Opinions on bench stones.

L

LHD

Joined
Feb 9, 2006
Messages
320
Money aside which would you buy for the most versatility, a set of waterstones or spyderco alumina-ceramics?

I can get either one at a decent price. I'm really leaning toward the spyderco stones unless there is a reason not to get them I think theyre what I want.

Thanks.
 
For real versatility, the HandAmerican Scary Sharp system beats any other 'system'. It scores well on comparative system price also. The cost of individual stones required to emulate the grit-range of available abrasive papers is a bit high.

I love the Spyderco ceramic stones, but even the coarsest Spyderco stone is really a finishing grade stone. Re-profiling a blade with any Spyderco ceramic stone is really an unpleasant chore.

The only stones I use now are DMT coarse diamond stone for profiling, Spyderco Brown ceramic and Spyderco DoubleStuff ceramic combination. Considering the grit-range of abrasive papers, all of those stones could really be left in a drawer somewhere.

I like everything about the Spyderco ceramic stones, except the limited grit-range. My DMT diamond hone is now optional, easily replaced by a strip of abrasive paper.

Just a thought.
 
Very good question, and hard for me to answer. I’ve come to like different types for different reasons. Right now I use a cheap hardware store black silica carbide hone for my coarse work. I believe it’s the best bang for my $. I like to press hard and grind fast for coarse work. In the medium grits I like Japanese water stones, they still cut/grind fast and water is free to use with them. My favorite one is the Shapton 1000. I haven’t yet got any really fine Japanese stones, mainly because of cost. I use the Spyderco ceramics for fine/finishing work. They are very clean/fast to use, no water no oil, just uncover and use. I surly wouldn’t use them for anything but finishing work. Very good price and performance.
 
I really find it easy and efficient to finish off my sharpening on a Spyderco Sharpmaker. On the other hand you really need something else for gross sharpening on damaged, duller, or badly profiled blades. I use a cheap belt grinder for much of that work. It costs less than 100 dollars. Another thing you could consider is a Norton 220/1000 grit combination waterstone. It is coarser (and costs less) than the equivalent Japanese waterstones so I would not consider the 1000 grit as suitable for a finished edge. It would work well if you sent from the 1000 grit to a Sharpmaker setup.
http://www.cutleryandmore.com/details.asp?SKU=2112
 
If I want a good edge quick nothing beats the Sharpmaker for me. If I want to spend some time and enjoy the sharpening process, I prefer waterstones due to their feel. It is really up to you: If you simply want a shaving edge in no time, Sharpmaker all the way.

I would always supplement the Sharpmaker with a coarse diamond stone to reset an edge or thin out the edge.
 
LHD,
I had used the spyderco stones for a while, but switched back to whetstones (with oil). With a whetstone, you can really feel when the burr has come off, and you are finaly polishing metal. True, the sharpmaker may be fast, but if you want a slick polished edge, use a very fine whetstone.
 
I'm a big fan of the Spyderco benchstones. They clean up quickly with some Comet cleaner and a green Scotchbrite scrub pad. They are easy to use since they don't require water or oil.

I'm lazy and the Spyderco stones work for me.
 
Water stones won't last nearly as long as ceramic. I use diamond then finish it off with a Spyderco ceramic.
 
I like and use the Spyderco Sharpmaker for my kitchen knives but when I need to take off some heavy metal and/or freehand sharpen my utility and wilderness knives the best benchstones I've found yet are Razor Edge coarse and fine hones. I use them dry (don't like the mess of stones that require water or oil) and have a vacuum cleaner next to me to quickly clean them off when they need it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top