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FrankieCrabs

FrankieCrabs

Joined
Nov 28, 2000
Messages
524
Hey, all.

Well, I just wanted to let you know that a tuff-cloth is perhaps NOT the best thing to wipe down the front scale of your decorated [anodized] sebenzas with. Earlier today, I used one to clean the fingerprints off of my line drive graphic large sebbie, and I noticed afterwards that some of the color had been removed from the design. :rolleyes: There must be strong mojo in those tuff-cloths to do that. At least it's not expensive [$15 or so according to a CRK email] to have it reanodized, although they can't guarantee that the new colors will be exactly the same as the original.

Frank
 
The colors might just be covered up with the oil from the cloth. Clean the scale with windex and see if that helps out. I heard about the same thing happening with wd40 on a BC Umfaan way back when.
 
I've also found that one shouldn't use those green scrubber pads to scour a Sebbie's blade. Enough said. :(
 
Kind of wish Walt was still here to address the question.

James - your Blue Circles knife is one of the first CRKs that Walt purchased.

Amazing what a little dish soap will do to get rid of WD40.
 
Pres, I was thinking the same thing, I miss the old guy... nice to know I still have a part of him around.
 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with your annodizing. The Tuf-Cloth puts a thin coating over the annodizing, which changes the way that light is refracted/reflected off of the annodized designs. It is this light refraction that gives the annodizing its brilliant colors.
As St.James says, simply clean the handle with window cleaner and wick out the moisture with a soft, absorbant cloth. Then buff with a soft chamois and the handle will be returned to original brilliance.
There is no need to coat the handle with Tuf-Cloth, since the titanium slabs won't corrode and the annodizing won't discolor unless attacked by a strong solvent or exposed for a long time to moist conditions. And the screws are stainless.
In fact, the only time I had an oxidation problem with a Sebenza was on a black and white damascus blade. Don't worry about the handle or the stainless blades; just keep them dry and they will shine forever.
 
Hello again.
Thanks for all the replies. I dug out some glass cleaner and tried it, and the scale looks as good as new, and maybe better. :cool:

The thing that annoys me so much is the way it shows off every little fingerprint and bit of schmutz- I didn't realize it would be so shiny. Is there any way to lightly tone down the brightness of the finish without damaging the anodized areas? I thought perhaps of 320-400 grit sanding material, but I don't want to risk damaging the scale. For now, and perhaps into the future also, I'm leaving it alone, and just cleaning it off throughout the course of the day. Do a lot of you folks carry your decorated sebbies daily, or usually just for show? Am I the only one neurotic enough to be bothered by this?
There's a silver contrast scale in my future, I know it.

Thanks again for all the advice,
Frank

BTW- The line drive was my first sebbie, but I also just received a large flat ground one as well, both in one week [thanks to Miguet and TallPaul]. In fact, I received the flat ground one on 3/10, just in time to take it to the ECCKS show. I was able to have CR himself check them out for me :D, and he assured me that they were both in proper operating condition [I thought the locks were very stiff, but I'm just not used to the integral lock, or the very thick scale material]. I'm quite pleased w/both of them. I even got myself on the list for a 2003 small wood inlay sebenza, w/a modified blade no less.
 
I use Ren. Wax for the polished titanium on my Small Wood Inlay. It helps prevent fingerprints and smears. You would have to be careful and not let the wax into the annodized decorations.

The wax also works great on the blade, keeps crud from sticking to blade.

Regards,
FK
 
FK, what does the wax do to the anodizing? I thought about doing the same to my wood inlay. Thanks, Robert
 
Originally posted by Ji
FK, what does the wax do to the anodizing? I thought about doing the same to my wood inlay.
Click to expand...

Titanium anodizing is a process that alters the orientation of electrons in the surface Ti atoms. This causes them to reflect different light frequencies. Wax inhibits this reflection, changing what you see. It is an extremely thin layer that can be affected even by something minute like finger oil.

Waxing wood is a completely different matter, which works by filling miniscule pores, yielding a smoother and more lustrous surface, and one less easily penetrated by water. But since Chris uses stabilized wood, it would probably only make it a little more shiny. Buffing it should likely achieve the same effect.
 
Originally posted by Ji
FK, what does the wax do to the anodizing? I thought about doing the same to my wood inlay. Thanks, Robert
Click to expand...


Robert,
I have used Ren. Wax on my 1999 and 2001 small wood inlays. The annozizing is gold for CRK logo and year engraving, I cannot see any change in color if you apply thin coat and rub off with soft cotton (old washed T-shirt). For the wood I start with Pre-Lim (red label) and lightly buff, then Ren Wax the entire knife -> light coats, if it builds up, the wax is hard to remove with hand buffing.

Ren. Wax is also great for blades, keeps gunk from sticking and quick wipe with silicone cloth is all that I use for evening (back to the barn) maintenance.

Regards,
FK
 
My line drive Sebenza is part of my EDC. Just use glass cleaner a couple of times a week she'll look like new. IMHO that's a small price to pay if you want to carry something that "Stands Out".
 
jki et als nailed it. Anodizing is a very intricate and unique process. It always amazes me how it works. I do not pretend to understand it, only to appreciate it.
 
BTW, I am assuming that Tuf-Cloth is safe to use on the blade of a Sebenza, correct? I have used it on all my Benchmades without a problem (although it leaves smears on the BC1) and I just wanted to make absolutely sure that it was fine before I use it on the BLADE ;) of a Sebenza.

Bucky
 
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