Opinions on KME guided sharpener?

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Jul 20, 2012
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I have been contemplating on getting a guided sharpener as a side option in addition to my freehand sharpening. Reasons for getting it aside, I have been looking into the KME knife sharpener. It seems like a solid system with angles as low as 9 degrees per side if you invert the rod pivot. This will be something used primarily for sharpening small folding knives like slip joints. To anyone who has used the KME sharpener can you give me feedback as to how it's been working for you and how well it handles different blade geometries (clip point, large bellies) and small knives? I'm very interested in this sharpening system, but before I make any big purchases I need to make sure it's right for me.

- BN
 
I have one and love it. I highly recommend it. If you have any questions you can actually call the company and talk to the owner, Ron Swartz. Great guy who won't try to upsell you. In fact, if you are trying to buy a bunch of stone sets at once he will probably tell you to start with basics and once you are rolling with those add things in.

I freehanded my traditionals and most anything in the carbon steel and 440 - 420HC range on an Arkansas Tri-Hone set for several decades. Then I tried the Edge Pro, which is a fine system, but just not for me. I like having the knife clamped. Where with the bench stones the stone stayed in place and the knife moved, the KME is similar, except the knife is still and the stones move. On the Edge Pro you are trying to hold the knife and move the stones at the same time. Works great for many folks, but I just could not get into it.

If you are going to do a lot of pen knives and peanut sized folders, then you will want the Pen Jaws. With the current standard jaws you can do regular pocket knives. I use the standard jaws with my Case mini-trapper. With the pen jaws you can easily handle any traditional pocket knife. Once you get into heavy blades or long ones then the standard jaws work better.

Using a little trick I first saw on a Dean O video you can get do up to about a 9-10" kitchen knife, but past that you run out of room on the pivot. I've sharpened a 9" vintage Zwillings chef's knife no problem and it came out very nice.

For starting out on slipjoints you could go with the ceramic stone set, but I would go with the basic three Gold diamonds (Coarse/300, Fine/600. and XFine 1500) and a kangaroo strop with the 4 micron CBN emulsion on it. Seriously sharp, clean bevels, and it doesn't take hours to get there. Some guys will go to a black or translucent Arkansas after the 1500 just to smooth things and put a little polish (not an 8 level progression of Chosera polish mind you) then strop with the CBN.

The trick with the diamonds, as with any sharpening surface, is to go lightly. Don't heavy hand. But you probably already know that. I usually lightly spritz my diamonds with a little water with a drop of dish soap in there to break surface tension as I go. I find it keeps the diamonds cleared a little better and combined with a light touch and a little more time spent getting out the previous grit's scratch pattern I end up with a nice finish that depending on the steel looks like a smooth matte finish to a semi-gloss.

Like any new thing there is a slight learning curve, but it's just a matter of going, "Oh yeah. Don't do that." It may just be learning to go a little lighter, how best the set the knife in the jaws, or learning how to manage the tip without rounding it off (something you have to learn with any system).

When you want to take thing farther you can get Chosera waterstones for the KME and I believe Ken Scwartz is now cutting Shapton Pros for the KME as well. In addition to the kangaroo strops you can get nana-cloth strops as well. Additionally, Ron is always looking at ways to improve and expand what the system can do.

When anyone asks me what of the KME stuff I'd start with I would say the KME with the Gold diamond set, I like the optional base, but don't always use it, and a kangaroo strop with 4 micron CBN to finish. The next thing I would add would be either a XXC/100 or XC/140 Gold diamond before even considering adding waterstones or other strops.

One of the key things so many people mess up on is not realizing that you absolutely have to get the edge sharp on the first stone. Everything after is refinement. If you have a blade that either doesn't actually have an apex, that doesn't have both bevels actually meeting, then the 300 stone may still be to fine for starting out and will take way too long to get the two sides together. If you aren't getting that edge within a few minutes on the 300 or you have thick spots along the edge, the 140 or 100 are where you need to be for cutting and evening out that bevel. Then back to the 300 and on.

You probably know most of this already, but I figured put it out there for anyone considering the KME or any system in case it might be helpful.

I have a couple of bench waterstones, various bench strops, and of course my old Arkansas oilstones, and even a HF 1x30 belt sander with 4 different grits of sharpening belts and 3 leather stropping belts. The KME is the first thing I reach for to sharpen pocket and sheath knives for me and for others.
 
Amos covered things pretty well, so I'll just add that I have a KME and love it too. Totally worth the price of admission. :thumbup: I also agree that Ron runs a fantastic company. Top notch all the way. :cool:
 
My KME is relatively new to me and I think it's fantastic. I've tried to learn to sharpen well using bench stones and/or a 1" belt sander for various types of knives. Now I just want to use the KME and I'm getting great results with a fairly small learning curve. Thanks Amos Iron Wolf for the great info above. I spent a lot of time reviewing the Dean O vids on YouTube before I bought the KME. I'm grateful to those of you who always seem willing to offer up your experience to help the rest of us. I've started with the basic stones plus the Arkansas translucent and while I'm getting good results I'm about ready to order the diamond stones. I immediately bought an angle cube too...they're inexpensive and very useful. I fretted over the purchase of a KME too, wondering which of the sharpening systems I should try. I just don't see how you can go wrong with a KME for the money. If you don't like it you can sell it in about 5 minutes on this forum.;)
 
Iron Wolf's comments and experience reflect my views exactly--nice synopsis brother! The only thing I would add is what mbay1455 said and that is to throw an angle cube into the mix, especially if you flip the pivot over to achieve lower angles, it is handy to have the angle cube to know what you are ending up with for an angle. I totally agree with the KME being the best value in a guided sharpening system out there.
 
