One side sharp one side not!

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Feb 1, 2001
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I'm using the older Spyderco V sharpener(not the 204) and when I touch up the blade on many of my knives it always seems only one side of the blade is left sharp. So then I make another pass on the less sharp side and the other side that was shaving sharp is now barely able to scrape off hair on my arm and vice versa! Why is this happening??? It is really making me mad. Thank you for any help!
 
It sounds to me like you have a wire edge. There are many here who can explain this way better than me, but I'll take a stab at it. (pardon the pun)
Anyway, when you sharpen a knife, once you "get to the edge" a burr will form on the side of the blade opposite of the one against the stone. You can feel it with your fingernail. It will sort of "catch" on the edge. You can sometimes see it if you have a magnifying glass and the right light. This burr forms on one side. It seems supersharp (especially on the side where the burr sticks out), will shave great, but the burr or wire edge is so fine that it will break off the second it hits something harder than a hair.

I think looking for that burr to form is key to doing a good job sharpening. Here's how I do it. I sharpen on a coarser stone on one side until I feel a burr form all the way down along the edge. I switch sides and sharpen until the burr is formed on the other side. I usually sharpen it back and forth, making the burr change sides each time. (it can be done with less strokes and pressure each successive time). I then switch to a finer stone (or from the corner of a sharpmaker stone to a flat). Do the same thing (making the burr form on one side, flip over, etc). Once you work your way down to the finest stone, then just keep alternating sides and reducing the pressure of your strokes until theres no longer a burr and it's sharp.

That's probably more of an answer than you asked for.

--Matt
 
Skagsig40: check whether the stones are flat. Sometimes they're curved.
 
Slap it on a leather strop to remove the wire edge and go back to sharpening untill the final strop.I have two different strops one has coarser leather and the other fine and smooth and has been worked with the compound to a smooth sheen and I only use the fine worked one for final stropping and the coarser one for in between like knocking down the wire edge.Works well. Lately I have been doing everything on paper wheels on the buffer and you can sharpen a knife scarey sharp in no time and then final strop it.....................R
 
blackeye4you,

I appreciate hearing your tips about removal of the wire edge, although I wasn't the one asking. Can you explain the paper wheel technique a bit more, I haven't heard of this before.

By the way, I really like your signature line. I can't wait to quote that the next time someone hassles me about my guns n' knives.

Cheers, Jeff/1911.
 
There are two wheels made from compressed paper with slits cut in it.One has grit glued to it which can be replaced when it wears out.It comes with the grit and you spread glue and sprinkle the grit.You use bees wax or some use other wax on this wheel and coat the grit.This wheel takes down metal fast and I only use on bad edges.The second wheel is just paper and you use compound on this one.You can get an edge fast and with a few passes.You just have to watch the heat.I have never had this problem except with bad edges.If you stay on top of it your knives will always be scarey sharp. www.sharpeningwheels.com has them but I think it was Texas knife akers supply tha was cheaper.They have them for grinders or buffers.An eight inch wheel fits on a six inch grinder with the guards removed. These wheels rock.Have fun................RB
 
Thanks guys for the tips. I'm also one who didn't started the thread, but I'm glad someone did so I can also find out so many useful hints :)
 
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