Opening frame lock knives?

tdkfm

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Oct 9, 2014
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I feel like this is probably a really dumb question, but I am going to ask anyways. Is there some trick to holding frame lock knives to open them. I feel like I can't hold a lot of them very well without pressing down on the lock bar. This is especially true with knives with a strong detent. My small sebenzas I have figured out pretty well, but I had a lionsteel TRE and have a sebenza 25 that I have hell opening easily. Until the last year or so I've carried mostly spyderco and never had this problem. I just haven't figured a good way to hold them firm enough go open without worrying about them flying out of my hand while also not pressing in the lock bar and keeping them from opening.
 
Not a dumb question at all. For some this is a real problem. One of my employees who is a knife knut has had the same problem. It took forever for us to work with him and get it figured out. It is honestly something some people just have to figure out. Typically you can tell if the problem is you or the knife by putting it in your left hand and seeing if you still have the same problem. If it opens easier left handed then the problem is definitely in the way you are holding the knife. Work with it and maybe try positioning your fingers lower down on the knife. Try different grips until you find something that works right. It might take time but it will be worth it to you when you get it right and put it to memory. It typically will carry on to all other frame locks as well!
 
This is sometimes a problem for me with smaller frame locks. I'd say it doesn't deter me from enjoying the knife, but I sold the last framelock that gave me this issue.
 
Not a dumb question at all. For some this is a real problem. One of my employees who is a knife knut has had the same problem. It took forever for us to work with him and get it figured out. It is honestly something some people just have to figure out. Typically you can tell if the problem is you or the knife by putting it in your left hand and seeing if you still have the same problem. If it opens easier left handed then the problem is definitely in the way you are holding the knife. Work with it and maybe try positioning your fingers lower down on the knife. Try different grips until you find something that works right. It might take time but it will be worth it to you when you get it right and put it to memory. It typically will carry on to all other frame locks as well!
Wow, that was very informative and helpful. Thanks so much
 
Never had that problem myself but I know some do. If you're experiencing it with CRK's too it's kind of a mystery.

The reason I leave clips on folders is to gain the extra surface areas and leverage from it to facilitate opening and closing. Maybe if you tried getting a little more leverage or position shift of your fingers by using the clip a little more? Keep working with it....surely there's a way.
 
I have a couple of frame locks. I figured it out, but the one with the clip in the tip down position required no figuring out. The clip covers the lock to where you don't bump it at all.
 
There are knives with nothing covering the frame lock bar but the clip and I have to position my fingers on the clip to avoid pressing on the framelock. This isn't as comfortable as I'd like.

A bigger problem is removing the clip for a slimmer carry and left hand opening. Then my thumb presses on the bar while trying to open. I've actually thought of flattening the clip and putting it back on.
 
Wouldn't it be nice if knife designer actually listened to knife buyers?

I'm in the camp that believes I shouldn't have to alter a long-ago learned simple process--such as accessing the blade of a one-hand opening folding knife--to accommodate a maker's design. Frame lock knives with the pocket clip over the lock bar are dumb. And, yes, I own a few and I seldom carry or use any of them anymore. Every time I pick up one of them I have to relearn how to open the knife...and every one of them requires a different finger placement. It's the main reason I prefer liner locks to frame locks and it's why I avoid buying frame lock models these days.

Of course the alternative in some cases is a flipper-opening model. But I'm not a fan of flipper-only openers either.

Wouldn't it be nice...?
 
The only 2 frame locks that I needed to 'learn' opening were both ZTs. 450 and 452. They DON'T like any pressure on the lock bar. With the 452 all that is needed, for me, is to put my middle finger in the cut out. With that position I can push all I want and the knife will fly open every time. The 450 flies open with middle finger on the clip.
I kind of enjoy 'learning' a new knife.
Don't give up, if you love the knife, you'll figure it out.
Joe
 
Not a dumb question at all. For some this is a real problem. One of my employees who is a knife knut has had the same problem. It took forever for us to work with him and get it figured out. It is honestly something some people just have to figure out. Typically you can tell if the problem is you or the knife by putting it in your left hand and seeing if you still have the same problem. If it opens easier left handed then the problem is definitely in the way you are holding the knife. Work with it and maybe try positioning your fingers lower down on the knife. Try different grips until you find something that works right. It might take time but it will be worth it to you when you get it right and put it to memory. It typically will carry on to all other frame locks as well!
This sounds like my problem. Just bought a Chaves 229 frame lock. If I’m touching the frame lock it won’t budge. Unfortunately I’m arthritic and it’s very difficult to find the right grip without touching the frame lock which seems extremely sensitive to any pressure.I have never encountered this but this is my first thumb opener with a frame lock. Really want to love this knife which is perfect in so many other ways.
 
