One Piece Question

Grego

Grego

Joined
Apr 22, 2007
Messages
402
I am considering purchasing either a Shadow or project models with in the one piece catergory. I want one that will either be a 7.5" or 9" model...any suggestions?

Also anyone that owns one of these knives...can you tell me if they are every bit as tough and durable as I have read...and what is the pro to the one piece design?

Any and all information is appreciated.
 
Own two project 1s. One is plain edge the other standard model. Both are great knives. Edge hold up to real world punishment, but it is easy to sharpen when needed. The con...handle can be cold in winter weather and below freezing temps. Cord wrapping can solve this. I also own a Sable 4 and use it when ever I am in the outdoors. Leather sheaths is durable, but when I am out in the field I like to use Spec op combat master sheath. Large one for the Projects and the small size for the Sable. Of the two Project 1 Plain edge is the one I perfer.
 
superduty truck said:
Own two project 1s. One is plain edge the other standard model. Both are great knives. Edge hold up to real world punishment, but it is easy to sharpen when needed. The con...handle can be cold in winter weather and below freezing temps. Cord wrapping can solve this. I also own a Sable 4 and use it when ever I am in the outdoors. Leather sheaths is durable, but when I am out in the field I like to use Spec op combat master sheath. Large one for the Projects and the small size for the Sable. Of the two Project 1 Plain edge is the one I perfer.
Click to expand...

It looks like the project models beat out the shadow models in terms of blade thickness as well...projects coming in at 6.5mm and the shadows at 6.35mm. I was leaning a little more toward the project 1 myself...7.5" is a good happy medium between 5.5" & 9":thumbup:

I have fairly large hands...can you please descibe how the handles feel in terms of "fullness" and how "grippy" is the traction on the handle?

Is cord wrapping an easy task?
 
I also have large but wide hands the Project handle fells fine and grips well in my hands. There is room to choke up or use the weight of the blade to chop. I personal have not cord wrapped my knives. I can handle the knife in my winters (AZ deserts) without the cord. I am sure someone else could help. As for traction it is one of the better designs if you have "worker" hands. Some with soft hands have complained about the grip. As for me, my job is in the trades, so I can handle the grip and does not bother me at all. I perfer 7.5 length over 9". Some like 5 inches but 7.5 is a better length for all purpose knife like the project 1. One of the best feature is night index, it does work with feeling and takes no time to get used to.
 
I had always wanted a Project 1. I was offered a NIB Shadow 1 at a price no sane man could pass up. I planed to sell it to finance my Project 1 purchase, then I used it. With a 9 inch blade it is a LARGE knife but, it is so well balanced and purportioned it feels much smaller in the hand. I have used it for many tasks both large and small and consider it my #1 go to knife. Either way I don't think you could go wrong.
Allan
 
Grego said:
I have fairly large hands...can you please descibe how the handles feel in terms of "fullness" and how "grippy" is the traction on the handle?

Is cord wrapping an easy task?
Click to expand...

Grego, the handles are almost too full for some people, I think they just can't get used to the shape. My hands are wide and I find they give me total flexibility, being circular in cross-section, they aren't biased towards any particular grip.

The traction is excellent, and the knurling is not abrasive. I haven't done much heavy work for years, and it doesn't tear up my hands. In fact, I use my Sable III in the kitchen and I don't worry about wet and slippery conditions.

Cord wrapping is what you make of it, but CRK's round handles are less appropriate for certain styles of cord wrap.

Here's a quick and simple style that should work real well, even with full paracord (with the inner threads still in it). http://www.therangerdigest.com/Tips___Tricks/PARA-CORD_KNIFE_HANDLE/body_para-cord_knife_handle.html

This is a bit more complicated, but you may as well check it out for ideas also http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_CordWrap.htm And here's an excellent tutorial on the Strider wrap http://www.striderknives.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=13&Itemid=29

For winter conditions, you might try a section of bicycle innertube slipped over the handle for insulation and grip.
 
I'm going to have to give a counter-review to Esav on the one-piece's handles. I have the Mountaineer II, and while it's my go-to knife, I find the handle beats up on my keyboard-soft hands quite a lot. Of course, this happens only if I'm doing more than prepping food with it. So if I'm splitting wood, chopping, whittling, etc, I have to put on gloves or I get major blisters.

I'd also be very worried about this knife if I was carrying it in the desert where that metal handle can get really hot.

I honestly think that the only way to know if you'll like the one-piece handles is to give it a try. Probably they'll work better for some people than others. Personally, I've been thinking about selling my Mountaineer II and going towards something like the Pacific (but the serrations keep putting me off on that knife).

Your mileage will almost certainly vary.
 
With a RC of 55-57 how long will the Chris Reeves A2 hold its edge, under somewhat "normal" conditions?
 
Heat treated to provide both edge retention and toughness. I would carry a sharpner. It should hold up well except if you are the type to test on concrete.;)
 
One of the vendors at the BAKCA knife show this year had what looked like a section of bicycle inner tube on the handle of a 5.5" Shadow.
It was effective, at least for casual handling at the show.

Rich
 
Rich357 said:
One of the vendors at the BAKCA knife show this year had what looked like a section of bicycle inner tube on the handle of a 5.5" Shadow.
It was effective, at least for casual handling at the show.

Rich
Click to expand...

It works for my Shadow 4 as well.:)
PICT0368.jpg


Tom
 
I have one more question regarding A2...is it a good steel to have heat treated to a RC 58 to 60?

What are the pros and cons to A2 compared to other popular steels?
 
A-2 --- when properly heat treated, can go toe to toe with any steel out there. I'm not sure on the rockwell scale question though. Keep the blade lightly oiled.
Lycosa
FWIW--- GREEN is MEAN!
 
I have found the Chris Reeve One Peice Handles to be very comfortable. Yes, they can get hot or cold, if in extreme temperatures. But, if I am in extreme Hot or Cold environments, I am always wearing gloves.

I have a older Jereboam II, that I have had for over 20 years (one of the original made in South Africa baldes), that I wrapped Parachute Cord over the handle, in 1988. Has stood up since then, though does get a little crimey so have to wash it.

I personally think Chris Reeve's one peice Skinning knife is the best skinning knife out there!
 
Grego said:
I have one more question regarding A2...is it a good steel to have heat treated to a RC 58 to 60?

What are the pros and cons to A2 compared to other popular steels?
Click to expand...
Chris Reeve was looking for a steel for a hard use outdoor knife. He started thinking about it in the army, and came home to make the kind of knife a soldier would need in the field.

A2 will take a nice edge and hold it and is tough, especially since he doesn't harden it as far as he could. He wants his knives to take impact and be easily sharpened, so he backs off a couple of points in hardness.

If the knife were purely for slicing, like a skinning knife, it might make sense to harden it a bit more.
 
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