents, all of the Wally-world/Ozark Trails disposable variety. They are not being considered for obvious reasons. Plus, whatever tent I wind up with needs to be freestanding. Camping is usually on gravel bars along the river, and stakes cannot be securely driven.
Ive used deadmen before, and even sacks filled with rocks to hold guy ropes so that is possible if a fly has to be stretched away from the tent body. A hassle, but possible. Next, the tent needs to be sized for at least two people. That is one person and two weeks of gear including my paddles. From experience I can say, the abundant beaver will drag off and gnaw anything tasting of salt. Lost a good handmade paddle that way once.
Now while I am not a stickler for camo tents, neither do I care for the visual pollution of bright colors when I am camping. And price. This is going to be a budget driven outfitting, so if I can get the latest Big Agnes tent for $50, so much the better. Whatever tent, Ill be carrying a separate emergency shelter probably a tube tent and a spare fly, both kept handy for sudden foul weather or upset in the river.
Weight is not a main concern, but it will affect the type and amount of other gear I can take with me in the canoe. Speed of erection in failing light, lack of loose components, and weather tightness are important.
Note: On most rivers and streams it is not too smart to camp so close to a river. In this instance, except for the last two miles above the White River, river rises are reasonably slow and fairly predictable. I always choose my camps with an eye toward unexpected evacuation overland, i.e. not against an unclimbable bluff.
Suggestions? Offers of a free or cheap Big Agnes?
Codger
Ive done this off and on since I became enamored with the river in the late 1960s, years before the big fight that defeated the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers plan to erect a dam and turn the river into an enormous lake. I had t-shirts, bumper stickers and hats emblazoned Dam the Corps, not the river. Finally, with the cooperation of some State politicians, notably Sen. J. William Fulbright, the Arkansas State Governor Orval Faubus (after years of no official position on the Buffalo River, notified the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers that he was opposed to any dam on the stream and, instead, favored a national park.) and nationally respected voices like U.S. Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas ( during a canoe trip in April, 1962. "You cannot let this river die," Douglas said. "The Buffalo River is a national treasure worth fighting to the death to preserve."), Congress approved Public Law 92-237 and on March 1, 1972, President Nixon approved the creation of the Buffalo National River. It came 100 years to the day after the establishment of America's first national park at Yellowstone.
This is a spring/summer picture. In my past experience it was rare to see another human during a two week voyage.
The BNR, as it is now called in the style currently popular, is the Buffalo National River and now covers some 95,000 acres and some 135 to 150 miles of free flowing river ( river length depends upon the listing source). It passes by a 209 foot tall waterfall and impressive sandstone and limestone bluffs as high as 440 feet over the river.
Being situated in a steep valley of the Boston Mountains of the Ozarks, the river gradient drops quite a few feet in its 135 miles. The steepest portion is near the headwaters with an average of 14 per mile. By the time the lower wilderness area is reached, the river has become broader and the increased flow moves at a more leisurely 3 per mile. The portion I choose for my floats is approximately 54 miles long and, with the exception on one highway bridge overhead, it is pretty well devoid of signs of civilization. The only real hazards on this section are the river rises near its confluence with the White River caused by the large power generating dam upstream on Lake Norfork, the few black bears encountered since the restoration program in the 1980s, and of course protracted rain, sleet snow or ice storms. The small village of Gilbert, located just off the river, is also known for setting State record low temperatures in the winter, seven degrees being set in 2002, though Ive recorded much colder temps just downstream of Clabber Shoal on the river.
The Lower Wilderness section is my choice for a one week float, usually when I managed to connive someone into accompanying me, but the next section upstream is included in my more epic two week adventures with the Gilbert General Store (circa 1906) as a resupply point about halfway. This section moves at a little bit faster pace with several easily negotiated rapids and shoals. This section adds about fifty more miles to the trip.
I think Ill start planning a trip for late December or early January. Im about due and theres plenty of time to plan.
First to find is an appropriate tent. I have four assorted tents, all of the Wally-world/Ozark Trails disposable variety. They are not being considered for obvious reasons. Plus, whatever tent I wind up with needs to be freestanding. Camping is usually on gravel bars along the river, and stakes cannot be securely driven.
Ive used deadmen before, and even sacks filled with rocks to hold guy ropes so that is possible if a fly has to be stretched away from the tent body. A hassle, but possible. Next, the tent needs to be sized for at least two people. That is one person and two weeks of gear including my paddles. From experience I can say, the abundant beaver will drag off and gnaw anything tasting of salt. Lost a good handmade paddle that way once.
Now while I am not a stickler for camo tents, neither do I care for the visual pollution of bright colors when I am camping. And price. This is going to be a budget driven outfitting, so if I can get the latest Big Agnes tent for $50, so much the better. Whatever tent, Ill be carrying a separate emergency shelter probably a tube tent and a spare fly, both kept handy for sudden foul weather or upset in the river.
Weight is not a main concern, but it will affect the type and amount of other gear I can take with me in the canoe. Speed of erection in failing light, lack of loose components, and weather tightness are important.
Note: On most rivers and streams it is not too smart to camp so close to a river. In this instance, except for the last two miles above the White River, river rises are reasonably slow and fairly predictable. I always choose my camps with an eye toward unexpected evacuation overland, i.e. not against an unclimbable bluff.
Suggestions? Offers of a free or cheap Big Agnes?
Codger
of course if I went with...... aw heck, there goes the solitude.
.
