Opinions On Screw In Tang Construction Wanted

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huntingsgr8

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May 25, 2015
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So, what I mean is a tang that is made separate from the knife itself, and threaded into the blade at the bolster. Basically a rod, and for hidden tang construction only. I've been forging some 7/8" O1 rod I picked up into what will be a 10" chef's knife with an integral bolster. Since I'm doing all the forging manually, I've been dreading the necessary time and propane to get the tang drawn down, not to mention the risk of breaking a threading die when the time comes to set the handle.

I've been thinking about just cutting the knife at the bolster, drilling/tapping/threading a mild steel rod into it, tacking it, then threading the other end to take a pommel. It has the feel of a sleazy, corner cutting measure, but I can't convince myself that a threaded tang 5/16"-3/8" in diameter, could be detrimentally weak on a chef's knife. At the same time, I don't hear of it as being common practice, so I'm led to believe on gut feeling alone, that I'm missing something.

Would a knife constructed as outlined be prohibitively weak, or carry a functional flaw, or some such issue?
 
I would forge out a rat's tail for through tang,threaded then or peened
Rat's tails forge out much faster and less effort than blade
Next time forge tang as you forge blade,much less chance of cracking,o1 loves to crack where bolster meets blade
And post some pics when done
 
You are correct that this idea has been done before on commercial knives. I think most folks find it a cheaper way to make a knife, and also consider it lesser quality.

Your idea will create a weak spot as well as a potential spot for corrosion. The weakness will be rather minor, but the corrosion could be major over time.
 
Moisture will somehow get past the bolster and down in the socket where the extension is anchored. I know you will try your best to make the joint water tight, but even if it has to travel through the wood it will eventually get there. It will then slowly start corrosion of the joint.

We see similar issued when rebuilding/rehandling old kitchen and other knives - when you pull off the scales and find serious rust and corrosion.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Moisture will somehow get past the bolster and down in the socket where the extension is anchored. I know you will try your best to make the joint water tight, but even if it has to travel through the wood it will eventually get there. It will then slowly start corrosion of the joint.

We see similar issued when rebuilding/rehandling old kitchen and other knives - when you pull off the scales and find serious rust and corrosion.
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That is correct but they not have used epoxy , just rivets....Epoxy will seal metal from moisture
 
huntingsgr8 said:
So, what I mean is a tang that is made separate from the knife itself, and threaded into the blade at the bolster. Basically a rod, and for hidden tang construction only. I've been forging some 7/8" O1 rod I picked up into what will be a 10" chef's knife with an integral bolster. Since I'm doing all the forging manually, I've been dreading the necessary time and propane to get the tang drawn down, not to mention the risk of breaking a threading die when the time comes to set the handle.

I've been thinking about just cutting the knife at the bolster, drilling/tapping/threading a mild steel rod into it, tacking it, then threading the other end to take a pommel. It has the feel of a sleazy, corner cutting measure, but I can't convince myself that a threaded tang 5/16"-3/8" in diameter, could be detrimentally weak on a chef's knife. At the same time, I don't hear of it as being common practice, so I'm led to believe on gut feeling alone, that I'm missing something.

Would a knife constructed as outlined be prohibitively weak, or carry a functional flaw, or some such issue?
Click to expand...
If I understand you correctly you want to do this ? If that is what you want to do , I will add two more small pins ......
brAmfcy.png
 
huntingsgr8 said:
I see, would a clear coat solve that issue? Or jeese, maybe chemically nickel plating the joint?
Click to expand...
You don t need to do anything more then someone else who make that knife where tang is integral part of blade/steel.
You are working on some kind of hidden tang knife ? How are made knife with hidden knife where tang is part of blade ? I don t see any difference around the problem of rusting between your way and other way..tang is tang and is INISIDE wood filled with epoxy .
 
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It's going to be more work trying to do what you're planning than forging a tang and all to achieve an inferior end product
 
www.Westsystem.com 24 hr two part epoxy. They put together & repair boats & seaplanes with it! I’ve used it for my Culinary knives for 20 years and never had a failure. Seals out the moisture like Stacy was talking about. Do not use 5 min epoxies. They can fail in a few years.
 
Rat tails is pretty much exclusive I make. Sometimes I will forge it entirely, Just as often I draw it out about 25-33% of the way then weld on round stock for threading or peening on a pommelcap. Especially so if its an expensive patternweld, I dont want to waste good material inside the handle.

Its important to radius and taper the tang to blade junction, much like an ordinary file tang.
I dont worry about corrosion. The joint is bedded with epoxy and finished with polymerising oil.
Any water intrusion will be lack of care and take decades before any problem arise regardless.
 
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