Ordered a Mora today.

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Nov 9, 2009
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After reading all the rave reviews about the 'knife-per-dollar' value of Mora knives, I finally ordered one! I didn't realize they made so many, but I ordered this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GAVOUU

Any of you guys have this particular knife? I may try another model in the future-----we'll see!!
 
One of the few I don't have but I know that one is well thought of. $7.50...Holy Smokes that a good price. I suppose I've seen them for $10 or $11 maybe. Honestly, you will probably get $75 worth of use out of that...or maybe I should say you'll get as much use out of that as you would just about any $75 knife. I mean, you'll see some flaws...the grind lines may or may not be perfectly straight...sometimes there is a little "chatter" in the polish...but for a user...It'll be great.

Mora sheaths are a little dicey on retention. With this plastic sheaths, I've got some double sided velcro tape (hooks on one side, loops on the other) that I wrap around about twice. You could go over a waterfall like that and not loose the knife but it is not very quick out of the sheath.

You will be pleased and you won't be bummed if you loose it.
 
I have one, as sort of a back up knife. As far as I can tell, it is the same design as the good ole #1 or #2 or whatever, except that it has the plastic handle and that big hand guard. Since it is a back up knife, I have yet to use it, but I sharpened it up very sharp, just like all the other moras that I have. I can get them sharper than any other knife due to the small angle of the bevel.

It seems to be very useful where you want a delicate sharp blade. Definitely smaller than some of the others. I think it is best suited for close up delicate tasks.

The hand guard would be very nice for some tasks, such as where you were doing some sort of stabbing and/or long up and down slicing, but I tend to think that it would get in the way for most tasks, such as whittling on wood or cleaning game. If you agree after trying it, no problem -- just take a hacksaw to the hand guard and it will be the same as the version without the hand guard.
 
gotten a few moras, not that model though, but......

the moras are all very similar in blade shape and sizes, different handle options, 12c27 or carbon steels and some lengths and grinds, etc, but all very, very similar.

i like the bushcraft forest and 2000 the best in stainless. wider blade and shape appeals to me. the 2000 is about the same except for the handle shape and sheath, etc. blade wise identical as far as i can tell.

on the carbon steel side.... the carbon steel companion and the triflex bushcraft are my other favorites. i usually grab between those four for yard use. they make it into the swamps with me from time to time, but i just got too many knives. all four have performed as everyone says they would. super tough, lightweight, good balance, and worth every penny paid. you won't be disappointed....and if you're like me at all, you'll wonder why you paid a whole lot more for other knives that don't perform any better or on some tasks as well as the moras.

put it to work when you get it and enjoy it.
 
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By the way, if you want to try something different, one that I really like is the 711 I think it is. The 911 is similar, with a handle that is designed to be more ergonomical. In case I am quoting the wrong model numbers, I'm trying to refer to the carbon steel versions with a black handle with red at the top and bottom of the handle. The one I have is the military green handle (711-MG?) The blade is longer and wider than the one in that 511 that you have.

I personally prefer the carbon steel verions, though I have a longer stainless version (it is actually the 5+ inch version of the stainless model that is equivalent to the 711) as a sort of camping kitchen knife (I want to say it is model 751?--it has blue trim instead of red). I also have the more standard length (4 or so inches) stainless version of the 711-MG ... can't remember the model number. Anyway, I like these models because they have a nice bit tough, somewhat rubbery handle. It feels very sturdy, and I love the way it fills my hand. I actually prefer the 711 type handle over the thinner, updated 911 handle.

Another thing about this series of models is that they have a longer tang than almost all of the other carbon steel moras. The handle and design feel like they could take more abuse than some of the others.

Finally, these models have the mora blade that is a little thicker--.1'' I think, so another reason I think they are built to be a little tougher than, say, a clipper. They still slice very well.

Go check them all out at ragweedforge dot com. That guy (Ragnar) knows his moras.
 
Thanks for the input!

One more question: I understand the grind is a little different on Moras. Would the normal Spyderco 'Sharpmaker' angles be fine to use with these knives? That's what I use for my day to day touch-ups on my EDC knives. I'll set up my Edge-Pro for any serious edge profiling when I need to.
 
Thanks for the input!

One more question: I understand the grind is a little different on Moras. Would the normal Spyderco 'Sharpmaker' angles be fine to use with these knives? That's what I use for my day to day touch-ups on my EDC knives. I'll set up my Edge-Pro for any serious edge profiling when I need to.

That's what I use on these knives.
 
Thanks for the input!

One more question: I understand the grind is a little different on Moras. Would the normal Spyderco 'Sharpmaker' angles be fine to use with these knives? That's what I use for my day to day touch-ups on my EDC knives. I'll set up my Edge-Pro for any serious edge profiling when I need to.

I use a sharpmaker for mine. I have a topq allround in carbon. It's ridiculously easy to sharpen and cuts like a laser. I wouldn't baton with it or anything but I've used it extensively for food prep and it's been awesome.
 
I would recommend keeping the scandi grind that it comes with. But either way, they are great knives.

How do you re-sharpen or touch up a scandinavian grind? Isn't that much more labor-intensive than a croc stick or Edge-Pro type system? Are you basically grinding the whole bevel that you see? (about 1/2" or so). Do you have to do that free hand? Thanks!
 
Yup! You sharpen the entire visible bevel on a Scandinavian-ground knife. You can feel very easily when the whole edge bevel is flat with the stone, so it's a pretty simple process. It takes a little longer than the conventional method, as you're removing a lot more metal. It's common to add a small microbevel to the edge after sharpening by making a few light passes on an extra fine stone with the bevel lifted just a hair. This gives an edge that's a little less prone towards rolling or chipping while still exhibiting most of the laser-like cutting ability of a true zero-ground scandi.
 
I love sharpening them on a big bench stone. I don't have a sharpmaker, but unless one of the angles that you can select on the sharpmaker matches up perfectly with the angle of the grind on the blade, you are going to have to hold it slightly off of 90 degrees in relation to the ground to make sure that you are grinding the whole bevel.

I find that I naturally put a little convex edge on it as I free-hand sharpen, so the actual angle at the edge is slightly greater than the angle of the scandi bevel. I would just try it first and see if you naturally do this as well before you specifically try to put a micro-bevel on it.
 
I use a sharpmaker for mine. I have a topq allround in carbon. It's ridiculously easy to sharpen and cuts like a laser. I wouldn't baton with it or anything but I've used it extensively for food prep and it's been awesome.

I have batoned with my 731 and it took it like a champ. They were 4-5 inch logs and the knife worked great for the blade size and thickness. It was still shaving sharp after a few logs. Some of the best bushcrafters out there. Like it was said above if you loose one you don"t have to worry because they are so affordable. i love moras
 
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