Orange G10 (with a twist)

TekSec

TekSec

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Dec 8, 2006
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Here is the latest rendition of my firesteel knife. I'm working with another BF member to resell these and this is the prototype for inspection before we do a production run. Changes include a set screw in the firesteel cap to allow the end user to change the rod if it wears out. The set screw also locks into a notch in the handle to hold the rod secure. Just twist a 1/4 turn clockwise to release the rod, 1/4 turn counterclockwise to lock it in. Let me know what you think and any criticism is welcome!!!

Blade: Flat ground 1/8” O-1, hand sanded to 400 grit
Heat treated by Peters’ Heat Treat to RC 59-60
Handle: Orange G-10 with removable firesteel (ferrocerium rod)
Pins: Stainless Steel
OAL: 8 ½”
Blade (Cutting Edge) Length: 4”

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Thank you! This is version 3. Learned some tricks from the other 2 like using an acrylic tube in the handle, how to drill the handle cleanly and getting the rod to secure other than by friction. Hopefully these will take off somewhat :)
 
My first thought was "how sharp is the exposed tang on top w/ the steel removed?" Looks like a pretty wicked 'claw' sticking out there. Is that going to stick you in the hand when striking the steel? Think safety in adverse conditions, cold, getting dark, scared, in a hurry to start a fire................and now you have a puncture wound in the heel of your hand? [just a thought]

Other than that, great idea and execution. And a very functional blade as well!
 
Deweyknives said:
My first thought was "how sharp is the exposed tang on top w/ the steel removed?" Looks like a pretty wicked 'claw' sticking out there. Is that going to stick you in the hand when striking the steel? Think safety in adverse conditions, cold, getting dark, scared, in a hurry to start a fire................and now you have a puncture wound in the heel of your hand? [just a thought]

Other than that, great idea and execution. And a very functional blade as well!
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Very valid point (no pun intended :D)! I hadn't thought about that but I did soften the edges (more for aesthetics than anything) but I'll keep that in mind on the production model. Hell, you may even be able to use it as a bottle opener! I hadn't tried that....yet :)

Thanks all for the kind words! Means a lot and keep those critiques and ideas coming!
 
I believe he is going to sell them for around $130 or $140 but that's up to him. I quoted him a bulk price and whatever he makes above and beyond is his call.
 
Put me down for one!
 
Wow! That's one of the coolest things I have seen in a long time! Great job! :thumbup: -Matt-
 
Thanks again all for all the compliments, ideas and critiques! Looking forward to having these up on the guys site soon and pre-orders taken for a 6 to 8 week delivery. I couldn't have even begun this venture without all the great people on this site.
 
I have one more ground and HT'd, gonna try to get it done by then but think I'm gonna use black micarta on it since I'm not a fan of the orange.
 
TekSec said:
Thank you! This is version 3. Learned some tricks from the other 2 like using an acrylic tube in the handle, how to drill the handle cleanly and getting the rod to secure other than by friction. Hopefully these will take off somewhat :)
Click to expand...

I don't know how the strength of the acrylic tube you are using compares to micarta. But I think you can get G-10 tubes pre made to the size and color you like. That might be something to think about, just to slightly increase the strength of the handle. Micarta or G-10 has a very high flex and tensile strength (especially g-10). You could even get the tubes a bit larger than the hole bored out and machine grooves down the lengths to lock on either side of the tangs. Heck, if you were ordering them, you might even just get a rod big enough to provide the handle size you want, drill it out for the rod and slip the whole thing on in one step, and shape the handle how you want. (that might be more g-10 machining than you want to do though). I saw some tubes, and rods of either g-10 or micarta a while ago and thought about that.

Some one else already mentioned rounding out the corners slightly on the two tang edges. You could also make the tang exposed just a bit more past the end cap on the ferro rod so that hammering the tang won't ding up the end cap (only done in an emergence of course).

I remember your earlier version and thinking what a smashing idea it was. Making the fit a locking one, and the ferro rod replaceable makes it just about perfect as far as I am concerned. A small hole drilled through the base of the metal ferro rod holder might allow for attaching a thin cord from the rod to the lanyard hole in the knife to keep the ferro rod from getting lost if you fumbled it while getting it in or out.
 
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Bigfattyt said:
A small hole drilled through the base of the metal ferro rod holder might allow for attaching a thin cord from the rod to the lanyard hole in the knife to keep the ferro rod from getting lost if you fumbled it while getting it in or out.
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Once again that's why I love you guys! I allowed for a lanyard hole in the butt but yet another fantastic input. As far as the micarta tube, it really provides no structural stability, but I may think about that. The acrylic did see a little fragile but once it's epoxied between the scales, it's not going anywhere. Have to look around and do a cost comparison. Thanks!
 
Eric , beautiful knife , love the design and the orange G-10 ( I've been into orange lately )
 
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