Ordered EdgePro - now what angle for 425MOD steel?

B

bbcmat

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Jan 10, 2006
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Soon I will rec my EdgePro sharpener - I have both a "..110.." folder and a 103 1988 model skinner - these are CM425MOD steel (I believe).

What is the smallest included angle I can sharpen this grade of steel to - without removing too much of the support for the edge. I do my best to be gentle with these blades and use them in a slicing movement rather than press cutting. I find thinner edges (stropped) glide easier, and would like a good starting point to bring these blades back to.

Up to now, these two knives have been sharpened with DMT hand hones - the 110 with a gap about the width of the blade, the 103 to the flat just to bottom of the spine (flat sharpened). Tune up with the red - finish with the green (edge forward into stone) and a few minutes on a hard strop (leather with polishing mat'l rubbed in glued to wood handle).

Thank you for any insight you may provide!!

MAT
 
Mat,
Not too sure how to answer this because my usual advice it to find an edge angle that suits your needs and stick with it. That older 110 may take a bunch of work before you get it to cooporate. As long as you don't go too thin, to the point that the steel wants to start chipping, you should be ok. We have found that 26 to 32 included is a great all around edge and leaves plenty of steel to support the edge. I sure would not go to less than 20 included but that is mostly just a gut feel, not anything based on scientific evidence.
Hope this helps,
 
Mat,Sounds like sound advice from Joe. :thumbup: Congratulations on your EdgePro! :cool:
With a little time invested,you'll be a sharpening pro. :D
 
For almost any stainless blade that is not exceptionally hard (maybe 57 or less), I would do 2 bevels for best performance. Go as low as 15 degrees per side, which will give you a thind blade near the edge bust most likely not hold up well. Fix that by doing a small bevel on the edge at a higher angle, as high as about 25 degrees per side.

The blade is already like this (very low bevel angle along the width of the blade, then a steeper angle at the edge). Just take it one more level.

You would actually preserve some of the steel by doing this in reverse order, but you can make the final edge bevel more consistant in thickness by doing it last.

Edit:
I don't know how thin the edge of the old 110 was, so maybe this isn't necessary.
 
Thank you for the advice - I need a reference point to experiment from - and my eyes just don't fit into that catagory.

MAT
 
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