Ontario Knives help.

gmarthur

gmarthur

Joined
Mar 5, 2007
Messages
638
I'm looking into getting a knife from Ontario / Rat Knives.

I really like the TAK but I'm not sure whether to go with D2 or 1095. The only D2 I've used were on Benchmade knives and I have nothing but good things to say about it. I don't think I've ever had a knife in 1095 although I have alot of old knives that I have no idea what the steel is.

Also if anyone has handled a RAT-5 and a TAK is there any major differences feel wise? Like if one just blows the other out of the water for some reason. I'd appreciate any help you guys could give. Normally I don't buy a knife unless I can handle it first but in this case I don't have that opportunity.

Thanks again.
 
D2 or 1095 will depend largely on your uses for the knife.

Are you going to be using it mostly outdoors?
Around water?
For chopping (wood, etc) or mostly for slicing?
Are you proficient at sharpening knives?


As for the TAK vs the RAT5 - - I've not yet handled a RAT5.
Really do like the blade jimping, tang extension, and slight extra length on
the RAT, though,as I've seen plenty of pictures of it. I have a a RAT3 (in D2), a TAK (in 1095) and an RTAK II. So at this point I'd say RAT5.
 
Honestly, if you want a big knife for chopping, unless the have they heat treat down for D2, I'd go with 1095, eaiser to sharpen in the field, and takes a beating.
 
I have heard that the handle on the RAT5 is more comfortable than on the TAK and it also had a really good write up in Tactical Knives magazine.The 5 also has a skull crusher pommel as to whether this is a pro or a con would be down to the individual.
I would also have to agree with Fonly and go with the 1095 it is better for lateral stresses when prying etc and although it would lose it's edge slighty quicker it is also much easier to sharpen !
 
:thumbup: +1 for the 1095, however, I prefer the RAT 7..


Ontario RAT's are a nice nice.. Good choice!:thumbup:
 
Thanks for the input fellas. No real need for a skull crusher but I am thinking the little extra length on the RAT-5 will be a plus. Good to know 1095 has some fans, I really wanted one in this steel to try it out but was worried it was junk.

A RAT-5 in 1095 it is. Thanks again.
 
I also have both the TAK-1 and RAT-5 in 1095. Even a RAT-3 in 1095. 1095 is in my view a good steel (easy sharpening, and tough enough for my needs)

I prefer the TAK-1 over the RAT-5 at smaller tasks. For a bushcraft knife the TAK-1 is the best. The RAT-5 has a broader blade and is more tactical looking.
Again both are fantastic!

CZ
 
another vote for carbon steel. Better for chopping.

But as I said in another similar thread. I would go for D2 for a Rat-3. (before you ask).
 
gmarthur said:
Good to know 1095 has some fans, I really wanted one in this steel to try it out but was worried it was junk.
Click to expand...

1095 has LOTS of fans! :) The maintenance is really minimal, someone posted "take care of your knife like your toothbrush and you'll be fine" and I agree. Meaning a rinse/dry or wipedown when you're done using it, don't put it in the sheath covered in blood etc. In my opinion, 1095 is the standard by which other steels are judged, for outdoor knives.
 
GibsonFan said:
1095 has LOTS of fans! :) The maintenance is really minimal, someone posted "take care of your knife like your toothbrush and you'll be fine" and I agree. Meaning a rinse/dry or wipedown when you're done using it, don't put it in the sheath covered in blood etc. In my opinion, 1095 is the standard by which other steels are judged, for outdoor knives.
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more, my Ka-Bar is my best friend :D
 
1095 is the steel used in U.S. military-issue knives such as the Ka-Bar utility/combat knife and the USAF pilot's survival knife. It's also what Ontario uses in the Old Hickory series. I think it's also what Fort Turner uses for the cutting edge of its tomahawks. It is tough steel, takes a good edge, can hold it respectably with appropriate heat treatment. I've leaned violently, with all my weight, on a very thin Ontario Old Hickory blade held in a vise, and learned to respect that steel when, instead of snapping (which I was trying to get it to do), it merely threw me back. D2, by contrast, has been called inappropriate for large chopping blades by no famed knife-torture-tester Cliff Stamp: apparently that steel is disposed to chip or snap. It is also said to be much harder to sharpen in the field. Because snapping, or even major chipping, is just about the worst kind of failure for a survival knife, I'd far rather take my chances with a little rust or a little need for sharpening, and go with the tough, tried-&-true 1095.

For what it's worth, it's also usually a lot less expensive than D2, as D2 is lately kind of a fad in some circles. I would not trust a D2 blade for serious outdoor or survival use--but I would trust, and do trust, and have trusted 1095 for such applications.
 
I was in the same dilemma also. I posted and many felt the Rat-7 in 1095 was what I was after. I bought it and am very glad I did. I love the 1095 steel and was reasonably able to put a hair shaving edge on it from my SharpMaker.
The attached pic is the after from batoning through some red oak. All those marks cleaned right up with a little soap and water.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v674/markhait/Rat-7.jpg
 
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