Opinel in carbon steel (sharpened on belt sander) ..just amazing

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boki_zca

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Puts most knives to shame in slicing performance.I sharpened it on worn out 100 grit belt and then stropped it on green compound.This thing split hair with ease and has plenty of bite to it.Still retains edge pretty well probably because of convex grind.I cut some hard wood with it and no edge deformation whatsoever.Sharp as a straight razor.Amazing.....I have never seen a knife that slices like this!Carbon steels are so easy to get razor sharp and hold edge well.
 
The gentle convex on the Opinel's thin blade is a great slicing combination. I just bought 3 No. 8 Opi's, 1 in carbon, the other two in stainless (Sandvik 12c27M). I've been doing basically the same to one of the stainless knives. Sanded and polished the blade to a zero grind at the edge, polished up through 2000 grit with wet/dry sandpaper. Same results as you've described. I'm a big believer in the grind geometry, in how a small change in shape can make a huge change in cutting performance. I really like these blades.
 
I've got a number 10 slim in 12c27 that I put an extremely polished convex on, blade spine is already less than 1mm thick. Slices like nothing else. Makes my spyderco military look like a prybar.
 
I think you'll find the fact it's an Opinel has more to do with things than the fact its carbon steel.
 
me2 said:
I think you'll find the fact it's an Opinel has more to do with things than the fact its carbon steel.
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This is what I was curious about, when I started tweaking the edge & finish on the stainless blade. Wanted to see how it'd compare to the carbon. The carbon blade does sharpen up excellently, and quickly so. But I learned for myself, the thin convex is what really distinguishes this one (Opinels in general) from others. Stainless blades usually take a little longer to attain the same degree of sharpness as the carbon. But it can get there (at least this Sandvik can), from what I've found so far. I think Opinel made a good choice, for the Sandvik, as the alternative option to the carbon. They both perform well.
 
The disgustingly sharp edge I could get on the Sandvik 12C27 for the same effort that gave an ok edge on other steels is what moved me toward that steel. I've repeated this loudly and often, but the line between carbon and stainless has been blurred for a couple decades at least. This is especially true if your definition of carbon steels includes the much higher alloy tool steels. In this case it does not, but for most people, they all get lumped together. Personally, for an Opinel, I'd have to get one of each. Traditional and shiny for under $30. Oh yea, belt sanders work very well. I've used mine on every knife I have at least once.
 
I sharpened my opinel on a stone (yes, converted to V-edge).

Epic phail. Its easy as hell to get sharp, goddamn is it ugly. Turns out that the blade doesnt have uniform thickness! Doesn't affect performance what so ever, but still i found it kinda funny.

And for seven bucks, who cares?
 
All I edc now is Opinel and few cheaper knives.Dont really use any of more expensive folders.I just like simple carbon steel for my uses...Even my Bark River bowie in 1085 perform better and gets sharper easier than any of my other knives with better steels!
 
I also edc a Douk Douk....with convexed edge.Cuts like straight razor and I beat the hell out of it.Easy to get sharp no chips .It stains easily but thats about it.Performs better than knives that cost 10x more!
 
My Opinel has earned it's place amongst my knives but , I do realize it's limitations as well , which are many...

It is a wonderful slicer, a fine example of a gentlemans folding knife.

Tostig
 
ChapmanPreferred said:
I would love to see pictures of your knives folks. Any chance?
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Here are a couple pics of my Walnut No. 8 (12C27M Sandvik blade). I've polished the blade a bit, up through 2000 grit wet/dry, plus some Simichrome stropping & polishing. You can see some remnants of the original finish, near the spine of the blade.:
 
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That is a beautiful finish David, had no idea that was under there!

