Opinel handle treatment

M

MacCairnie

Joined
Jul 17, 2011
Messages
33
Hello all,

I've been lurking on this board for a long time, trying to learn as much as I can about traditional folder patterns. I'm looking for the perfect EDC- I do aspire to be a one-knife man- and although I've found that I like small two- or three-bladed jacks the most, my best knife right now seems to be a #8 Opinel. Anyway, I've been reading your tips about sanding the handle and treating it with linseed oil to waterproof it, but I could use some specifics about the oil. Should I brush it on? Soak it? How many times, and for how long, should I treat it? If I'm brushing it on, does an even coat matter, or will it all get soaked up anyway? Should I disassemble the knife completely before oiling the wood? I'm eager to learn about this stuff, but I really have no experience with fine woodworking, nor with knife-modding.

On a related note, I'm not used to a blade this thin. I usually strop my knives on my pulled-taut belt, but this blade is so slim, it seems really easy to mess up the angle. Any tips?

Thanks for your help- I'd appeciate any advice you can throw my way.

Mac
 
This really belongs in the Maintenance section. Most of the fellas in Traditional who are so helpful with these things also post there...
 
Of course. Sorry about that; everything I've heard about Opinel care, I've heard in the Traditional forum, so I didn't think to put this anywhere else.
 
MacCairnie said:
Hello all,

I've been lurking on this board for a long time, trying to learn as much as I can about traditional folder patterns. I'm looking for the perfect EDC- I do aspire to be a one-knife man- and although I've found that I like small two- or three-bladed jacks the most, my best knife right now seems to be a #8 Opinel. Anyway, I've been reading your tips about sanding the handle and treating it with linseed oil to waterproof it, but I could use some specifics about the oil. Should I brush it on? Soak it? How many times, and for how long, should I treat it? If I'm brushing it on, does an even coat matter, or will it all get soaked up anyway? Should I disassemble the knife completely before oiling the wood? I'm eager to learn about this stuff, but I really have no experience with fine woodworking, nor with knife-modding.

On a related note, I'm not used to a blade this thin. I usually strop my knives on my pulled-taut belt, but this blade is so slim, it seems really easy to mess up the angle. Any tips?

Thanks for your help- I'd appeciate any advice you can throw my way.

Mac
Click to expand...

I haven't used linseed oil on my Opinel, but did use something called 'Watco Danish Oil'. It's a mix of linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits. After sanding the handle to my preference, and cleaning up the dust from the handle, I used a paper towel, folded in half about 3 or 4 tiimes to make a 'pad', held it over the spout of the inverted can, and moistened it with the Danish oil. Just wiped it on the wood, in a very thin, light coat. After the initial sanding, the wood soaks it up pretty fast. I gave it some time to dry to the touch (maybe 15-30 minutes), then applied another coat in the same manner. I allowed the 2nd coat to dry/cure for 3+ days (per instructions for the Danish Oil), then applied a 3rd coat. Note, I did this to a Walnut-handled Opinel (No. 08). The standard beechwood-handled Opinel might not absorb as readily, especially if any of the factory varnish remains on the wood after sanding. The Walnut model I did isn't varnished at all, from the factory. At the very least, I'd recommend you start very light with the application; might even test the method on a piece of scrap wood first (preferably hardwood), to see how evenly it applies. I've also heard the beechwood, even unfinished, may not quickly absorb some finishes. All-the-more reason to apply the first coat very lightly and carefully. If you apply too much, and the wood doesn't absorb all of it, it can leave the finish gummy or sticky.

I removed the locking ring from mine, before applying the Danish oil. I wasn't sure, initially, if I might inadvertently 'glue' it in place with a messy application. May not be necessary, but might simplify the process somewhat. Beyond that, there's no need to disassemble the knife.

As for stropping the blade, I'd just lay the blade flush against your belt, and strop with light pressure. So long as pressure is light, there shouldn't be too much risk of rounding the edge this way. Depending upon how much micro bevel there is on your edge, you might need to carefully adjust or lift the blade's spine a little off the leather, so you're making contact at the edge. I've actually thinned my No. 08's blade, and taken it to a zero edge (no secondary or micro bevel, at all). The edge on mine is very thin, so I strop it flush to the leather. I use a strop block (leather on top of oak) for mine.
 
Hey Mac, I've been into Opinels since 1982, and I've done my share of sanding and oiling, but I don't anymore. The truth is, there's better ways to water proof your Opinel to keep it working in humid and/or wet conditions. All the sanding down and soaking in linseed oil is time consuming and does not work as well as what I was told to to do by a friend who was born and raised in France.

