Opinions on a Brown & Sharpe mill

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Feb 23, 2017
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Been starting to think about a mill. (Not really ready to jump in as of yet.) Really wanted to look for a deal on a mini mill for knife and hobby type work. Came across this.

Having some experience in restoration, the labor alone to restore this thing has to be worth what he's asking. Any opinions?
 
That is a very nice mill, but it's a horizontal with a vertical attachment.
I'd rather have a straight vertical mill.
 
I agree with Don... While it's a very nice mill, and COULD certainly be used for knife making, for $1800 I'd hold out for newer vertical bridgeport (or similar) with r8 tooling. A DRO would be a plus as well, but not entirely necessary to start. I'm sure it's a very nice and capable machine, but there's going to be a bit of a higher learning curve than just jumping right into a standard vertical machine, and tooling is going to be a little more of a pain find and use with those tapers vs. more standard r8.
 
They're really cool mills, and the price is great, considering the accessories and the shape. *However* this is a very versatile, but advanced mill. It's also only desirable to enthusiasts of big old machine tools. Thus the price.

If all you want a mill for is to learn to slot guards and other typical knife related tasks, you're likely to end up very overwhelmed, and never using this machine.

For somebody like me, that uses a mill more for general machining or fab work than knife work, I'd be all over it, I've long wanted to add a horizontal to my arsenal as I know what they're good for (read: nothing related to making knives), but if you were in the market for a mini mill, I'd stick with that. The learning curve is much lower, you can move it around if as your shop layout evolves easily, and you won't have any special space or power requirements.

A universal of this configuration has so many adjustable parts, that you'll likely be encountering all sorts of problems with them not being perfectly aligned. Tilting head, swivel table, etc, all has to be perfectly indicated if you want to be able to make square or parallel parts, and cut a square and perpendicular slot. Not just lined up to some mark, but indicated to sub-thousand of a inch accuracy, etc.
 
If I had no mill, and needed to make a choice between buying this one or a new import benchtop mill, I'd go with this one every day of the week. If, as Stacy says, it's actually tight under that nice paint job. It will do so much more and take such better more rigid cuts. Plus it's a real looker and comes with a fair bit of tooling.
Yes, it's a bit complicated for the neophyte to comprehend but sounds like the guy won't mind showing an interested party some of the basics.
The downside with it is that it can't be used like a drill press, like a BP can, which is a nice all rounder feature in that type of knee mill. You could still use it to drill precision holes (i.e. folder blades) by cranking the knee. Most other holes in knifemaking are fine left to a good drill press.
Do be aware though that B&S #7 tooling is pretty rare, and is no longer made. If there's a full set of collets though, you can get by quite well with buying all your cutters and tooling with straight shanks. My mill has a B&S #9 spindle taper and that's what I do.
 
This is a hard one for me to answer.
On one had if I saw that on my local Craigslist it would already be in my shop.

On the other hand, I'd never recommend an early flat belt drive horizontal mill with obsolete tooling to a knifemaker looking for their first milling machine.
A few things to keep in mind. First of all is tooling. If you need something it doesn't come with, you're hunting on eBay. And it will not be as cheap as R8 or cat40/50. Obsolete tapers are never anything except s nightmare.
Second is evaluating the machine. Its easy to slap a coat of paint on a heap, resellers do it all the time. An experienced machinist can go over it with an indicator and get a reasonable idea of how the machine is, someone new really can't.
The third (and biggest) issue is spindle speed. Old and large machines are SLOW. Small cutters (of the sort we use in knife work) need fast. Running tiny endmills too slow is a good way to break tooling and get a crappy cut.

For the majority of knife work, you really want either a mini mill or a Bridgeport.
Even with the high speed head, those horizontal/vertical mills (apart from a tiny one such as a schaublin 13 or a deckel fp1) will just be too slow and cumbersome for what the average knifemaker does.
 
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