This sounds like my problem. Just bought a Chaves 229 frame lock. If I’m touching the frame lock it won’t budge. Unfortunately I’m arthritic and it’s very difficult to find the right grip without touching the frame lock which seems extremely sensitive to any pressure.I have never encountered this but this is my first thumb opener with a frame lock. Really want to love this knife which is perfect in so many other ways.

Wow, old thread revival. May I suggest to put pressure on the clip (ring and middle finger, small finger goes behind the clip), instead of the lock ?
 
I've never had this issue, but I do think a good pocket clip can help this issue as mentioned above. If the clip is in a bad position, or flimsy, etc, it may cause you to resort to putting pressure on the lockbar. I generally dislike factory clips, and often change them out because they either make you want to not grip the knife there (hot spot) or make half the knife stick out of your pocket. An aftermarket clip could be the solution.
 
I've never had this issue, but I do think a good pocket clip can help this issue as mentioned above. If the clip is in a bad position, or flimsy, etc, it may cause you to resort to putting pressure on the lockbar. I generally dislike factory clips, and often change them out because they either make you want to not grip the knife there (hot spot) or make half the knife stick out of your pocket. An aftermarket clip could be the solution.
Thanks. I don’t think it’s the pocket clip, it’s the famous Chaves pocket clip. It’s more my arthritic oversized hands can’t seem to stay off the lockbar and generate enough torque. Also, I have to put some blame on the design, this should not be an issue for a $300 knife.
 
This sounds like my problem. Just bought a Chaves 229 frame lock. If I’m touching the frame lock it won’t budge. Unfortunately I’m arthritic and it’s very difficult to find the right grip without touching the frame lock which seems extremely sensitive to any pressure.I have never encountered this but this is my first thumb opener with a frame lock. Really want to love this knife which is perfect in so many other ways.
I don't know whether you're trying to slow-roll it open or flick it open, but my Chaves 229 has a very strong detent; it's much easier to flick open than slow-roll open. I can't imagine being able to middle-finger flick this one open. (Anecdotally, I've heard that this strong detent is by design.)

The "platypus skull" clip gives you a surprising amount of real estate for keeping fingers off the lockbar -- and it's perfectly situated to place zero pressure of its own on the lockbar. Keep at it and I think you'll get the stars to align so that you can enjoy this excellent knife. :thumbsup::)
 
Mine has a very strong detent that cannot be spydie flick no matter what. If i applied a slight pressure on the lockbar, the blade will not budge. The trick here is to put your three fingers and cling to the pocket while your thumb rides along the frame cutout and push upwards.

A bit like this:


9-A8-A44-F0-C482-4-B80-8-D47-940-CBAD61-F8-E.gif
 
The only frame lock that I own the refuses to open easily is a ZT 630. The thumb disk just doesn't do the job. I actually start the blade with the wave and then thumb it open with the disk.

My Inkosi is a tad tough to get going due to the small thumb stud/placement.
 
It varies, according to the opener device -- stud, Spydie hole, disk (Emerson) -- and how tightly the blade is adjusted. Maybe the detent has a role, too. Mostly though I open mine two-handed, gently.
 
Mine has a very strong detent that cannot be spydie flick no matter what. If i applied a slight pressure on the lockbar, the blade will not budge. The trick here is to put your three fingers and cling to the pocket while your thumb rides along the frame cutout and push upwards.

A bit like this:


9-A8-A44-F0-C482-4-B80-8-D47-940-CBAD61-F8-E.gif
When I got my first Chaves I literally spent an entire night attempting to figure out how to flip it open. After about 7 hours I came up with exactly the process Kmikaz3 demonstrates above. Man, if I’d seen this video back then it would have saved a sleepless night and a throbbing thumb!
 
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