Now when I get a new opt, I just give it a light sanding all over, including the blade slot. Then it gets two light coats of Helmsman spar urethane inside and out. When dry, theres one more step. I was told by real French guys to grease the pivot area with Vasoline, and fold up a paper towel and wipe out the excess. It works. I do this about once a month, and my number 8 Opinel can stand in a glass of water for 20 minutes and still work fine.

I've also tried this trick with Chapstick, and it works fine. I'll use a small pointy penknife blade to smear the Chapstick in the pivot area, then wipe out with a folded up paper towel. I have a water proof Opinel. I know it sounds funny, but it really works, and you won't be fooling around with an oil soaked knife. Now when I use my Opinel for food use, I just wash it out under the faucet with no problem. :thumb up:

Carl.
 
I'm much obliged. I don't know a single other knife enthusiast in person, so I really appreciate the help I get here. I might try both of these methods out- I don't think Opinels are quite as cheap here in Canada as they are south of the 49th parallel, but they're still priced low enough that I'm not worried about experimenting. Carl, I might have expected you to come up with something as original and simple as Vaseline for greasing the pivot. Thanks again, sir, and thanks to David for the stropping advice.
 
Try to find a source for Renaissance Wax, in the US the woodworking retailer Woodcraft stocks it. Amazing stuff I use it on my Opinel's and antique blades...even great on ancient roman coins.
 
I have not bothered with this yet, since I have not found the handle swelling to be a big issue so far. But this is what I think I would do:

Disassemble knife, lightly sand off orange-y finish with 220 grit paper. Apply generous coat of 100% tung oil (available at woodcraft) thinned by half with mineral spirits. Keep applying until the wood stops soaking it up, then wipe off excess. A couple of days later, repeat with full strength tung oil. After that has dried a couple of days, I would wipe on either a varnish or epoxy (formby's "tung oil finish" a.k.a. thinned varnish, or 60 minute epoxy thinned by half with acetone) in the blade slot and on the front circular portion to effectively waterproof the pivot area. I would not put a varnish on the handle area; I prefer the oiled finish. Once the pivot area is cured (at least a week for varnish), I would apply some renaissance wax to the handle and reassemble.

I use 100% tung oil over linseed oil because it has a little more water resistance, and it has less of a yellowing effect on the wood. I would not bother staining a wood like beech since it tends to be splotchy and the grain gets obscured. If you want it darker, use a very light colored stain, preferably a dye, applied prior to the tung oil.
 
I'm a big fan of paraffin wax on these.

Melt some

Let it soak for a while until it stops bubbling into the wood

Let it dry

Enjoy
 
RebelSon said:
Melt some
Click to expand...
Oh DUDE !
This needs to come with a serious disclaimer / warning / heads up.
paraffin wax in that quantity is a SERIOUS PILE OF FUEL.
If some one uses a flame / gas burner stove they could have a grease fire mas grande.

DO THIS OUT SIDE AWAY FROM ANYTHING THAT CAN GET BURNED DOWN.
Use a portable electric burner that you can quickly unplug.

Any firemen (fire people) watching this ? What say ?
 
I guess this is as good a time as any. As many of you know I find the whole soak the Opinel in oil home remedy to prevent a brand new perfect example non flawed knife from locking up to just be beyond imagination. What if you bought a Buck 110 and found out that you couldn't open it (or close it) just because you got it a tiny bit wet ?
You'd be furious. Everybody would return their knives and Buck wouldn't have made it out of the garage, or horse barn as a company.
. . . but nooooo when it comes to the Opinel . . . all debts are forgotten . . .

anyway in my last installment (rant) I posted a #9 (yes I have several Opinels) . . . I had spent the winter rubbing a drop or two of super light instrument oil on the end grain every time I passed the thing lying on the table and I had a moment. Probably twenty applications I will have to look that post up and put a link here. I found this summer that that was enough to eliminate the cute blade lock up that we all enjoy so much if the pivot gets a single drop of water on it while cleaning off the knife (let alone heaven for bid one gets caught in a rain storm while camping or working).

From this simple ONE END ONLY minimal oil treatment I ruminated, passively and only flirtively at first, what could be gained by . . . brace yourselves . . . WD-40 ?