I always had an Opinel as a boy in the UK (affordable for a 12yr old!). Having spent the last year on the best EDC "quest", trying everything from Spyderco's to GEC's I have (very) reluctantly come to the conclusion that the humble Opinel may be the EDC for me! Although I appreciate and admire the engineering, materials and mechanics employed in my other knives they all have a niggle when it comes to EDC use be it comfort, blade geometry or simply that small jump you do when you drop an expensive knife for the first time! No such worries with the Opinel. I have sanded mine back and left it in Linseed oil overnight. I'm careful not to leave it wet and don't use it as a pry bar but I do use quite heavily for green woodworking at times. So far no problems. Mine is the stainless version (had no idea when I purchased it, you could only get the carbon type when I was a kid) but have been really impressed. Just returned from several days wild camping, 5 pleasurable minutes on a strop and it's back to a razor!

I'm not saying the quest is over......, I'm keeping half an eye on the KSF/GEC SCagel folders with a convexed edge by Bark River. Now if they bring out a locking version of one of those.....:)
 
I just threw mine in my pocket today. Its carbon and I used it at a family BBQ a few days ago to slice potatos and cut limes for drinks. My grandma was having a hell of a time cutting the potatos with my parents sub-par cutlery and my opinel just glided right through :) I got a lovely patina on the blade as well, I set the knife aside and my mom almost washed it and I stopped her and said just let it sit for a while I'll take care of it :)
 
This is timely. Just this afternoon, I've been spending some time putting just a wee bit MORE shine on the same Opinel (pictured earlier). Even since that pic was taken, I thinned the convex at the edge just a bit more (there were still some tiny hints of the original micro-bevel), and re-polished the blade. It just KEEPS GETTING SHARPER! A great lesson in edge & blade geometry. I'm doing a little of the same to a carbon No. 8 also, though it's not quite as far along (yet). I'm really liking these elegant little knives.

Edit:
One thing I'm learning about these, the thin convex grind lends itself well to just laying the blade flush on a strop (or leather-backed sandpaper 'hone'), and sharpen away. When the edge is taken down to a zero-bevel, this makes sharpening and stropping these extremely easy, using an edge-trailing stroke. And that, by the way, also makes polishing the blade almost automatic, when done with 1000/1200/1500/2000 grit sandpaper sequence, followed by Simichrome on a strop (this is how I've done mine).
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
Edit:
One thing I'm learning about these, the thin convex grind lends itself well to just laying the blade flush on a strop (or leather-backed sandpaper 'hone'), and sharpen away. When the edge is taken down to a zero-bevel, this makes sharpening and stropping these extremely easy, using an edge-trailing stroke. And that, by the way, also makes polishing the blade almost automatic, when done with 1000/1200/1500/2000 grit sandpaper sequence, followed by Simichrome on a strop (this is how I've done mine).
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This sounds like a path I should try. :)
 
ChapmanPreferred said:
This sounds like a path I should try. :)
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I think you'll like it. :)

The little bit of convex in the blade will make it 'teeter' a bit, toward or away from the edge, on a firm backing. Focus on making sure that 'teeter' is canted toward the edge. You'll see the lower half of the blade (closest to the edge) start to polish up, while the upper half (toward the spine) won't. Sort of a cool look by itself, with the high polish near the edge, and more satin-finished in the upper half. Mine has become more polished near the spine, the more I 'mess' with it. That's OK too. ;)
 
I ran through 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000. I did not spend a ton of time on any step, so my results are less mirror like, but I will run throught the grits again when I can. Thanks for the idea. It is pretty interesting.
 
ChapmanPreferred said:
I ran through 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000. I did not spend a ton of time on any step, so my results are less mirror like, but I will run throught the grits again when I can. Thanks for the idea. It is pretty interesting.
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I've been doing mine a little bit at a time, as sort of a relaxing pasttime, when watching TV or whatever. Focused on making sure the edge was pure & sharp first, then used the 1000/2000/Simichrome to dress up the rest of it. You could probably get away with just using 800/1000 grit and higher for most or all of it, from here on, IF the scratches left from the lower grits are not too deep. Once you get the mirror you want, just use the highest grit (3000) and/or stropping/polishing with paste, to gently 'tweak' the finish from there on.
 
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