Ontario Rat-1 Regrind

Joined
Aug 7, 2017
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171
Hello guys,

I bought myself a new knife last week, an Ontario Rat-1 in AUS-8 steel.

I promised myself that I will not modify it because of the nice looks a new blade has.

The factory bevel was crap, apex overpolished and the tip angle was too high. It even had a small recurve resulting from a bad factory grinding job.

So I put on a new and even bevel with my Tormek T4, 16 dps. The problem is because my wheel has a diameter of 180mm the area behind the apex bent under light pressure, which is not acceptable for a rather medium to hard work folder.

That was the trigger point to say ok, now you have to change everything. I reground the blade on my cheapo 1x30 inch belt grinder 80 grit fepa and finished the primary bevel by hand (150 fepa, then tormek polishing paste). I even dropped the spine a little bit to make it pierce better.

Now the recurve is gone, 0,3 mm behind the edge bevel (17 dps Lansky), I only left the tip area a bit thicker.

It is not perfect visually, but it is ok and the performance boosted.

Hope you like it ;)

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BR Oliver
 
I have a partially serrated one that was gifted to me that I reground to a full height hollow grind on the beveled face and a full flat zero grind on the back. You can roll your thumbnail on the edge and watch it deform elastically under the pressure. Cuts like the dickens. :D
 
I have a partially serrated one that was gifted to me that I reground to a full height hollow grind on the beveled face and a full flat zero grind on the back. You can roll your thumbnail on the edge and watch it deform elastically under the pressure. Cuts like the dickens. :D
So you hollow ground one side and flat ground the other? Im very curious.
 
If I had bench space it would be hard to resist a tormek and a belt grinder. So many thick knives I’d love to thin out.

That’s a great job on the regrind.
 
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Looks great !
Way to go.
Sorry the factory job wasn't what you like.
My Rat 1 in D2 that I just got a few weeks ago was actually quite usable. It's been doing good precise work for me and I usually can't stand factory geometry / edges.
 
Great job op!

Yes. So that way it'd be easy to touch up the serrations from the backside. Otherwise I'd have done a full hollow on both sides.

Wow that's crazy on a full flat to hollow... Must have been a large wheel! What diameter?
 
Great job op!



Wow that's crazy on a full flat to hollow... Must have been a large wheel! What diameter?

Nah just an 8" wheel. It just meant I had to be more careful about how I did it since I couldn't be lazy about it and just rest the knife on the wheel. Had to start a "track" in the middle of the blade and work forward and backward.

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Nah just an 8" wheel. It just meant I had to be more careful about how I did it since I couldn't be lazy about it and just rest the knife on the wheel. Had to start a "track" in the middle of the blade and work forward and backward.

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Ahh ok Yeah so basically blending the spine to the edge on the wheel as opposed to a straight hollow where one grind line would track from the spine to the edge. Was gonna say if I did the latter I'm pretty sure it would eat through to the other side of the blade! Lol
 
Freehanding it like that was still pretty fiddly, but by starting a track in the middle and then walking it back to the spine and forward to the edge worked out pretty good. :)
 
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