I then went to the shop and sprayed another Opinel , a #12 this time, with a light burst of WD; just enough to cover the end grain but not enough to saturate the pivot.
I did this six more times during that day and stopped.
I . . . until this moment had forgot about the whole deal.
I guess now is the best time as any to test 'er out.
Turn on facet
Stick pivot under the running tap.
Add some extra drops on the end for the photo
Take photo of end and drops
. . . . annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd
Easily pivots, easier than when dry. I tried it before wetting it to gauge the relative resistance once wet.
YEAAAAAAAAAAAAH !
WD-40 for the win !
(I just tried it again after loading and reducing the size of the photos and typing all this and stopping to discuss some other project with The Chef. About twenty minutes since wetting the pivot. Super easy to open and close. A total success !
enough with the verbiage . . . photo time :
IMG_5473.jpg
IMG_5472.jpg
IMG_5474.jpg
IMG_5475.jpg

I turned knife around so you can see where I put the nail nick (didn't want to mess up the factory etching).
IMG_5476.jpg
 
Last edited:
Wowbagger said:
WD-40 for the win !
(I just tried it again after loading and reducing the size of the photos and typing all this and stopping to discuss some other project with The Chef. About twenty minutes since wetting the pivot. Super easy to open and close. A total success !
Click to expand...
Nope.
I spoke too soon.
An hour later the knife had seized up a lot . I was still fingernail destroyingly able to prize it open but it now has significantly more resistance than twenty minutes in.
The thin machine oil seems to be reliable though. Placed twenty separate episodes on the end grain. I kept the knife above 70° while the oil soaked in for hours.
 
Last edited:
Just melt in a dolllop of floor wax (Johnsons works great) -- even paraffin will work -- with a heat gun or hair dryer. Work it into the slot and pivot. That's all you need to do to seal the wooden handle.
 
Wowbagger said:
Oh DUDE !
This needs to come with a serious disclaimer / warning / heads up.
paraffin wax in that quantity is a SERIOUS PILE OF FUEL.
If some one uses a flame / gas burner stove they could have a grease fire mas grande.

DO THIS OUT SIDE AWAY FROM ANYTHING THAT CAN GET BURNED DOWN.
Use a portable electric burner that you can quickly unplug.

Any firemen (fire people) watching this ? What say ?
Click to expand...
Yes, for sure take care to not vaporize any wax on an open flame heat source lol good looking out.
 
Wowbagger said:
I guess this is as good a time as any. As many of you know I find the whole soak the Opinel in oil home remedy to prevent a brand new perfect example non flawed knife from locking up to just be beyond imagination. What if you bought a Buck 110 and found out that you couldn't open it (or close it) just because you got it a tiny bit wet ?
You'd be furious. Everybody would return their knives and Buck wouldn't have made it out of the garage, or horse barn as a company.
. . . but nooooo when it comes to the Opinel . . . all debts are forgotten . . .

anyway in my last installment (rant) I posted a #9 (yes I have several Opinels) . . . I had spent the winter rubbing a drop or two of super light instrument oil on the end grain every time I passed the thing lying on the table and I had a moment. Probably twenty applications I will have to look that post up and put a link here. I found this summer that that was enough to eliminate the cute blade lock up that we all enjoy so much if the pivot gets a single drop of water on it while cleaning off the knife (let alone heaven for bid one gets caught in a rain storm while camping or working).

From this simple ONE END ONLY minimal oil treatment I ruminated, passively and only flirtively at first, what could be gained by . . . brace yourselves . . . WD-40 ?

I then went to the shop and sprayed another Opinel , a #12 this time, with a light burst of WD; just enough to cover the end grain but not enough to saturate the pivot.
I did this six more times during that day and stopped.
I . . . until this moment had forgot about the whole deal.
I guess now is the best time as any to test 'er out.
Turn on facet
Stick pivot under the running tap.
Add some extra drops on the end for the photo
Take photo of end and drops
. . . . annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd
Easily pivots, easier than when dry. I tried it before wetting it to gauge the relative resistance once wet.
YEAAAAAAAAAAAAH !
WD-40 for the win !
(I just tried it again after loading and reducing the size of the photos and typing all this and stopping to discuss some other project with The Chef. About twenty minutes since wetting the pivot. Super easy to open and close. A total success !
enough with the verbiage . . . photo time :
View attachment 973579
View attachment 973779
View attachment 973580
View attachment 973581

I turned knife around so you can see where I put the nail nick (didn't want to mess up the factory etching).
View attachment 973582
Click to expand...
Try a parrafin dip. The wax displaces the moisture...it loosened up my pivot a bit as well as the lock. I dip them up over the top of the pivot, every nook and cranny is covered.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Just melt in a dolllop of floor wax (Johnsons works great) -- even paraffin will work -- with a heat gun or hair dryer. Work it into the slot and pivot. That's all you need to do to seal the wooden handle.
Click to expand...
You caused all this, I hope you're proud of yourself. I did your method and it worked so well I decided to just dip them until they stop bubbling, 20 mins or so haha.
 
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