Ontario Survival Machete questions

R

Reid

Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Messages
6
Hello,
I'm new. I posted a short intro a few minutes ago in the "Who the heck are ya" thread.

I'm a huge fan of Ontario blades. I love the price and function of these things. Anyway, I was going to make something along the lines of this http://www.knivesplus.com/QN-SP8-Ontario.HTML
and was wondering if y'all had any pointers.
Some specific curiosities I had were about the tempering. Is this a piece, since chopping is a primary function, that would only get a blade tempering? How do y'all recommend doing only the edge? My attempts in the past have been on thin blades like chisels and such. Is there a secret to doing the length. Some king of jig maybe? I should mention that one use of this blade will be as a splitting froe.
Also, if I put a chisel ground edge on a machete does it matter which way it leans if I intend to use it right handed? Should I consider my stroke alone on this?
Finally, though I'll take any hints you have to offer, if I wanted to make the front end a flat chisel, what are some things I could do to bolster the pommel to facilitate whacking with a wooden mallet?
At this point I am limited to stock removal but this will change as soon as I buy a house. I have the stuff for a forge but I don't want to build it twice in a year.
My knives are not pretty in any way. But they do what I want them to.

Please, if I have asked something that is easy to look up please just give me the key word or whatever, I know you're busy. When I searched I came up with some things but the questions I'm asking are tailored to this geometry, so I figure, different answers.

Thank you very much,
Daniel Garner
 
I have thought about this chisel grind on a knife this size too. I would think if you are right handed have the flat side be on the left side of the blade and the bevel on the right side.
WHat heat treating experience do you have and what sort of heat source?
Waht kind of grinder do you have?
 
Hi,
This is the grinder that I'm using now http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=2161&FamilyID=4605
I have yet to burn out anything after my first test pieces. Although, I did get a finger caught in there for a split second. It ate through the glove and wore down to the artery in my right middle finger before I could pull back. Good stuff. Probably should have gone to a doctor for that.

I also employ an angle grinder and a dremel for some aspects of removal. The rest is elbow grease, sandpaper, and files.

My experience with tempering has been primarily in the stone carving world. I generally just use a torch but occasionally the fire pit comes in handy. The metal I've been using is stock from Home Depot. I can't figure out what it is as there is no indication other than a little flash rust. Even though it might not be the best it has been working for what I need. I figure I should get perfect with the grinder before I start stocking up on the exotic metals that I know I want to use. Or, that might be the lady channeling our bank account info into my head directly. With a frown.

I am amazed at the level of craftsmanship that I see on this site. Especially the people who make their money doing other things. You guys and gals keep me going.
 
Howdy ! If you can afford a few bucks you might want to check out some of this for your blade in D2 http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm at least this way you know what you'll be working with and more of a clear way to know what methods to best use. I'm thinking the stuff at HD is just cheap steel and the cost is about the same if you compare it to the D2 on that link. The 3/16's stuff is more than sturdy for what you want to make.
These folks here are great at helping out with info :)
 
That seems like a good place. Thank you.
I am of two minds when it comes to this. One part just wants the fastest solution and the other wants everything I make to be art all by itself, even if it's really a means to an end. Which most knives generally are I guess.
By the way, I didn't see it on there, where is Texas Knifemaker's Supply located?
 
I would suggest a steel pommel,which is basically a solid rear bolster.Get a block of mild steel,about 3/4" thick by 1" wide, and long enough to be the pommel shape you want.Cut a slot in it about 1/4" deep the width of the tang (it doesn't need to be a real neat cut,but try to get the tang to fit it fairly snug).Braze the pommel cap on with brass brazing or silver solder (not soft solder).Clean up the joint between the tang and the pommel block.Grind the shape you want,and fit the handle up against it.This can all be done after HT .Wrap the blade in a wet towel to keep the heat from running into the tempered area of the blade.The softened tang will be a plus. File a cross hatch pattern on the butt to increase the bite of the mallet when striking the butt.
 
Heat treat... I don't know if you ever found what you were looking for regarding the hardening and tempering process. I'd recommend searching for differential hardening or differential tempering tutorials.

Depending on the materials and size of the blade there are a few ways to go about this. A lot of people have been using refractory clay the same way that the japanese smiths used clay for differentially hardening their katanas. The downside is that this is a skill, and that means practice! And then testing to the point of destruction to find out if you've gotten it right.

Anyway, you should find some good info pretty quick if you search in the forums and even use those keywords in a google search.
 
Thank you all for the assistance.

bladsmth: Thanks for the pommel advice. Do you think it would work to weld the face of a hammer on there? Also, it wouldn't have to be a steel pommel if I'm using a wooden mallet. Maybe a very impact resistant wood.

Jason: Unhardenable steel. Crap. Ah well though, I can still use it for this other thing I'm working on.

grawulf: I was really afraid that's what I was going to hear. I am well enough aware of the Japanese heat treating process to know that I don't know jack. I do love a good hammon though (there should be a smilie face that rubs his chin whiskers). A challenge!
 
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