Open discussion on pens/pencils

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Oct 27, 2010
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Well, packed up the little one and headed to the flea market this morning while the wife was at work. I never go with anything specific in mind, but have specific things I always keep an eye open for. Good quality knives of any type; kitchen, pocket, belt, etc., vintage owl jewelry (the wife collects it, and if I bring some home she never complains about me going), pens and pencils, and metal working tools.

Today was no exception, I just needed to get out of the house. Didn't care if I bought nothing. Well, after two rows I spot a couple of larger pen bodies sticking out of a tin can. Both are fountain pens, a Parker 21 and a Sheaffer's "School Pen". There was also a Miller Bros skeleton knife in there, I asked the gentleman how much and he told me "Cinco, senior." Sold! The Parker had a bent clip and cracked body, but the nib and internals were perfect, great parts pen. The Sheaffer's was evenly worn and dirty, but not damaged at all.

After a couple more rows I find a vendor who sells real jewelry and nice pens, he has a Parker 21 that is nice looking but the internals are shot. I wanted it for parts, he wanted $20 for it. He can keep it, so I offered to sell him the 21 I just bought and he offered me $5! Sold! Now I have a Sheaffer's for free essentially!

I kept cruisin, and found a little old woman with various vintage trinkets and costume jewelry, I poke around and notice a nice 925 silver pencil, I ask how much. "One dollar for that old thing, its broke." Sold! It isn't broke, its just out of lead. I did tell her exactly what it was, felt bad about paying only a buck. It is a Cross Sterling silver twist pencil, which in bad shape goes for about $20. Only thing is I need to get some lead, I thought it was 0.9 but I think it is actually 1.1.

So if you have made it though my ramblings, here are the pictures of today's spoils. I cleaned up the red Sheaffer's but wont go into detail how right now. If someone wants to know I can post that later. I apologize for the mediocre pics, camera was dying.

DSCN2185.jpg


DSCN2186.jpg


DSCN2191.jpg


These Sheaffer's school pens are a great buy. Cheap, excellent writers, classic style, and cartridge ink. Great for an everyday pen. They are also called cartridge pens or class pens, no official name for them.


Cheers-
-Xander
 
This is from another thread I started, but it was a how-to and I thought an open discussion should have it's own place. More people should see it this way.

Out of curiousity, any experience and/or opinion on the Retro 51 version of the Rotring 600 .7 mm?

I've got my sister working on the ebay angle.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Best Regards,

Steven, I assume you are talking about the Hex-o-matic by Retro 51. It is the only one I can see being their version of a Rotring 600. If so, I have not used it and can't seem to find any real reviews. The things I look for in a drafting mechanical pencil for drafting is weight (I like them hefty), retractable tube (not a deal breaker though), build quality, and flat sides so it doesn't roll off my table. For art and edc use I like them light, round, good strong clip, prominent action (strong click) and a cone shaped nose.

The Hex-o-matic looks like a decent pencil, but could be aluminum hence the price. Still not cheap, but half of the Rotring 800 price. They offer a pen in that body as well, if you are into that kind of thing. I like mine to be different, I have messed up drawings by grabbing a pen without looking. If you want I can send you an email with some good sites overseas that carry some cool stuff. Don't be afraid to check estate sales and consignment shops, vintage lead holders and mechanical pencils can be made to look new and can be had for cheap.


-Xander
 
I have a few pens from Pelikan, Waterman, Cross, Delta, and Aurora. Along with a Montblanc 149.


I'm not a big fan of pencils. :o
 
More people should see it this way.

Good thread, Xander, and I agree that more people may have access to the discussion this way.

Steven, I assume you are talking about the Hex-o-matic by Retro 51. It is the only one I can see being their version of a Rotring 600. If so, I have not used it and can't seem to find any real reviews. The things I look for in a drafting mechanical pencil for drafting is weight (I like them hefty), retractable tube (not a deal breaker though), build quality, and flat sides so it doesn't roll off my table. For art and edc use I like them light, round, good strong clip, prominent action (strong click) and a cone shaped nose.

