Options for restoration CGFBM

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UWonBiDVD

Joined
Jun 21, 2015
Messages
3
Hey all,

my first post here, but I've used the forum for reference a number of times previously.

I own the following knife. I'm looking for options to restore it to something special again. Mainly sorting the discoloration. How would sand / shot blasting work? For the LIFE of me, I simply cannot seem to hand finish the thing myself, and the dark coloring in the recesses simply won't budge.

As for the edge, it's seen a lot of action including home tree pruning, felling tree's and also battening through rusty bolts on my parents Anderson Air-Raid shelter which we excavated from their garden last year (because, well, the Busse can!). I'll handle the edge myself which is a convex I put on there a few years back. I lent it to my father a while ago and he accidentally left it in the garden so that explains some of the weathering I guess.

Thoughts? I'm guessing that shot blasting won't work on the sides of the tang as it might hurt the micarta? If there is a hand restoration process I should consider, I'm all ears!

NbbFEvz.jpg


Many thanks up front.

-UWon-
 
You could tape the handle and blast the blade. Or you can get in the grooves with a Qtip or eraser.

I think it looks great the way it is now. If I just wanted it to shine a little more, I'd try black compound in some mineral oil pretty pasty with a Qtip.
 
First off...Welcome to the boards!

Secondly...I think it looks great as is...I'd sharpen the secondary and let her rip...but I'm not the owner and you've already stated you wanted it "restored..."

You might consider the option of sending it in to Busse for factory restoration...

Or, if you want to go the DIY route, what's worked for me in somewhat similar situations...I've started off with a Dremel with some of those ScotchBrite like little abrasive wheels-- they make a couple of grits-- start off with the most aggressive, but with light pressure...

They will leave behind a kinda "ghostly" sheen but hand sanding will even that out...

If that don't budge the patina, try a wire brush for the Dremel...the brass & metal ones will leave behind a patina themselves but it can be polished off...they make a stainless steel wire brush with will not leave behind as much, if any, residue, you can try that option as well....once again, a light touch is best.

Then work your way through wet/dry sandpaper grits starting off with about 400 thru 1200 ( I've even went to 2000 on a couple of my TGLB's ). I've found using a good brand like 3M and doing it by hand will yield the best results on the CBT's. I would not advise using the rotary tool with sandpaper or grinding stones on the primary grind or CBT's...you could mar the finish really quickly...keep it hand to hand combat.

I then use some Mother's Chrome Polish and buff it off.

I personally like to finish with 2 or 3 treatments of Frog Lube.

Works for me...embark on your venture at your own risk & liability! :eek:

As previously stated, a Busse spa treatment will yield the best results...but where's the fun in that? :confused:

Good luck and post some "in progress" restoration pics! :)

***last min. edit*** I wouldn't touch the handles, they're OUTSTANDING looking just as they are, IMHO!!! :D :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
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I'm firmly in the leave it alone camp. I got this old Horton recently with some honest wear and beautiful patina. Started to clean up one side of it, and decided I was ruining the beauty by cleaning it. So now I leave them alone.

IMG_0568_zpsztaxw9j8.jpg


But if you insist on making it pretty. Blasting is probably the quickest/easiest method, especially with the CBT's. Horton used to call it "dirty satin."
 
As the Russian cosmonaut in the movie Armageddon said, "touch nothing!"
Option B: I'll be happy to take it if your hands!
 
If you don't like the dark decarb in the low spots there that can also rust it is easy to clean up. Scotchbrite pads, or preferably a wheel type disc you can use on a bench grinder or a drill will get in there and clean those CBT grooves up no problem. The one on the left is the finish work one, the coarse to the right will remove metal or dull an edge pretty quick. edit: both knives here were stripped and cleaned up by me this way.
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A good bunch of responses already :eek: :thumbup:

Big thanks all. Hmmm. I have been over that dilemma several times - do I keep it as is, or do I try and tidy it up a bit... I think I still want to touch it up, even if its just for the eye.

@AZTimT, I wasn't aware that scotchbrite can do that, I think I'll give that a go first off and see where it leaves me. I thought the dark spots were there to stay. Debarb... interesting to know the name of this.

I guess I'll dig this post up once I've touched up and see where I am with it.

Cheers


-UWon-
 
Yeah, I don't have consecutive before/after shots of my cgfbm per se, but whenever it gets crusty that is how I clean it up, it works very well. Starting fluid or brake cleaner works very well for the handle cleanup.
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You can get a ScotchBrite disc that is used with a hand drill

attachment.php



Then set the drill in a vise and put it on low speed, Now you have a 'bench grinder'. Wearing cut resistant gloves, you can clean up the blade on the wheel. That is how I do a ghetto satin.




 
resinguy said:
You can get a ScotchBrite disc that is used with a hand drill

attachment.php



Then set the drill in a vise and put it on low speed, Now you have a 'bench grinder'. Wearing cut resistant gloves, you can clean up the blade on the wheel. That is how I do a ghetto satin.




Click to expand...

Holy COW! Wow, that looks nice.

Finding a good scotchbrite pad in the UK seems to be a pain. I'll check the 3M one you have posted... that looks brilliant. Thanks for the tips :)


-UWon-
 
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