Opinel. Linseed Oil + ???

S

Scott Free

Joined
Sep 15, 1999
Messages
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Last Spring I soaked my Opinel #9 in linseed oil for four days thinking this would take care of the swelling problem in high humidity. It didn't. These past few months the blade has been almost impossible to open without pliers. I remember reading somewhere that you can cut the linseed oil with something so that it penetrates deeper into the wood, but unforunately I can't remember what. I've also been unable to find it in a search. Any ideas???
 
I'm surprised it didn't work. I'm not sure I remember right, but someone may have suggested boiling the handle in linseed oil.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
I'm surprised it didn't work. I'm not sure I remember right, but someone may have suggested boiling the handle in linseed oil.
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Er... I think you're thinking of soaking in boiled linseed oil, not boiling in linseed oil!! What's sold as "linseed oil" has a lot of volatile chemicals in it, trying to bring it to a boil would, at best, stink up your house, or at worst, lead to a visit by your local fire department!

"Boiled linseed oil" is available at your average Home Despot or Lowes. You can cut it with mineral spirit, which will make it soak in deeper, but not leave as dense of a finish on the surface.
 
Unless you removed the original Opinel laquer finish, the linseed oil won't get very far, and most likely will just gum up the works.

I just finished customizing a No.12 Opinel. When tweaking one, I sand off the original finish, including in the blade tang area; I remove all the metal parts (blade, lock collar, inner collar) from the wooden handle, which I then shape to my taste. Once I'm down to bare wood, I soak the handle in boiled linseed oil, in a zip-lock bag to avoid a mess, for two full days. After soaking, I just rub down the handle in paper towels to remove the excess linseed oil.

The first time I did a big Opinel, the oil soaking swelled the wood itself, and left the blade tight. I just sanded out the slot in the handle where the blade tang goes, and soaked it again. If it was tight before refinishing, it will likely be tight when you're done. Just don't get too carried away with the sandpaper, it's all too easy to leave yourself with a floppy, loose blade!
 
I did remove the finish before soaking. I didn't remove the inner ring or blade, though. I'll try cutting with mineral spirits. If it doesn't work, I guess I'll strip down all the metal parts. Thanks for the tips!
 
Disassembly isn't really that tough...

First, the lock ring: take a pair of needle nose pliers, with the jaws wrapped in tape to avoid marking. Grab the ring in the slot, where the raised groove is; just pull it away and forward, it should come off pretty easily.

The pivot pin can be a bear. I start with a hardened nail set. One end of the pin has a relatively small head; this is the one you work on. I use the nail set to pop the pin back through the inner collar, Once the head gets to the blade tang, though, you have to switch to something else; I use an old 3/32 drill bit to get the pivot pin through the tang. Once the pivot pin is removed, the blade an inner collar just slip off.
 
Aloha Gentlemen, I did the same thing with my opinel 8. And had the same problem. I just left the knife in the open position and forgot about it. A couple of weeks later, when I did remember about my opinel. I worked it by repetedly openning and closing it. Now it is alot easier and smoother to open. By the way,are these knives great cutters or what. Especially the price. Much Mahalo Dean
 
I've been messing around with Opinels since 1982 and I've tried the linseed oil thing, tried the sealing off with spar varnish, and tried melted wax in the joint. Of them all I found all would help in water resistance, but would not water proof them. Linseed worked the best when I would sand down the whole knife including the blade slot and the end of the wood at the collor end.I then submerged the whole thing in a plastic cup of liseed oil for a day or two. Then I let it drip for a day and started to rub it with a rag. Keep buffing till you get a nice smooth finish on the wood.

About twice a year I'll take the locking ring back off and slather a good coat of oil on it again and let it sit over night and rub it well in the morning. It's a real pain in the butt to do this, and sometimes I wonder why I bother. But like paniolo said, they ARE great cutters. I've got 3 or four hanging around at any one time so I must like them.
 
It's probably based on tradition, but I wonder why they haven't offered anything in a synthetic handle? The blade would still be the great cutter that it always has been and I can't believe that the costs should be substantially raised.
 
tim8557 said:
It's probably based on tradition, but I wonder why they haven't offered anything in a synthetic handle? The blade would still be the great cutter that it always has been and I can't believe that the costs should be substantially raised.
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This is something I have wondered many times. With the low cost of zytel on a mass produced injection molding prosess it couldnt cost but pennies difference per knife, but you would get a much stronger and more useful knife.
 
http://www.opinel-musee.com/uk/idx_couteau-uk.htm

Here you'll find disassembly guidance for your Opinel. Now where did I put those circlip pliers? Oh yes, toolbox.

Place the snap ring pliers into the slot of the lockring and spread. The ring comes off with a small amount of spread. I just did this for the first time myself and it worked for me. If you do this with the blade closed it would eliminate the chance of cutting yourself should the pliers slip under stress.

With the lockring off you can go to work: pressure wash, solvents, spread metal collar with a flat-bladed screwdriver (take care not to split the wooden handle), blowtorch, apply blunt force trauma with a bludgeon and buy another one since yours is now in pieces :D .

Why not disassemble completely, make your own handle (using the wooden one as a template) out of your favorite material. Maybe whittle the wooden handle into an original work of art (French national pastime). Reassemble and take some pics for your pals on BladeForum :o .

Your wish is my command. Here is a plastic handled lockring knife: http://www.coutellerie-facosa.com/anglais/frameset.htm (Click on "NEWS") Cutlerytogo & EverestGear sells these in the US.

All the best,

oregon
 
oregon said:
http://www.opinel-musee.com/uk/idx_couteau-uk.htm
Click to expand...

Hold on...before any disassembly -
try just drying the knife.......

Basically anything that will swell the wood (that's obviously water moisture - but could well be any type of OIL too) is not a good thing on Opinels.

Then use the link above and click on

functioning [/font](you can use this direct link too)

QUOTE:
" If the blade is difficult to open inspite of "le coup du savoyard" (knocking the end of the handle on the edge of the table), without doubt this is due to humidity; dry the knife on a radiator and lubricate the main joint with liquid wax or vaseline oil.

As a general rule, never leave the knife in a humid environment."
Drying the knife on a radiator is kind of drastic, and in this hot summer/autumn period, one probably would not want to turn on any central HEATING!

Gentle use of a hair dryer can do this in a hurry - but be careful - too hot too fast could warp or crack the wood.

Placing the knife somewhere warm and DRY - a wood kiln, old fashioned airing cupboard would be much better. Hopefully that will make the knife open easier - then lube the knife with the suggested vaseline/petroleum jelly that does not soak into the wood as much......

--
Vincent
http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/
 
tim8557 said:
It's probably based on tradition, but I wonder why they haven't offered anything in a synthetic handle? The blade would still be the great cutter that it always has been and I can't believe that the costs should be substantially raised.
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Actually they have been made in plastic and in horn.

From page 89 in "Collectible Pocket Knives" by Dominique Pascal, originally published as "La Folie des Couteaux de Poche", 2001 by Flammarion, Paris:

"The handle of this Opinel looks as it were made of carbon fiber, but this is merely the decoration. In fact it is made of ABS plastic. The knife has a stainless blade and is finished with a safety ferrule in the distinctive Opinel shape."
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For the horn models:

http://www.opinel-musee.com/the_shop/gifts/horn_handle_range/index.html

Luis
 
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