The Hex-o-matic looks like a decent pencil, but could be aluminum hence the price. Still not cheap, but half of the Rotring 800 price. They offer a pen in that body as well, if you are into that kind of thing. I like mine to be different, I have messed up drawings by grabbing a pen without looking. If you want I can send you an email with some good sites overseas that carry some cool stuff. Don't be afraid to check estate sales and consignment shops, vintage lead holders and mechanical pencils can be made to look new and can be had for cheap.

Thanks for the information, I have an e-mail into them for material clarification.

Am good with pens, and have wide ranging tastes, some Montblanc, Elishewitz custom, Benchmade, Japanese brush pens, Pelikan(tend towards clickie ballpoint more than anything else, and about 10 years ago, the then-current importer was blowing out $60-$80.00 retail pens like the K200 snakeskin for $20.00, and purchased somewhere around 6 pens at that time, if I could go back, would have gotten 20), Cross, Parker, Pigma Micron, MANY Sharpies(the stainless steel refillable is fabulous, imo)....well, you get the basic idea...more of an accumulator than a collector.....not very much vintage at all, and a definitive lack of interest in fountain pens, as they really require too much maintenance and the prices for good ones are extremely high.

Anyway, the pencil thing is more of really not knowing about the Rotring 800, as the gravity feed always annoyed me, and I couldn't find a good quality drafting pencil that suited my preferences/needs and remained reasonably priced...so I sort of gave up. Your other thread kicked up the itch in my brain, so thanks for that!

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I have a few pens from Pelikan, Waterman, Cross, Delta, and Aurora. Along with a Montblanc 149.


I'm not a big fan of pencils. :o

some quality pen names you have. I know people sometimes have a hard time with the cost of some drafting/art pencils, but for me it stems from working in mechanical design in school and work ('til a few years ago, still looking to get back at it) and when you are using them all day every day you find out real quick why the good ones cost what they do. I was all excited when CalCedar re-released the Blackwing last year, and at ~$20/dozen are very pricey for wood stick pencils.

Post up some of your pens if you wish, hell I carry a Zebra F-701 with a FSP4 refill for my work related stuff, not all my pens/pencils are top level.


-Xander
 
Post up some of your pens if you wish, hell I carry a Zebra F-701 with a FSP4 refill for my work related stuff, not all my pens/pencils are top level.


-Xander

I like the Zebra pens also, could I get more info on the refill? Is it different than the standard Zebra one?

Thanks,

Bruceter
 
I like the Zebra pens also, could I get more info on the refill? Is it different than the standard Zebra one?

Thanks,

Bruceter

Sure, it is the Fisher Space Pen refill. You either have to remove the plastic bushing entirely inside the nose cone of the pen, or take it out and stretch/ream it out to fit the FSP4 refill. I also took a zebra F-402 and used the steel push button collar and push button on the F-701 to make it much nicer looking. All this can be done for less than $20. F-701 is ~$7.00, a two pack of F-402 is ~$6.00, and a FSP4 is ~$4.00. Google Zebra F-701 mod and you will find a ton of links, videos, and pics containing everything you need. The Fisher refill is much nicer writing than the Zebra cartridge, although it is a medium point. It will write in any conditions, and can fit many other pens as well.

Here is my modded Zebra. I kept the 701 nose cone and pocket clip, many people switch those out with the 402 as well. The smaller one is a compact 2mm lead holder I modified to compliment my F-701 for edc use.

2011-08-21170907.jpg



-Xander
 
I haven't used a Space pen for a while. The one I had would build up a blob of ink as I was writing and would either leave it on the paper or need to be wiped off. Do they still have that problem?

Bruceter
 
I've found they start blobbing when the cartridge is almost dry. It's almost like a warning that you'll be out of ink soon.
 
I haven't had that problem with them. This one is a new refill I only have a dozen or so pages written with it, no problems so far. I will make sure to take note in a few months when it's about time for a replacement. I used to use MB refills but found them mediocre, and recently dscovered that MB is the only maker who sells factory seconds to places like Office Max, etc. So if you are going to use MB buy them from a reputable dealer, like colorado pen.


