Opinions Please - Wet Wheel Grinder

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general38

Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
24
Hi,
I love sharpening knives and have done most of my sharpening by hand. However i need a decent way to create relief angles on my larger bowie type knives and was looking at several wet grinder units available on the market. Most were around $200 to $400 and then i came across this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WET-DRY-BENCH-GRINDER-SHARPENER-NEW_W0QQitemZ370074405970QQihZ024QQcategoryZ3247QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262

Does anybody think this would do the job for grinding CONSISTENT relief angles? (I would probably have to make my own angle jig) If so what does it have missing compared to the other higher priced low speed grinders that cost so much?

Opinions of people experienced with wet wheel sharpeners would be greatly appreciated.
 
The higher priced grinders come with the angle guides and a better stone. I think the wet stone that comes on that would probably do more harm that good on a properly sharpened blade.
 
When learning to sharpen, I used an inexpensive (~$50 US) wet grinder for a while. It was messy, and didn't do what I needed it to.
 
Sears used to have a small table top wet grinder. The wheel is about 3" wide. It does not have much torque but works well and is very portable. I have been using one for years, it works faster than hand methods when re-profiling.
 
I'll 2nd the Sears model. Great for sharpening all the poor quality kitchen knives that friends want sharpened.

Really great like Soleil said for re-profiling!
 
Several years ago I decided that I wanted to move from manual sharpeners to a Tormek. With the jigs you can put a "factory looking" edge on your best knives. With a little practice you can get a razor edge in just a few minutes on the dullest knife...
sharpeningservice003bq3.jpg
 
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WhitleyStu said:
Several years ago I decided that I wanted to move from manual sharpeners to a Tormek. With the jigs you can put a "factory looking" edge on your best knives. With a little practice you can get a razor edge in just a few minutes on the dullest knife...
Click to expand...

Question on that: I've heard some comments that it is difficult to do smaller blades on the Tormek. Things like a slipjoint with a 2 1/2" blade. Could you comment on that?
 
knarfeng said:
Question on that: I've heard some comments that it is difficult to do smaller blades on the Tormek. Things like a slipjoint with a 2 1/2" blade. Could you comment on that?
Click to expand...

My Queen/Dan Burke blade only measures .440" at the widest part of the main blade and it is easy to fasten in the knife jig. I have read this statement before about not being able to sharpen narrow blades, but have not had any problems. Maybe the secondary blade on a very small knife might be close, but there are ways to get around this issue. If you plan to sharpen many small blades a grind or mill job to thin the jig jaws can be done or just let the wheel remove a little material when sharpening the small blades...
 
WhitleyStu said:
Several years ago I decided that I wanted to move from manual sharpeners to a Tormek. With the jigs you can put a "factory looking" edge on your best knives. With a little practice you can get a razor edge in just a few minutes on the dullest knife...
sharpeningservice003bq3.jpg
Click to expand...

I looked at the Tormek as well (LOVE IT), but being in Australia the import costs + the device add up to quite a sum. The knives I use are mainly for pig hunting, ie dogs find the pig and we tackle the pig by hand and knife for a swift kill. The types of knives we use are mainly 10-12 inch stickers or narrow bowie (its illegal to own daggers here without a special license). While 25 degrees works, 20 with a 15 degree relief is better (easier to sharpen in the field and better penetration). I found another device recommended by the supplier...... what do you think about this device....http://toolman.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=163
 
general38 said:
I looked at the Tormek as well (LOVE IT), but being in Australia the import costs + the device add up to quite a sum. The knives I use are mainly for pig hunting, ie dogs find the pig and we tackle the pig by hand and knife for a swift kill. The types of knives we use are mainly 10-12 inch stickers or narrow bowie (its illegal to own daggers here without a special license). While 25 degrees works, 20 with a 15 degree relief is better (easier to sharpen in the field and better penetration). I found another device recommended by the supplier...... what do you think about this device....http://toolman.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=163
Click to expand...
You will not get the same degree of edge quality with that type of grinder. It is for planner blades (blades with no cruves). Tormeks are sold all over the world (made in Sweden) so you might find a dealer closer than you think. Just did a Google search and found several Tormek dealers in Australia.
 
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Thanks for that, I found the Tormek supplier in Australia, however they want 1,000(au) dollars for the same machine (T7) that costs 540(au$) in USA. Does the Tormek support dual voltage? For example our mains is 240 volt where as in the US its 110 volt. I know the plug would be different but normally the grinder would specify 110/240V on the casing. Also as a matter of interest, how do you handle the knife clip point when grinding using the guides? Thanks again!:)
 
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WhitleyStu said:
My Queen/Dan Burke blade only measures .440" at the widest part of the main blade and it is easy to fasten in the knife jig. I have read this statement before about not being able to sharpen narrow blades, but have not had any problems. Maybe the secondary blade on a very small knife might be close, but there are ways to get around this issue. If you plan to sharpen many small blades a grind or mill job to thin the jig jaws can be done or just let the wheel remove a little material when sharpening the small blades...
Click to expand...

Good to know. I've been looking at them for a while. If I get a bonus next year I think I know what part of it will go toward.
 
general38 said:
Does the Tormek support dual voltage? For example our mains is 240 volt where as in the US its 110 volt. I know the plug would be different but normally the grinder would specify 110/240V on the casing. Also as a matter of interest, how do you handle the knife clip point when grinding using the guides? Thanks again!:)
Click to expand...

I can't address the electrical issue as I have no experience with your power supply. If I understand your second question, you are asking how to grind up to the tip? On the Tormek web site there are several short vids that show how to use each grinding jig. I always blacken both sides of the edge so I can see how close to the point I am grinding. I never grind all the way to the point until I have both sides of the edge ground then on the final pass I slowly go up to the point as the tip area needs the least stock removal. I pull the blade across the wheel and when the tip/point is above the wheel I lift up on the handle and grind up the point. It is hard to explain until you see it done on the video or at a demo of the machine. Over on the Yahoo Tormek group I occasionally see people sell their machines as they just can't seem to get the feel for knife sharpening, but most rave about the edges they can achive in no time. I hope this answers your question. PM me if I can be of help on any other issues...
 
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