See post about removing rust from a collectable knife thread for my responce,sorry.
 
Plus one on the Angle Cube. I actually use and old HTC EVO Android phone with an app. Probably not as precise as the Angle Cube, but even that can be off if you don't use it right. I like the old EVO because it has all the buttons on one side so I don't keep turning the screen off when I'm trying to find and angle.

I just zero the app on the base of the KME then set the edge of the phone along the back of the stone holder. I'm trying to get into a narrow range of bevel angle for the task I'm sharpening for and not worrying over tenths of degrees.

With any guided system you have two things to keep in mind. First, the marks for the angle settings are a guide, not an absolute. How the knife is placed in the clamp, or in the case of the Edge Pro, on the table of the EP. The same knife placed in deep then placed further out will have a difference of angle with the same setting on the machine.

Second, bevel angles will change slightly along the edge from heel to toe. Where in freehand sharpening even the steadiest hand will have some play and variation since we aren't machines, in the guided systems the angles change slightly because the distance changes. By that I mean that if you set an angle with everything centered, blade centered lengthwise in the clamp (on the table for the EP) then as you move to the rear and the front, especially along the belly near the tip, the geometry changes just slightly and the angle is a little thinner. In other words you won't get 21.250 degrees per side at every point along the blade. But you won't be changing in full degrees either. Ben Dale of Edge Pro has pointed out that since we tend to do more slicing with that forward part a tiny bit of thinning isn't a bad thing either in terms of performance. I agree. It may give those who lay awake at night agonizing over a not being within .001 +/- degree of perfection, but for anyone actually cutting stuff and using a knife, it's no worry at all.

Great to see other KME users and fans. The system itself is great, but the guy who is KME, Ron Swartz, just makes it even better. The man puts in a LOT of hours each day taking care of not just the order materials, make, sell part of the business, but the people side as well. Even up to his elbows in alligators he still takes time to talk to customers. So if you try to call and go to voicemail he's probably talking to someone else, but will call you back. That personal involvement and touch just makes me appreciate the KME even more.

That's not so rare though in this game. Ben Dale has the same reputation. He will talk to you, help you, and offer you tips and ideas. Ken Schwartz, the alchemical wizard and purveyor of all things abrasive, from emulsions with very tight tolerances to natural Japanese waterstones, is also reachable by phone and can make your head spin with how much he knows about edges, materials, and things sharpening and polishing. I'll pass the same note along that was given to me. If you call Ken, have some time to talk. ;)

Like the folks here who are quick to help and will take the time to think about an issue you raise (they're always seeking to learn and problem solve) a lot of the folks that provide the gear we use are the same way. That's the joy of working with homegrown folks who are not just in business, but in business because they are passionate about what they do. KME, Edge Pro, and Wicked Edge started out as sharpeners trying to enhance their own sharpening or solve/improve a particular issue. They were sharpeners first.
 
Yeah I understand bevel inconsistencies. I've been freehand sharpening for a year and a half and I can get hair whittling results most of the time. Still need a little technique improvement, but good results nonetheless. I just wanted a guided system as a side option for convenience and some consistency. Anyhow thanks for the feedback guys.
 
Not much I can add here other than I too have a KME system and it is outstanding. Ron is also an incredible guy who will take your call any time to assist with questions or just shoot the sh!t with.

I can't recommend the KME highly enough.
 
Ditto on all the praises people have already made about the system and Ron both! He is really a terrific guy and very open to answering any questions! I was fine with the ceramics for most of my steels-particularly my RC-4 favorite hunting knife but recently bought the basic three Gold diamonds (Coarse/300, Fine/600. and XFine 1500) for two M390 knives I recently purchased. Talk about not upselling-Ron said I could just get the 300 and just use the ceramics I already had to finish! Such a nice experience that I ended up buying all 3 stones, a strop and some 4 micron! The KME may or may not be the best, but it certainly the best for the money in my opinion!
 
Agree on the gold series diamond stones. They are amazingly good and durable. I too got a strop with the 4mu compound and it took my blades to a whole new level of sharpness. The accessories for the KME system are priced such that they won't break the bank.
 
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I bought my KME a few months ago and would agree 100% with the opinions of the previous posters. I would suggest that you get the Gold series Diamond Hones, they seem to me to work the best. If you have a concern or a question, Ron will do his best to address it, that is a major plus for KME. I could not be happier with the KME or Ron's support.
 
I just re profiled a cpm s90v blade back to 30deg inclusive with my KME with gold series diamond stones and they made VERY short work of it. Moved to the clear Arkansas stone and then the leather strop with 4 micron compound and I swear I can spilt atoms with my edge!
 
I just re profiled a cpm s90v blade back to 30deg inclusive with my KME with gold series diamond stones and they made VERY short work of it. Moved to the clear Arkansas stone and then the leather strop with 4 micron compound and I swear I can spilt atoms with my edge!

I don't think the Arkansas stone can cut s90v? I freehand sharpen and even my shapton glass waterstones have trouble with s110v steel, only diamonds work well. Are you just burnishing the edge then? Also thanks for all the feedback guys. I can't afford to buy a KME right now, but it is definitely in mind for future purchases.
 
I'll be honest, I went straight to diamonds. Ive never messed with Arkansas stones do I can't comment. As far as my s90v blade goes, I was setting a new primary bevel at 30deg and then gave it a 40deg micro bevel. She's sharp!
 
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