-Xander
 
I haven't had that problem with them. This one is a new refill I only have a dozen or so pages written with it, no problems so far. I will make sure to take note in a few months when it's about time for a replacement. I used to use MB refills but found them mediocre, and recently dscovered that MB is the only maker who sells factory seconds to places like Office Max, etc. So if you are going to use MB buy them from a reputable dealer, like colorado pen.


-Xander
 
Xander, I also use the F-701 and in the past have tried to do the 402 clicky into the 701 mod, but I could not remove the clicky from the 402 without damaging it.

Last time I put 402 in the freezer for awhile as I had seen that someone else had recommended it, but was unsuccesful.
I'm thinking about trying a couple of drops of Liquid Wrench down the barrel next.

Any tips?
 
Xander, I also use the F-701 and in the past have tried to do the 402 clicky into the 701 mod, but I could not remove the clicky from the 402 without damaging it.

Last time I put 402 in the freezer for awhile as I had seen that someone else had recommended it, but was unsuccesful.
I'm thinking about trying a couple of drops of Liquid Wrench down the barrel next.

Any tips?

Yeah, the liquid wrench wont work. The metal collar is a barb/friction fit into a plastic sleeve inside the steel barrel. If you don't mind rendering your F-402 unusable, just heat the barrel about 1/2" below the collar with a lighter and it will melt the plastic and when it expands it literally push out the the clicker and everything. But by melting the plastic the old clicker from your F-701 will not fit back into the F-402 or the plastic will come out with the collar. To be able to use pliers without damaging the collar, pad the jaws with leather.


-Xander
 
Sure, it is the Fisher Space Pen refill. You either have to remove the plastic bushing entirely inside the nose cone of the pen, or take it out and stretch/ream it out to fit the FSP4 refill. I also took a zebra F-402 and used the steel push button collar and push button on the F-701 to make it much nicer looking.

I used a Fisher SPR4F, and didn't have to make any mods to the nose cone at all.....this is a very attractive and affordable mod. The plastic collar on the F-701 bothered me, so I put it up, and this thread came along at a good time, thanks!
Yeah, the liquid wrench wont work. The metal collar is a barb/friction fit into a plastic sleeve inside the steel barrel. If you don't mind rendering your F-402 unusable, just heat the barrel about 1/2" below the collar with a lighter and it will melt the plastic and when it expands it literally push out the the clicker and everything. But by melting the plastic the old clicker from your F-701 will not fit back into the F-402 or the plastic will come out with the collar. To be able to use pliers without damaging the collar, pad the jaws with leather.

I did a quick heat with a portable blowtorch and did not damage the threads in the process...very quick. Aluminum vise jaws helped hugely in this project.....don't forget to transfer the top plunger spring over to the modded 701, it takes the slop out of the pushbutton.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I used a Fisher SPR4F, and didn't have to make any mods to the nose cone at all.....this is a very attractive and affordable mod. The plastic collar on the F-701 bothered me, so I put it up, and this thread came along at a good time, thanks!


I did a quick heat with a portable blowtorch and did not damage the threads in the process...very quick. Aluminum vise jaws helped hugely in this project.....don't forget to transfer the top plunger spring over to the modded 701, it takes the slop out of the pushbutton.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

That's strange, the FSP4 refill would not fit at all in the plastic bushing in my 701. I had to stretch it out and I can still feel the refill catch occasionally when depressing th button.

Yeah a torch I think would work better than the lighter I was using, heats up the steel body quicker allowing less time for heat transfer to the plastic. I personally didn't care for the F-402 so I just melted it. I gave the other one to my wife, which she loves for kitchen use. The rubber grip helps with wet hands she says.

I have been using the red Sheaffer for a few days now and I really like it, but would love to find one with a 304 nib (fine). The medium is great on heavy high quality paper but bleeds or feathers like crazy on copy paper. The ink I am using is mediocre at best, so I may try changing that as well.


-Xander
 
I have three Waterman fountain pens. The cheapest one is the best writer, ironically, and my daily use pen.
 
Looking for some new art pens. I don't like dip pens, but do like fountain pens. I am open to suggestions, what all do you guys like and why? I mostly do quick sketching on 60-80lb paper if that helps. Doesn't have to be a fountain pen either.


-Xander
 
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