- Joined
- Jan 1, 2018
- Messages
- 56
I just joined specifically to post about my experience sharpening this knife. I have read posts on this site for a few years now but until now the best steel in any of my knives was 440C, and nothing to brag about.
The RAT1 was bigger than my other folders, and the size of the blade was gratifying. It was heavier, made in Tawain. The factory edge(who doesnt love a good factory edge?) was shaving sharp for the length and i guess it was ground at a 36 or 40 degree inclusive angle. Although on one side near the tip of the blade the angle of the bevel seemed to increase, as if it needed a second pass at the wheel. It cut through paper and cardboard and kleenex much more aggressively than any of my other knives.
I was initially reluctant to tamper with a perfect edge on such a tough steel. Most folks seem to recommend using diamond hones. But I'd lost all mine. This is what id been using:
1 cheap double sided, 6" whetstone medium/coarse from local hardware store
1 soft arkansas stone 3"
1 Black Hard arkansas stone 3"
The soft and hard stones which I used first just to try to hone the edge and see how much work would go into the knife were typically frustrating. After careful clumsy attempts on both stones, using honing oil and a few hours I tried a new approach, got my biggest coarse stone and honed under a faucet with good results. I repeated my success in removing steel with the arkansas stones under running water and then back with the medium side of the big cheap stone to reset the bevel correctly.
d2 sounds different than AUS8 OR 8Cr or 440a/b/c ond the stone. The grinding noise is higher and thinner probably bc less metal is being removed than with those softer steels.
I had to use a lot of pressure and i couldnt find a good balance between lubricating the stones w/ oil and being able to feel what i was doing. It was easier using water. I could tell when the bevel was flat bc the stone would stop grabbing so hard on my passes. I generally use a trailing edge\side hone stroke but to start i went with a fast circle motion, choosing speed over pressure and gradually reducing the diameter of those circles and increasing the pressure as the bevel
smoothed out. Also, I hold the stone in my off hand i never use a holder or table top.
I havent honed it or stropped it yet bc my hands are blistered and sore. But the bevel is set.
I am super impressed by the blade and the steel, and if superman carried a knife im sure it would be this one.
Thats my advice for sharpening d2, though: Do it under a running water with a medium coarse stone. Im sure diamond hones are better but I still need to buy some
The RAT1 was bigger than my other folders, and the size of the blade was gratifying. It was heavier, made in Tawain. The factory edge(who doesnt love a good factory edge?) was shaving sharp for the length and i guess it was ground at a 36 or 40 degree inclusive angle. Although on one side near the tip of the blade the angle of the bevel seemed to increase, as if it needed a second pass at the wheel. It cut through paper and cardboard and kleenex much more aggressively than any of my other knives.
I was initially reluctant to tamper with a perfect edge on such a tough steel. Most folks seem to recommend using diamond hones. But I'd lost all mine. This is what id been using:
1 cheap double sided, 6" whetstone medium/coarse from local hardware store
1 soft arkansas stone 3"
1 Black Hard arkansas stone 3"
The soft and hard stones which I used first just to try to hone the edge and see how much work would go into the knife were typically frustrating. After careful clumsy attempts on both stones, using honing oil and a few hours I tried a new approach, got my biggest coarse stone and honed under a faucet with good results. I repeated my success in removing steel with the arkansas stones under running water and then back with the medium side of the big cheap stone to reset the bevel correctly.
d2 sounds different than AUS8 OR 8Cr or 440a/b/c ond the stone. The grinding noise is higher and thinner probably bc less metal is being removed than with those softer steels.
I had to use a lot of pressure and i couldnt find a good balance between lubricating the stones w/ oil and being able to feel what i was doing. It was easier using water. I could tell when the bevel was flat bc the stone would stop grabbing so hard on my passes. I generally use a trailing edge\side hone stroke but to start i went with a fast circle motion, choosing speed over pressure and gradually reducing the diameter of those circles and increasing the pressure as the bevel
smoothed out. Also, I hold the stone in my off hand i never use a holder or table top.
I havent honed it or stropped it yet bc my hands are blistered and sore. But the bevel is set.
I am super impressed by the blade and the steel, and if superman carried a knife im sure it would be this one.
Thats my advice for sharpening d2, though: Do it under a running water with a medium coarse stone. Im sure diamond hones are better but I still need to buy some